Web Sites w/ Foam Info For Tools, Techniques, Sources Etc..

[hwff]

I would rule out Foam Coat by itself, or even with Boost, as compared with Foam Coat with Bounce, or Styroplast.

Again, if you can afford it, Styroplast will give you everything you are asking for:

• Strength
• Ultra Lightness
• Just the right amount of flexibility so it won't crack but also won't dent easily
• Not only water resistant, but resistant to most chemicals including gas
• Won't crack in the sun even if not painted
• Can be made very smooth even when brushed on (it is somewhat sandable too)
• Can go on thick or thin and can be coated over itself (note that it has to be primered unless you paint it within a few hours after it sets up)
• Bonds to most surfaces even if they are not porous.
• You don't need to use mesh with it, but you can if you want it to be incredibly durable
• The toxic component in Styroplast is the same toxic component in super glue
• After it dries (after approximately 2 hours) there are no VOCs

It is fairly costly, but it is the final encapsulant - much less expensive than a paint job on a car, but it is the actual shell and finish.

Foam Coat with Bounce is much more rubbery and a bit heavier than Styroplast. You actually start with the Bounce, which is $70 per gallon, and add Foam Coat until you get the consistency you desire. It will probably be 80% Bounce. If you add water in place of Bounce, the coating will lose much of its rubberiness, but will still be quite crack and chip resistant - and save $ if that is important. It's difficult to describe the qualities. The white, beaded EPS foam has a memory, so if you press on it, it will spring back to an extent. That being said, if you press it hard enough, the foam will cave in under the coating and the dent will be permanent. This stuff cannot be sanded, so it is difficult to get a perfectly smooth finish.

I believe Foam Coat by itself will be too heavy and brittle for your foamies.

[atahoekid]

Thanks for that info Chelsea... I'm assuming you consider the foam coat with boost a bit too brittle for the application.

[hwff]

Thanks for that info Chelsea... I'm assuming you consider the foam coat with boost a bit too brittle for the application.

Yes. The Bounce/Foam Coat and Styroplast would definitely be the two options we'd recommend.

[linuxmanxxx]

So that being said, how much styroplast would be needed to coat roughly 180 square ft and what kind of price break could be given for ordering that much styroplast at a time?

[bonnie]

If I'm understanding the foamcoat/bounce method, we would have to have the foamie completely assembled and this would be the final finish? In other words, no applying the finish in sections at different time?

Hmmmm.

[hwff]

The coverage of Styroplast listed here is per gallon and depends on the thickness:

1/32" thick, 51.3 sq/ft
1/16" thick, 25.6 sq/ft
1/8" thick, 12.8 sq/ft
1/4" thick, 6.4 sq/ft

We do often offer discounts for clubs and groups like this, so if this product turns out to be something that is going to work for your application and some of you want to order some, we can talk about discounts then.

Please let me know if you have any other questions!

[atahoekid]

If I'm understanding the foamcoat/bounce method, we would have to have the foamie completely assembled and this would be the final finish? In other words, no applying the finish in sections at different time?

Hmmmm.

For the walls, I'm thinking that I would lay each panel flat on my sawhorses and coat the foam with excess mesh hanging over the edge. I'll set the walls up, place the roof and nose, joining them to the walls and then I'll finish the top and nose in place after bringing the extra mesh over the edge of those pieces. Did that explanation make sense to you? So I'm kinda doing half in place, and half prior to setting in place.

[linuxmanxxx]

So then using the thinnest coat, it would take between 3 and 4 gallons to cover an average size camper and 6 or so people on here right now at this time in planning stages to build a foam camper.

So 3 gallons is $255 no shipping and 4 gallons is $340 no shipping.

So assuming you guys give us a code that generates a most generous 15% then the price would be $216.75 and $289.

Can you give us a ballpark Louella how much the total cost of your tb2 and canvas was for covering your foamy and any others that have finished out the exterior?

For those of you worried about the respirator, harbor freight has one that would easily work for applying this stuff for 30 or 40 bucks right next to the paper masks.

Just want some base retail numbers on things so that we can get an idea on how much upgrade cost the styroplast would actually be.

[atahoekid]

Steve and Bonnie

I'm not sure where the idea that a respirator is required came from but according to hwff there are no voc's emitted during curing although they do recommend the use of proper ventilation during application. There's no real harm in using one if used properly, however, just realize that if you have respiratory difficulties, (asthma, emphysema, etc.) using a respirator may be a problem for you.

[linuxmanxxx]

The directions and data sheet say it needs to be applied with a respirator as it has the same fumes released from super glue. This is about the styroplast not the foam coat.
This is pasted from their site from the application instructions for styroplast instructions.

TOXICITY:
ISO component contains polymeric isocyanate requiring fresh air supply respirator, gloves, and protective clothing during application.

[hwff]

If I'm understanding the foamcoat/bounce method, we would have to have the foamie completely assembled and this would be the final finish? In other words, no applying the finish in sections at different time?

Hmmmm.

Applying it in sections would be easiest, as the Foam Coat/Bounce only has a 20-30 minute work time before it starts to set up. If you will have help applying it, you can cover more area quicker. As far as it being assembled or not assembled - that's up to you. You can achieve a smoother finish if you are able to lay the pieces flat and allow them to dry flat.

[swampjeep]

If I'm understanding the foamcoat/bounce method, we would have to have the foamie completely assembled and this would be the final finish? In other words, no applying the finish in sections at different time?

Hmmmm.

Applying it in sections would be easiest, as the Foam Coat/Bounce only has a 20-30 minute work time before it starts to set up. If you will have help applying it, you can cover more area quicker. As far as it being assembled or not assembled - that's up to you. You can achieve a smoother finish if you are able to lay the pieces flat and allow them to dry flat.

if done in sections like this, will it still appear as if done all at once, or will you see a witness line at the edges of the sections?

[linuxmanxxx]

Swamp I don't see this working worth a darn doing it before assembly due to then you have foamcoat in your glue areas and you can't guarantee water tightness at all. Glen was able to flip his all over the place after assembled due to how light the foam is so I'd recommend just flipping it and doing sections till it is covered completely. Water sealing seems too big a tradeoff for just working in flat piece sections for a smoother finish. I really think someone with a mock small camper model of foam should try coating with this and see how thick it can be laid on and ease of finish.

[atahoekid]

Swamp I don't see this working worth a darn doing it before assembly due to then you have foamcoat in your glue areas and you can't guarantee water tightness at all.

Maybe you and I are thinking differently about this but I am keeping the bonding edge (top edge) of the assembled wall free from styroplast or other Foam Coat then standing it up into place and gluing the roof to that edge and then coating that. I don't see the coating interfering with the glue or vice versa.

Are you thinking about a different means of assembly? Am I missing something obvious or maybe not so obvious? You're a man who seems to know what he's doing so I'm thinking I'm all screwed up....

[GPW]

All this about waterproofing ... waterproofing what? Ya’ know , foam really doesn’t mind getting wet (they use it for dock flotation eh ) ... You could leave it Bare ... probably last for many years unattended... Wouldn’t be pretty , or strong unless you made it with thicker foam , but you could leave it in the rain with no problem ... and if you glued it up solid (Foam Fusion) , you’d be nice and dry inside ... Just a thought ...