#1

[ghcoe]

Thanks Mary.

[tpstorey]

George, fantastic work. This will be my goto build when I start mine.

How do you get the seam flaps to lay down so nicely? It seems you have let the glue dry so isn't it stiff and hard to form as needed as you fold it down...especially on curves?

[ghcoe]

George, fantastic work. This will be my goto build when I start mine.

How do you get the seam flaps to lay down so nicely? It seems you have let the glue dry so isn't it stiff and hard to form as needed as you fold it down...especially on curves?

I am using a 50/50 mix of TBII with water for everything I have done so far. When I am sizing for the edges I just apply the glue past the body contact and into the area that I will be cutting later. Usually this is only coating one side of the canvas, but penetrates far enough that the canvas cuts nice with no loose strings. It is a bit stiff when dry and works great for the cutting. Once I begin to fold over the edge I hit the canvas with a good amount of water with a spray bottle. The water seems makes the canvas and glue workable for the edges and the curves. It will try to wrinkle on the curve and the roller is the best tool for working them out. I run the roller along the edge at a angle to create a break point along the edge. Then I will roll a small portion of the canvas down every few inches. The idea is to not "push" the canvas along the edge which will lead to stretching and binding of the canvas, especially along the curves. Just work with the canvas with the roller on the curves and the bunching will work out. I really did not have any trouble at all working them out on my build.

Now I have not worked on the tighter radius at the hatch yet so it may be a different story. It is a lot tighter radius than the front. Also, if you have a larger overlap it would probably be more difficult. My overlaps are 1" and I feel I could have gone 2" with that radius and still would have been fine. I like the looks of the 1" overlap.

Good luck and thanks for the complement. (root beer)

[ghcoe]

Well I hope this will be the year to finish this project. Sold all my other trailers last year so I need to get this thing done or I will be sleeping on the ground again.

Just ordered in some hinges, taillight converter, power panel, and hatch latches. Hope to have a week off soon so maybe I can get this thing knocked out.

[GPW]

[KCStudly]

With a shopping list like that you should be well motivated to get going again. Your almost done!

[ghcoe]

Most of my items have arrived and I have all next week off so hope to get some work done. Weather is a bit of a issue though so cross the fingers.

On another note I ordered my door hinges from this company. I got the standard 72" hinges for 10.95 each. Shipping was $27.00 for four. I just got them and wow they are a nice sturdy hinge.

http://truck-hardware.orrorr.com/viewit ... ous-hinges?

[ghcoe]

Well I had to rethink how I was going to frame the door. My earlier attempt did not allow for any adjustments if needed. So I rethought the approach and figured I would attach the hinge side first. That way I can attach the hinge and then make adjustment cuts to the other 3 sides if needed. So now I am attaching two pieces of 1"x1" flashing, one to each side of the hinge side of the door. This allows the flashing to overlap, but not bind on each other. This was another problem I had with the first attempt with 1"x2" flashing. Usually it is not a problem, with the door though, it made the edges too thick to fit in the door opening properly. This caused the door to protrude out farther than I liked.

Gluing the hinge support #1

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First piece glued

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Gluing the second piece

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[ghcoe]

Started to fair the hatch. Got nearly done when I realized I had not installed the last of the hard edges. This is what happens when you go long periods without working on your foamie. So stopped to install hard edges. Only had one made so I had to make the other one. Luckily I did have beading on hand so I must have known I needed it at some point.

Installing the hatch hard edge

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Fully glued

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Have to wait for the caulking to dry and then I need to finish up the fairing and then it should be ready to install.

[KCStudly]

Coming right along now.

[ghcoe]

Rain and wind stopped progress Tuesday, but Wednesday turned out to be great. Made some good progress.

Had to cut the hinges to fit and drill holes for the pop rivets.

Drilling the holes

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Had to temporarily pop rivet the hinge to the door and then drill out rivets so I could pop rivet the hinge to the door frame.

Drilling door frame for rivets

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Both attached

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This allowed me to get the door hung properly the first time.

[ghcoe]

Once I was able to get the door installed I was able to check for fit. Top and bottom of door was fine but the latch side was a bit tight at the bottom.

Door installed

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A couple more shots of the hinge with door open and closed.

Door open

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Door closed

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[ghcoe]

So now that the door was installed I marked on the inside the door frame contact area. This allowed me to measure out for a cut line for the latch side edge. Drilling out the rivets again I removed the door and cut the latch side edge back even.

Marking the inside door frame

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Once I made the cut now I installed the latch side hard edge and reinstalled door.

Latch side hard point

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[ghcoe]

Also worked on some of the wiring prep. Made cutouts for outlets and wire paths.

Cut marks

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Cutout

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Outlet installed

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[ghcoe]

Wire channels for galley and back bulkhead.