Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Looks like 1/2" as local big box store has it for $2.18 and 3/4 is $4.33 for 10 foot sticks.
After thinking about it I may be able to cut the foam at an angle and as starleen2 suggested, wedge it in between the ribs and runners to get the proper set back. Don't think I want but an eight of an inch or so. Gonna have to play with it and see. Would rather use the material I have instead of buying thinner foam.

Got home and though I didn't really feel up to it, went out and did a bit of tearing down on the frame. Got the floor and tail gate off. Will work on removing the railings next. Did a bit of figuring and if I use railings they need to be in the 16 to 18 inch range. These are 8" so need to be removed and used as parts.

Sorry for the blurry pictures, took them just before dark and the camera doesn't like that time of day.

Stripped of floor and tailgate. Side rails are next to go.


Fenders should be usable with a little work.


Looks like the springs have been replaced before. Gonna have to take them off/apart and see what all will need to be redone/replaced.


More as I get to it.

Looks like you are making progress. I was looking at the pic of the trailer frame. With the integrated side rails it looks very strong as it is. Why not just stack the needed additional rail height on top of the existing structure. That way you don't violate the integrity of what you already have. Probably less work to just extend the rails as well.

squatch wrote:Looks like you are making progress. I was looking at the pic of the trailer frame. With the integrated side rails it looks very strong as it is. Why not just stack the needed additional rail height on top of the existing structure. That way you don't violate the integrity of what you already have. Probably less work to just extend the rails as well.

After going out and looking at it again this morning I'm gonna have to agree with you. I was wanting to get 48" X 96" clear floor area which with the rails in place the way they are I don't have. The area is 46" X 95", but I can notch the plywood for the floor out and make it work without a lot of trouble.

Also am now thinking about building storage boxes under the side seating/work areas outside of and above the existing rails to bring the body width out to the 76"/78" point. Not sure if these will be inside access, outside access, or a combination of both.

With an upper inside width of 6' to 6'2" I can turn the bed sideways and have a much wider table/seating area (along the lines of the one designed by Tinksdad) and only take up about half of the trailer length.

Hoping to get some time this weekend to get the axle and springs off, frame cleaned up and at least primer put on. Will see what things look like then. After all it is a work in progress and apt to change drastically...

I was looking at the design picture that you posted and is that a leveling stand of some sort (top picture lower left corner) as it appears to have adjustment holes or is this setup the same way as a camper on the back of a truck is

sorry about the side track never learn if you don't ask

depatty wrote:With an upper inside width of 6' to 6'2" I can turn the bed sideways and have a much wider table/seating area (along the lines of the one designed by Tinksdad) and only take up about half of the trailer length.

That's one thing I considered when playing around with the design. At the time I was concerned that the tires on a 4' wide trailer may not give a wide enough stance for towing. Don't know if I am explaining it right; but with the amount that would extend past the tires, I didn't want to end up with a trailer that would be "tippy" going around curves/corners. Going back and looking at some of Starleen's builds (all on 4' wide) I don't think it's as much of a concern as I originally feared. The center of gravity should be sufficiently low enough to compensate for the width. The extra foot +/- floorspace in the galley area that you would gain is a definite benefit. That is something "she who camps with me" would appreciate.

Back to the drawing board.

droid_ca wrote:I was looking at the design picture that you posted and is that a leveling stand of some sort (top picture lower left corner) as it appears to have adjustment holes or is this setup the same way as a camper on the back of a truck is

sorry about the side track never learn if you don't ask

Not a problem. The picture was taken from http://www.mikenchell.com/VintagePlans/connestogawagon.pdf under Vintage Plans http://www.mikenchell.com/VintagePlans/vintageplans.html but if you're talking about what I think you are then yes, it's a support/leveling stand. Below is a closeup of that section.



Inexpensive way to support a camper.

HTH

Those Old Timers were very creative with the limited materials available at the time ....

You guys seen some of the Wagon sites ??? http://www.google.com/search?client=saf ... 8&oe=UTF-8
Lots of cool old stuff ....
Was checking out wagon bows... for the FoamStream ... It would seem those hardwood bows provided Most of the roof strength ... Covered with foam instead of canvas , should be as solid as a rock ... (STRONG)

Hi depatty,

Here's a link I came across that may have items of interest or
inspiration for your build.

http://conestogawagons.wordpress.com/

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

Hi depatty,

I just finished looking through the link I put in the prior posting.
[Found it while Image Googling 'Conestoga Wagons'.]

I noticed that they are distinctively different than what we think
of as a "covered wagon". The Conestoga's have a definitely
forward and rearward leaning of the roof/bows and a definite body bow
in the side profile with the center of the body being lower
than the ends. [Trivia: I heard from a museum docent once, that
they were built that way to help keep the cargo in the wagon bed.]
This all gives them a distinctive look, which I think is sharp, and it makes
them look like they are almost in motion, while standing still.

Just a suggestion:

If you could incorporate the forward and rearward leaning roof ends
and have the body [by using a skirt shaped to the curve] and have the
roof line curve as well, you could have a seriously unique design.
You could apply a curve to the front of the body, side to side
by having appropriate Bow [as in Bow and Arrows] shaped horizontal ribs
[cut to the appropriate lengths] applied between the two sides of the front
roof structural bow. You could have one or more vertical straight or
Bow-curved verticals to help locate the horizontals if you wanted also.
This should result in a "shovel front" curve at the front. How acute you'd
want to make it would be up to you. This should be easily achievable
[easy to say!] using the welded conduit with foam piece infill you were
talking about.

'Just thought I'd throw this out there. Have fun designing and building.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

Dave , the more I look at the pic of your trailer and the Conestoga wagon plan , I can really see the Logic of using that trailer with that style wagon /trailer ... I can see where it's possible to build the wagon part and just slide it onto your trailer , the upper metal framing becoming supports for the overlapped sides of the cabin ... allowing you a much wider trailer on the outside ... and no worries of having to make wheel wells in the floor ...

depatty just wondering how this project is going

Yeah Really !!! Curious minds want to know !!!

he must be camping