Winterizing a teardrop

[dh]

I know its out of season, but with a new plumbing section, this seams like a natural topic to discuss, and possibly a first sticky. Personally, I have no idea other then there is somethin called camper antifreeze and it is pink. I also don't know why simply draining out the water from the tanks and piping wouldn't work.

[XpoNoobie]

Id just drain the tank. You could even make a air tool fitting to put onto your filler spout and blow out the water even more, just make sure the out spout is open

[Shadow Catcher]

There are many places that water can hide and that includes inside pipes and pumps and water heater and P-trap and faucets. A gallon of RV antifreeze is inexpensive and just good insurance, and (non toxic polypropylene glycol).
With MM #1 I drained the tanks, pulled the drain in the water heater (checking the cathode) and put on the bypass, water/antifreeze does not go into the water heater and does go into the rest of the system) then used the pump to run antifreeze through the rest of the system making sure it made it into the P trap and into the gray water tank.
the MSDS sheet for Prestone RV antifreeze is http://www.shamrockchicago.com/MSDSPrestRVAf.html
come de wintering drain and flush antifreeze open bypass on water heater and you are good to go.

[48Rob]

DH,

Simply draining the lines will work, if you design your piping system so that everything is pitched toward central drains (hot and cold) with no sags/low spots in the lines.
Draining the tank is also all that is needed for it.
As mentioned, the "P" traps also need to be drained.
You can buy traps fitted with a drain, if you want to go that route.

However, there is a strong chance a bit of water may stay in the pump, a little more in a low spot, etc.

Most people find that it is difficult at best using flexible tubing for their water lines to eliminate all the low spots, and even harder to run everything with a downhill slope to the central drains.

The "winterizing" process is really very simple, and only costs about $6.00 (2 gallons of non toxic antifreeze)

If you have a water heater, drain it and "bypass it" using the bypass valves.
Drain the fresh water tank.
Put the plug back in the empty water tank.
Pour 1 gallon of the pink RV antfreeze (foodfreeze, non toxic antifreeze) into the fresh water holding tank.
Allow the water pump to deliver the antifreeze to each faucet.
The anti freeze will "push" the remaining fresh water out of the piping.
Once the water turns pink, turn off the faucet and continue until all water appliances have been purged.
Don't forget the city water connection.
Open the bypass valves.
Turn off the power to the water pump.

You can open the drain on the fresh water tank and drain out any remaining antifreeze.

If you have a gray water tank, drain it now and leave the drain open.
Open the second bottle and pour 1-2 cups in each "P" trap/drain.
Wipe up any antifreeze in the sinks, etc.
Close the gray tank drain.

That's it.

Rob

[48Rob]

Mr. Cowboy,

Sometimes simple is better!

Rob

[queeg9k]

What about wintering for camping in the winter? Any Ideas how to keep things from freezing? Insulate everything, but would that be enough? or would it need heaters or something to keep my fresh water from freezing?

[Verna]

OK, some questions from a TTT noobie about opening up the plumbing for the summer.

No manual came with my SideKick, but I'm sure learning a bunch here.

I can tell there is pink anti-freeze from the water pump to the sink. I can't tell if there is any in the water tank.

If I hook the hose to the fresh water inlet on the outside, turn the inside faucet on, and then turn the pump on, will this be the correct method to get rid of the anti-freeze?

Afterwards, do I put bleach in the water tank just to sterilize it? And then drain the water tank after about 24 hours?

So do I have to worry about the pink anti-freeze as far as it "contaminating" the system, or me? I don't have a bottle of it right now to look at the precautions.

Thanks in advance for your help.

[bobhenry]

Tommy had it in the MSDS link above !

INHALATION: No adverse effects are expected, however, if irritation or
other symptoms develop, remove to fresh air. Seek medical attention if
symptoms persist.

SKIN CONTACT: Remove contaminated clothing and wash skin with soap and
water. Seek medical attention if irritation develops.

EYE CONTACT: Immediately flush with water, holding open eyelids, for
15 minutes. Seek medical attention if irritation persists.

INGESTION: If swallowed, get immediate medical advice by calling a
physician, poison control center or emergency room. If advice is not
available and a significant quantity has been swallowed, give 1 or 2
glasses of water or milk and induce vomiting. Take the victim and the
product container to the nearest emergency treatment center or
hospital. Do not attempt to induce vomiting or give anything by mouth
to an unconscious person.

NOTES TO PHYSICIAN: Following acute ingestion signs of toxicity are
unlikely. Ethanol treatment as in ethylene glycol poisoning is
inappropriate. There is no specific antidote. Treatment should be
directed at the control of symptoms and the clinical condition.
Monitor for acidosis and central nervous system effects.


So it ain't made with pepto bismol HUH ?

That takes care of you, now here is some more web fodder for your rv's plumbing.........

Now, let's deal with the plumbing! If you don't have fresh water available where your rig is stored, then you need to move it. We need to flush out the plumbing system, especially if RV antifreeze was used. One possibility is to take the rig to a local RV Park or campground and use their water and sewer hookups. Hook up your water hose and fill your fresh water tank. Run your water pump and open each faucet in the rig one at a time and allow water to flow for a minute or so. If you used antifreeze, let the water flow until all color and odor is gone. Don't forget the toilet and the shower! Remember to open your gray water dump valve before you get too carried away! Turn off the water pump and hook up your hose to the city water inlet. Run some more water through the system to get that last bit of antifreeze out, then unhook the hose again. Be sure not to un-bypass the water heater until you've flushed all the lines. To put your bypassed water heater back in service, reset the valves for normal operation and make sure that the drain plug is in or that the drain valve is closed. Now run the water pump and open a hot water faucet. Once the water heater tank is full, shut all faucets and wait until the pump turns off. Listen for a few minutes to make sure that the pump does not cycle again. If the pump cycles on and off repeatedly, it may indicate a leak somewhere in your fresh water plumbing. If a leak is suspected, take a flashlight and visually inspect all the plumbing under your sinks and see if you can spot any leaks. Look carefully in compartments and inside of cupboards and storage areas until you find the drip. Fix any leaks before continuing.

Now, let's sterilize your fresh water tank and plumbing. Mix about a cup of plain household bleach in a gallon of water. Pour this mixture into your fresh water tank and top it off with the hose. Turn on the water pump and run each faucet until you can plainly smell the chlorine. Top off the fresh water tank again and let the system set for at least a few hours, longer is better. Then, drain the fresh water tank and refill with clean water. Flush the system out by running the clean water through each faucet again. Use lots of water, until the chlorine smell is gone.

This procedure will usually result in clean, odor free water in your RV. If you have problems with lingering antifreeze taste or chlorine odor, you can re-flush the system using I cup of baking soda dissolved into 1 gallon of water and follow the same procedure as above.

Make me kinda like old "slow" I just take in the 32 cup coffee maker ( My redneck hot water heater) and my 4 gallon blue water totin' jug and I am good to 40 below.

[Verna]

Thanks, Bob Henry, for your answer. It worked. All the pink is gone.

I camped at Hardin Ridge at Monroe Reservoir earlier this week and I was able to use water from the tank. Much easier than filling the 2.5 gallon water jug and taking it inside the trailer.

[8ball_99]

What about wintering for camping in the winter? Any Ideas how to keep things from freezing? Insulate everything, but would that be enough? or would it need heaters or something to keep my fresh water from freezing?

Insulate everything.. You also need to heat the trailer while camping. Be prepared to winterize it when you get home or even before you head out. The above instructions covers it pretty well. Its very easy. We camp in the winter and its pretty common for us to be in the trailer with temps into the teens outside.. If you have a hotwater heater they sell a quick drain valve so you don't need to a socket to drain the tank. That plus a hot water by pass makes it very simply to winterize it. I did not have holding tank heaters on my old trailer and so far I don't on the new one either so I just pour a little of the RV antifreeze down the drain to help keep the tanks from freezing.