breadloaf construction method

Canned Hams of all types and sizes...and Bread Boxes to go with that ham......

Postby john » Tue May 03, 2011 9:37 pm

I am not sure how tight you are willing to go with your radius, but if you are willing to go tighter you can run a router along the edges.

That is what I did on my standie.

I built the camper like normal but before fiberglassing the edges I hit them with the largest router bit I had. It softened the edges considerably.
Build I -- Scenic ---
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8121727@N04/
Goto the Tear Build file

Build II -- Scenic II ---
viewtopic.php?t=29603

Build III -- Scenic Solo---
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=50324

Travel Blog----Now without Political Commentary
http://polifrogblog.blogspot.com/2009/0 ... -2009.html

The Constitution was ratified, not an interpretation thereof...

Penomeli ikibobo
john
User avatar
john
500 Club
 
Posts: 663
Images: 261
Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2004 6:26 pm
Location: eden nc

Postby Wimperdink » Tue May 03, 2011 11:09 pm

GPW wrote:W, EXACTAMUNDO !!! :thumbsup: Guess it would only be practical if you were going to make a Bunch of them ... :roll: Now the ideal thing to do is make a mold and include some tabs for attachment coming out the sides/bottom , the whole corner slight raised to accommodate the roof and side material .. Install the corner then sheet over the edges ... :thinking:


That sounds difficult.... I would be more prone to tape the corner in place on the outside, Use fiberglass tape and epoxy from the underside, once dry, fill the seams outside with microballoons/epoxy then some lightweight 3 or 4 oz cloth over the top of the seams on the outside. It would smooth decently enough to make it seamless and still very strong.

If you really wanted little tabs that should be easy enough to make seperately and just epoxy them to the finished corner piece wherever you want.
Image You know a man is on the level if his bubble is in the middle.
User avatar
Wimperdink
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1058
Images: 33
Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:29 pm
Location: East TN

Postby GPW » Wed May 04, 2011 6:38 am

W, that would be easier , and just like the Old timers did it ... they worked it all out long ago ... (the pic ^)
There’s no place like Foam !
User avatar
GPW
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 14911
Images: 546
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:58 pm
Location: New Orleans
Top

Postby aggie79 » Wed May 04, 2011 12:07 pm

john wrote:I am not sure how tight you are willing to go with your radius, but if you are willing to go tighter you can run a router along the edges.

That is what I did on my standie.

I built the camper like normal but before fiberglassing the edges I hit them with the largest router bit I had. It softened the edges considerably.


John,

Your build was what got me to thinking about a standy in the first place. I've had it bookmarked for some time now. I really like your profile and dimensions. Please don't see surprised if what I end up doing looks very similar.

That is a good tip about the router. (I enjoyed your comments in your build about what would life be without routers. I now have four of them.) For the time being though, I am thinking about more-rounded edges - something approximating a 12" radius - or ellipse. Of course, this probably quadruples the construction time, and time is not what I have enough of.

I also like your dropped frame. Being garage-able is a goal, even though I haven't resolved my wife's only request which is to have a shower.

Thank you for sharing your build,
Tom
Tom (& Linda)
For build info on our former Silver Beatle teardrop:
Build Thread

93503
User avatar
aggie79
Super Duper Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 5405
Images: 686
Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 5:42 pm
Location: Watauga, Texas
Top

Postby Trackstriper » Wed May 04, 2011 1:23 pm

Tom, I don't know if you came across various sized "trailer ball corners" in your search. They should be readily available from trailer supply houses in various stock sizes. Here's one source for a steel corner:

http://totaltrailerparts.com/store/inde ... ts_id=3177

Sometimes it's a matter of whether you have more $$$ or more time available. If you wanted to make fiberglass corners you could purchase one of the steel corners and make a female mold, then make four home-built corners from your mold. I haven't seen one of these corners in person but I would guess they are fairly correct in terms of radius and having the 90 degree issue down pat. They do not look like they have a flange to screw or rivet to....looks like a weld-in-place type of corner. A flange would not be hard to engineer into a female mold though. Just some food for thought.
User avatar
Trackstriper
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 404
Images: 38
Joined: Fri Jan 26, 2007 6:05 pm
Location: Asheville, NC
Top

Postby GPW » Thu May 05, 2011 5:57 am

Track, that's a Super idea!!! .. one metal mold , make as many fiberglass ones as you need .. :thumbsup:
There’s no place like Foam !
User avatar
GPW
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 14911
Images: 546
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:58 pm
Location: New Orleans
Top

TTT Breadloaf Model

Postby pebo » Sun May 08, 2011 1:40 pm

Tom,
Here are the images of a TTT version of a breadloaf I drew to you thoughts, with a Westcraft back end and a American Homecrest Front. I think it looks pretty good, just a shorter loaf of bread...
Enjoy,

Peter

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
User avatar
pebo
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 24
Images: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:28 am
Location: Montrose, MI
Top

Postby TheOtherSean » Sun May 08, 2011 4:16 pm

Ooo, pretty design. Where can I find one? :lol:
User avatar
TheOtherSean
The 300 Club
 
Posts: 407
Images: 111
Joined: Sun May 11, 2008 9:42 pm
Location: Ohio
Top

Postby 48Rob » Sun May 08, 2011 5:35 pm

I like it too! :thumbsup:


Now, where to buy pre stamped corners...?

Rob
Waiting for "someday" will leave you on your deathbed wondering why you didn't just rearrange your priorities and enjoy the time you had, instead of waiting for a "better" time to come along...
User avatar
48Rob
Super Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 3882
Images: 4
Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2005 6:47 pm
Location: Central Illinois
Top

Postby aggie79 » Sun May 08, 2011 6:33 pm

Peter,

Those renderings are stunning! Thank you for putting those together.

I had tried to sketch a profile of a breadloaf with the Westcraft "back end" morphed onto the Homecrest "front end" using graph paper and pencil. I'm not sure my drawing would have an earned a single star in a first-grade art class.

From my crude sketch, the profile looked okay, but I couldn't visualize how it looked with the curves. With your Sketch-up model, I can now see it!

Thank you very much.
Sincerely,
Tom
Tom (& Linda)
For build info on our former Silver Beatle teardrop:
Build Thread

93503
User avatar
aggie79
Super Duper Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 5405
Images: 686
Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 5:42 pm
Location: Watauga, Texas
Top

Postby doug hodder » Sun May 08, 2011 9:45 pm

Well done! Doug
doug hodder
*Snoop Dougie Doug
 
Posts: 12625
Images: 562
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:20 pm
Top

Postby 2bits » Sun May 08, 2011 9:47 pm

Tom, that is a cool idea for your next trailer! I like the ball corners that are available, that makes it easy.
Thomas

Image
User avatar
2bits
2bit Member
 
Posts: 5130
Images: 8
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:04 pm
Location: Lake Tawakoni, TX
Top

Postby doug hodder » Sun May 08, 2011 10:33 pm

For me...what is tough is to make a pleasing/appropriate radius on the roof line, with a tall enough door, and still make it fit in the garage. I'm thinking a dormer with a raidus on the door will help on the height thing. I will have to swap wheels on it for in and out however. I do that now with the Nomad. I'm sort of reworking a design...not where I want it yet.

The real challenge I believe is to get it all trimmed out in a stained vintage appropriate wood on the interior. May not be important to others, but I'm shooting for a late 30's look. Epoxy, glass, bondo and paint on the exterior will take care of the exterior.

Since I don't build with any real plans...I'm thinking...get the exterior shell done and then figure out how to section the interior skin so it looks good. Then build out the interior. A front and rear full width cabinet could cover up the end upper corners, and the roof sides and end corners could be done up in 1/8" paneling that would do the bend. The galley and any cabinets ought to have some raidius on the corners for a vintage look.

I've had a chat with Andrew regarding the axle-less spindles and have sort of gotten some preliminary frame issues worked out. That will help on the interior height. It won't be an "off-roader" however. Doug
doug hodder
*Snoop Dougie Doug
 
Posts: 12625
Images: 562
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:20 pm
Top

Postby aggie79 » Mon May 09, 2011 8:54 am

doug hodder wrote:For me...what is tough is to make a pleasing/appropriate radius on the roof line, with a tall enough door, and still make it fit in the garage. I'm thinking a dormer with a raidus on the door will help on the height thing. I will have to swap wheels on it for in and out however. I do that now with the Nomad. I'm sort of reworking a design...not where I want it yet.


Doug,

I've been wrestling the door height issue too. My final design may end up not being garage-able for that reason (and trying to get a standing height shower inside.) The dormer is a good idea. I'm not sure if it was added later, but this Westcraft has a mini-dormer on the right door.

Image

If I don't have a dropped floor (which probably means it won't be garage-able), then at the entrance, I may incorporate a dropped internal footwell.

doug hodder wrote:The real challenge I believe is to get it all trimmed out in a stained vintage appropriate wood on the interior. May not be important to others, but I'm shooting for a late 30's look. Epoxy, glass, bondo and paint on the exterior will take care of the exterior.

Since I don't build with any real plans...I'm thinking...get the exterior shell done and then figure out how to section the interior skin so it looks good. Then build out the interior. A front and rear full width cabinet could cover up the end upper corners, and the roof sides and end corners could be done up in 1/8" paneling that would do the bend. The galley and any cabinets ought to have some raidius on the corners for a vintage look.


I've been thinking along those lines too. External shell first, then interior. While I love the blonde-shellaced birch finish, I'm thinking that a darker wood and/or darker stain would be better. For the wall-celing radius and the rounded cabinet corners, I have thought about using bendy-ply and then coming back with wood veneers (although I've never done anything like this.)

doug hodder wrote:I've had a chat with Andrew regarding the axle-less spindles and have sort of gotten some preliminary frame issues worked out. That will help on the interior height. It won't be an "off-roader" however. Doug


I'll be watching your frame design closely. If I have any chance of making this one garage-able, almost the entire floor will need to be dropped. I've considered using the axle-less spindles. My stumbling block is how to design the frame without cross-members and come up with a way to keep the spindles from rotating/twisting the frame. The other "wild-hair" thought I've had was to use a traditional drop axle, but with link bars and airbag springs, instead of leaf springs, so that I could "slam" the suspension to get the trailer out of the garage.

Take care, Tom
Tom (& Linda)
For build info on our former Silver Beatle teardrop:
Build Thread

93503
User avatar
aggie79
Super Duper Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 5405
Images: 686
Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 5:42 pm
Location: Watauga, Texas
Top

Postby 2bits » Mon May 09, 2011 10:13 am

So you will have two trailers in the garage and no cars? Sounds like me LOL
Thomas

Image
User avatar
2bits
2bit Member
 
Posts: 5130
Images: 8
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:04 pm
Location: Lake Tawakoni, TX
Top

PreviousNext

Return to Canned Hams & Bread Loaves

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests