by KCStudly » Sat May 23, 2020 6:27 pm
Off topic, but progressive, IMO.
Went to Mecca today. Had been up there a few times recently trying to get the black Jeep ready to sell (dragging my feet, I know).
Anyway, spent a few minutes scraping rust rings off of the table saw table with a razor blade (someone had been putting sweaty drinks down there), and then scrubbed with an abrasive pad. Finished with furniture wax.
Didn't actually work on the camper, but started getting back into the "habit" by working on a tenoning fixture to prep that pool cue I've been working on for a new ferrule tip. Since I don't have a wood lathe big enough (or even at all, really), and without going to the trouble to buy or make tapered collets when using Karl's CNC lathe to install the take-down joint... making a Sneaky Pete, there is a disparity between the typical "free form" turning used in pool cue work and the accuracy I seek. In other words, when we put the center joint in the once one piece cue on Karl's lathe using rubber isolators between the cue and chuck, it wandered off center a little. Cue may have had a little warp in it anyway, so, whatever. It had been straight before riding around in my car.
Anyway, I decided that I could use the table saw or router table, with a jig, to cut a new tenon in the tip of the cue to accept a new ferrule. The tenon needs to have a square shoulder and cylindrical tenon sized true to the ID of the 5/16 nominal ID plastic ferrule.
The trick is compensating for the taper of the cue shaft. So I prepped a flat piece of 1x5+ plank (squared it up on the table saw and planed the rough side flat... had to remove rust and wax my hand planes in the same manner as the table saw table; 4 years of lack of use was not kind to them), traced the full taper of the shaft laid against one long edge of the plank, divided the taper in half over the length of the plank, and screwed a fence down at half of the taper (i.e. squaring the shaft centerline parallel to the plank edge, 90 deg to the saw fence). That took care of the taper from 90 degree from the saw fence in the horizontal plane.
I picked out a scrap that could be fit to the groove in the table saw table, hand planed that to a snug fit with the groove and thinned it a bit so it was not proud of the table surface when set in the groove. The work bench doesn't have clamp dogs built in, but I was able to clamp thin scraps down that held the work from sliding and allowed the planes to run off the end without the plane striking the clamps.
Half the taper over the 19 inch long plank (long enough to utilize all of the outboard side of the table saw top, but shorter than the shaft length, allowing me to grasp and turn the joint end of the shaft) was 3/32 of an inch (0.094) I also needed to shim the shaft up at the tip this amount so that the shaft centerline would be square to the fence in the vertical plane. I had a Popsicle (stir) stick that was about .085 thick. I figured over 19 inches this would be good, since I would rather have a slightly under cut tenon where the OD was tight, rather than an over square tenon where the glue gap between the shoulder and ferrule was open. So I glued a small length of the Popsicle stick down to the bed of the plank at the saw fence end.
I know, this would be easier to understand with pictures, so I might get back into the swing of that tomorrow, but we are off topic, so...
I am trying to get back into the build process, so... we shall see.
I made a couple of feather boards to hold the shaft tight to the fence and shim, and still allow me to rotate the shaft into the saw blade, and started to fit those. Had to dissect the rubberized wood glue out of the nozzle of my neglected TB2 bottle, but was able to glue the Popsicle shim down. One of the feather boards split when I screwed it down to the fixture using flat head screw, so I glued that back together and will screw it down with flanged pocket hole screws when I try again (eliminating the wedge action of the flat head screw).
That's where I left off. Made saw dust and plane shavings, and got wood glue on my fingers today, so that's a step in the right direction.
Peace,
KC
My Build:
The Poet Creek Express Hybrid Foamie
Poet Creek Or Bust
Engineering the TLAR way - "That Looks About Right"
TnTTT ORIGINAL 200A LANTERN CLUB = "The 200A Gang"Green Lantern Corpsmen
