#1

Canvas covered foamies (Thrifty Alternatives...)

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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Sun Dec 07, 2014 7:27 pm

A shot of the vent test fitted outside........

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Vent outside
DSCF3325 s.jpg (102.76 KiB) Viewed 1503 times


and inside.

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Vent inside
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George.

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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Sun Dec 07, 2014 7:39 pm

So now for a secret....... :twisted:

I priced a queen size piece of high density foam for the bed. I was quoted $250.00 :? . Well I was not going to pay that for a piece of foam so I found these floor cushioning sheets at HF. They come in a package of 4 which when attached to each other covers 16 square feet. They are normally about $16.00 but go on sale for $7.49 quite often. I have been picking them up here and there when I saw them on sale. So right now I have 5 packages placed down that are stacked 3 high. They are about 1/2' thick so right now they are 1 1/2" thick and it is quite comfortable. Going to buy a couple more sets to bring it up to the same height as the fenders. Even at that I am still under $60.00. I think that is hard to beat for high density foam. :thumbsup:

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Foam mattress #2
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Foam mattress
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George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
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Re: #1

Postby Wolffarmer » Sun Dec 07, 2014 7:41 pm

Good idea there.

Build is looking great

Randy
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Re: #1

Postby rowerwet » Mon Dec 08, 2014 10:11 am

ghcoe wrote:So now for a secret....... :twisted:

I priced a queen size piece of high density foam for the bed. I was quoted $250.00 :? . Well I was not going to pay that for a piece of foam so I found these floor cushioning sheets at HF. They come in a package of 4 which when attached to each other covers 16 square feet. They are normally about $16.00 but go on sale for $7.49 quite often. I have been picking them up here and there when I saw them on sale. So right now I have 5 packages placed down that are stacked 3 high. They are about 1/2' thick so right now they are 1 1/2" thick and it is quite comfortable. Going to buy a couple more sets to bring it up to the same height as the fenders. Even at that I am still under $60.00. I think that is hard to beat for high density foam. :thumbsup:

DSCF3334 s.jpg


DSCF3331 s.jpg
until you sleep on it for a few nights you can't be sure it is comfortable, we ended up with a mattress made of four mattress toppers after finding out 1 topper over firm foam was uncomfortable, love how it feels now.
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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:28 pm

I use to sleep on just a single sheet of some similar foam. It was fine for me then so hope 3 more layers makes up for a few aged bones. The real test is the wife, but she does like a fairly firm mattress. I do have some other options if it does turn out to be too firm.
George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
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Re: #1

Postby GPW » Tue Dec 09, 2014 7:52 am

Those prices on sleeping foams are just too darn high ... :o Ridiculous markups just because it’s for sleeping on .. :frightened: :roll: That’s the next thing the "Foam per Buck Club" needs to address... Thrifty (yet comfortable) sleep gear ... :thinking:
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Re: #1

Postby kudzu » Wed Dec 10, 2014 9:20 am

It's looking good with the windows in. Using the foam squares on the floor makes a lot of sense, though I'd need a couple inches of soft foam on top to be comfortable. The closed cell foam will help insulate the floor. You'll have your own soundproof booth, also.
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Re: #1

Postby lthomas987 » Thu Dec 11, 2014 12:28 pm

I put down one layer of those grey foam mats in mine. I figure it would let me get a thinner (aka cheaper) foam queen mattress or alternately use an air bed (which I already own for the ultimate in thrifty) on top but if I were to sink in at least it would be softer underneath than OSB. I am excited to hear about how your 3 layers work out.
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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:11 pm

lthomas987 wrote:I put down one layer of those grey foam mats in mine. I figure it would let me get a thinner (aka cheaper) foam queen mattress or alternately use an air bed (which I already own for the ultimate in thrifty) on top but if I were to sink in at least it would be softer underneath than OSB. I am excited to hear about how your 3 layers work out.


Well Friday I was inside the foamie trying to figure out how I am going to run the wiring. I laid down on the foam as I looked at how to channel the roof and I was out. :goodnight:
George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:32 am

Worked on getting my hard points installed for the roof vent yesterday. Using flashing again to make a self supporting channel that will allow a hard point inside and outside for vent attachment.

I will be using 2"X2" flashing for this application.

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2"X2" flashing
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The vent is designed for a 14"X14" cutout.

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Vent cutout
DSCF3338 s.jpg (83.41 KiB) Viewed 1305 times


First I clean off the flashing with Alcohol to make sure there are no oils that could hamper paint or glue grip. I wear gloves to help keep oils off the flashing from my skin.

DSCF3340 s.jpg
Alcohol and gloves
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George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:36 am

Since the vent is designed for a 14"X14" cutout I will mark on my flashing every 14" to make a square that will be 14"X14" when finished.

DSCF3343 s.jpg
14" mark
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Now I make a cut line on each mark I made using a small square. The square will make sure that the cut lines are straight.

DSCF3344 s.jpg
Marking the cut line
DSCF3344 s.jpg (79.38 KiB) Viewed 1304 times


On the last mark I will make two cut lines to finish the square.

DSCF3345 s.jpg
The finished cut line
DSCF3345 s.jpg (77.64 KiB) Viewed 1304 times
George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:49 am

Now I take my straight cut sheet metal shears and make cuts on the cut lines.

DSCF3346 s.jpg
Cutting on the cut lines
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Now that I made the cuts I need to make the bends. I want straight bends so I made this simple sheet metal sheet metal break. I used some scrap 1/4" flooring I had laying around. You could use just about any anything as long as it is cut straight for the bend. I clamped the material I had to both sides of the flashing making sure that the edges were where exactly opposite of the cuts I just made. Then I used another scrap piece and butted it up to the wood I just clamped on the flashing opposite of the direction I want to make the bend. Using this piece to apply leverage at the bend location I bent the flashing over.

DSCF3347 s.jpg
Simple sheet metal break
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Unless you are really strong you will not get a nice crisp corner, but it will be close. :(

DSCF3349 s.jpg
Not perfect
DSCF3349 s.jpg (108.6 KiB) Viewed 1301 times
George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:54 am

To make a nice crisp corner take a hammer and just lightly tap the flashing to the material you used as a break. :)

DSCF3351 s.jpg
Tapping to a crisp corner
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When done you should have something like this. :thumbsup:

DSCF3355 s.jpg
Crisp corner
DSCF3355 s.jpg (91.86 KiB) Viewed 1294 times


Once all the cutting and bending is done it should look like this.

DSCF3354 s.jpg
Finished square
DSCF3354 s.jpg (102.55 KiB) Viewed 1294 times
George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Sun Dec 14, 2014 12:07 pm

It is very important to make sure that the opening is large enough for the flashing to fit without binding. If there is a place where the foam is a tight fit to the flashing it could cause the flashing to lift or have weird wrinkles that will be hard to work with. It is better to have the opening too large than too small.

DSCF3356 s.jpg
Checking the opening
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Now to drop in the top portion of the 14"X14" hard point.

DSCF3362 s.jpg
Top flashing fitted
DSCF3362 s.jpg (90.07 KiB) Viewed 1290 times


For the inside I will make two angled pieces rather than making a complete square. The reason is because I do not have the equipment to make a perfect square that would fit just inside the top square. By making two angled pieces you can adjust the arm lengths on each side if need be and you can get the bent corners to seat nicely against the top pieces corners. When these pieces are pop riveted together this will make it so that the top and bottom pieces will not distort once riveted together. Believe me this will save a lot of headaches do to metal distortion and still look nice.

First I need to make the mark for the cut. I will make the cut slightly shorter than 14". I will allow a 1/16" allowance on the first cut and a 1/8" cut for the end cut of the angle.

DSCF3363 s.jpg
Shorter cuts
DSCF3363 s.jpg (92.76 KiB) Viewed 1290 times
George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Sun Dec 14, 2014 12:16 pm

Once the cuts are cut and the bends are bent it is time for a test fit. In this case a perfect fit first time. If one end was too long to fit I would take my sander and sand the edge back some till it fit. You will need to sand or grind back the metal because it is a bear to try and cut small pieces with the metal shears.

DSCF3364 s.jpg
Test fit
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Do the same with the other angled piece and test fit. If it fits you now have the inside hard point.

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Test fit #2
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Now to try the vent. All looks good. :thumbsup:

DSCF3371 s.jpg
Vent test fit
DSCF3371 s.jpg (93.2 KiB) Viewed 1290 times
George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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