Thrifty Alternatives ..Building Foam Campers

[cpowell243]

Foamies,
I am building my first foamie and plan to use a Winter Warrior design with roof that rises to 6' when extended. Was hoping to post photos of my cardboard model and diagrams, but can't seem to figure out how to attach these to a message. Can anyone out there help me? Could really use some feedback on my design.
Th - Charlie in Wyoming

[Wobbly Wheels]

If you poke around the forum, there's a thread somewhere all about how to get pics up and working.
I upload them to photobucket and use the "Img" at the top of the editor window where you type your post.
You'd need to set up a photobucket account to do that.

[KCStudly]

In the header at the top, pull down "Forum Problems" and select "Help With Photos".

[cpowell243]

Thanks KCStudly,
Have created an album - cpowell243 - will diagram. Won't let me add photos with error message:

While uploading „model -base without top.JPG“ the following error occurred:
» The attachment’s file size is too large, the maximum upload size is 2 MB.
Please note this is set in php.ini and cannot be overridden.
You must enter your path and filename

Just photos taken with my camera and stored on an external hard drive. ???
cpowell243

[KCStudly]

Dunno about external pics, but for those stored on the gallery provided with forum membership they have to be under a certain size (maybe 600x800 or is it 400x600???). My guess is that it is the same for external links because otherwise when people look at your posts the pics overfill the screen and you end up looking at a few giant pixels. (Disclaimer: I am not techie.)

The easiest way for me, because I use my camera just about everyday for the build, and seldom for other things, is to just change the setting on my camera. That saves the step of downsizing the pics using a separate app. (But you have to remember to reset it when, say, you go on vacation and want to take nice pics... ).

Learning how to post pics is like a rite of passage on this forum. When you get it figured out you will be one of us!

Try reducing and let us know how it works out.

[cpowell243]

KCStudly,
My diagram/plan is at:
gallery/image.php?album_id=3840&image_id=128326
Still working on photo resizing problem for model pix.
Th - cpowell243

[cpowell243]

and my idea on wall attachment is at:
gallery/image.php?album_id=3840&image_id=128327
Make sense? Better ideas? Was using thi to cover plyswood edge of floor and trailer frame (???)
cpowell243

[GPW]

Cpo, you can press the image button ( Img) ^ and enter your picture ...like this

[KCStudly]

Double click on the image you want from your gallery, copy the image-url from under the image, select the Img button in th.e post composition screen, and past the image-url in between the brackets. (Select the "quote" button in this post to see what I mean, no need to reply tho.)

Alternately, while composing you can select the "Gallery" button, then select "Insert image into post" and you will get a smaller clickable version of the image, thusly,


Constructive comments:
I like the idea of having space along the mattress for shoes and whatnot, and it will make making the bed easier, but at only 6 inches wide it will not be possible to walk that close to the wall. But heck, what is in a name anyway.

Also, I realize it is just a sketch, but I would try to smooth out that little peaky bit near the hinge where the front radius transition into the rearward slope.

Will you have a roof vent fan, and if so, where will it go?

[KCStudly]

Think about how you are going to wrap the canvas under the edge of your wall foam. For a foamie, I really like the idea of wrapping the canvas under the cabin and having that tag end of the canvas captured between the cabin and the trailer frame. Therefore, IMO, it is preferred to have the cabin sit fully on top of the frame.

Remember, too, that the canvas won't want to wrap cleanly and stay adhered to a crisp edge or inside corners. The fibers will want to spring back, so you have to factor that into what will happen at the bottom of the walls.

[cpowell243]

KC,
Thanks for feedback on wall attachment - don't want canvas coming loose so makes sense to tuck under the floor. I will lose 1" of interior space by glueing flush, but still leaves 9" on each side of bed (each square in my diagram is 6"). Could also just make the floor 2" wider.
Any reaction to my plan to use 2" in front of the TD and 1" in the rear, with a 3/4" think galley nesting on top of the 1"?
What do you think of the idea of beveling the front to reduce wind resistance?
gallery/image.php?album_id=3840&image_id=128410
gallery/image.php?album_id=3840&image_id=128409
gallery/image.php?album_id=3840&image_id=128408
gallery/image.php?album_id=3840&image_id=128406
gallery/image.php?album_id=3840&image_id=128405
gallery/image.php?album_id=3840&image_id=128404
Thanks for your help - I'm in uncharted territory here (for me).
Charlie

[KCStudly]

I couldn't make out your pics very well because they were too small and when I zoomed in they got pixelated. Looked like a scale model.

Both of my TV's are SUV's so to me, pinching the front is a waste of internal space. I recall an experienced builder pinching the nose slightly for the aero gain, and IIRC he said it wasn't worth the effort involved, but I don't recall who or which build it was. Rounding the front top above the TV height makes sense to me, as does keeping the front as close to the TV as possible w/o killing maneuverability or balance.

Keeping the cabin width about the same as the TV or less makes aero sense, too.

Can't really say about the foam sizes, except that big long unsupported edges in thin panels probably won't hold up too well. My walls are 1-1/2 foam with 5 mm ply inner skins. I went with laminated wooden edges in my galley area to protect against dents, maintain rigidity, and provide a consistent sealing surface. Until I put my upper galley shelf frames in and the counter edge rail, I could still flex the walls in or out by pressing on them; at least enough to slip those parts in. In fact, when I needed to get a little more overlap from my hatch inner skin, I trimmed these items a tad to help suck the walls in a bit. So you should either test or plan your interior structure (cabinets, stiffeners, whatever) accordingly. Not sure how you would do that for the roof part.

My opinion, if a lifting roof and foam construction are desired, I would take a closer look at how Sharon did her roof on her 'My Away'. The partial roof panel and cofferdam lip go a long way toward stiffening and make it much easier to seal, IMO. Easier to build, too, I think.

Something very similar could be done with a curved profile like in your sketch.

Not to discourage you, but just some food for thought to address your expressed concerns.

[Ned B]

Charlie, I'm still at the sketchup phase, but your trailer sure looks like the OWW or optomized winter warrior that Mike designed.http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=40615 I'm familiar with that because it is a modern variant of the Kampmaster. I'm eventually going to build a version of that myself (if the money tree ever sprouts...) check out my sketches here:
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=5 ... 0#p1113453

My plan is to build on a NT 5x8 with a stretched frame and tongue... out to about a 5 x 12' cabin, and about 19' overall counting the tongue.

[cpowell243]

Ned,
Thanks for reply and OWW does look similar to what I have in mind. Have you thoguht about foam thickness? I was thinking of using 2" in the front 1" for the rear section, this creating a nest for a 3/4" hatch. KC is concerned 3/4" may be too flexible but thinking it would be strengthened by canvas/glue covering (?). Good to see your thoughts on gutter. Polycarbonate windows worth checking out.
Th - cpowell243

[Ned B]

Ned,
Thanks for reply and OWW does look similar to what I have in mind. Have you thoguht about foam thickness? I was thinking of using 2" in the front 1" for the rear section, this creating a nest for a 3/4" hatch. KC is concerned 3/4" may be too flexible but thinking it would be strengthened by canvas/glue covering (?). Good to see your thoughts on gutter. Polycarbonate windows worth checking out.
Th - cpowell243

I'm planning on straight 2" foam all around, with minimal wooden support frame under a-la the foamstream. My local hardware/lumber guys can get as much of the 2" as I need with no problems.