Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

these are all I'm findign on the website, they have a very rough finish to them

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... ogId=10053

swampjeep wrote:where would I look for these fiberglass panels ? what are these used for ?

It's an extra step, but they aren't hard (or expensive) to make your own.
A 4X8 table with whatever sheet of laminate is cheapest (usu the ugliest), some turtle wax (or beeswax) and you're ready to go. After polishing it with the wax, paint the table top with gelcoat (it can be tinted) then lay up some mat (cheapest type of glass) and general purpose (GP) resin right onto the wet gel. You'll get a gloss finish that requires no further finishing except a polish and buff to make it shine like a brand new, production-built RV.

I've glued those sheets onto substrates with PL Premium and with thickened epoxy. With some careful shopping, I wouldn't expect it to cost much more than canvas and glue and WAY less than epoxy.

W2, interesting idea !!!

When I saw the link, I though $359 was absurd...especially if you still have to finish it !

The first panel would cost way less than that if you include the cost of building the table. Even at inflated Canadian prices, 2oz X 50" mat is about $7/yard, GP resin runs around $45/gal including catalyst and unwaxed gelcoat is about $20/qt. One panel shouldn't cost more than about 50-60 bucks, though the initial sheet will be higher if you need to buy brushes, rollers, PPE, etc.
The sheets that we made with a single unit of mat would certainly have the flexibility needed for a tear's curve and still have enough panel stiffness if glued to studs on 12" centers that they wouldn't need a backing.

$360 is a ripoff - if you figure 4 sq yds/sheet to allow for some waste, you could do the sheets out of carbon fiber for less (~$ 60/yd)
But of course, you don't have the convenience of going to a store you already know and getting a product that's already made....and then finishing it.

But now I really need to stop reading the forum and get back to work...

Or not, lol

Wobbly Wheels wrote:When I saw the link, I though $359 was absurd...especially if you still have to finish it !

The first panel would cost way less than that if you include the cost of building the table. Even at inflated Canadian prices, 2oz X 50" mat is about $7/yard, GP resin runs around $45/gal including catalyst and unwaxed gelcoat is about $20/qt. One panel shouldn't cost more than about 50-60 bucks, though the initial sheet will be higher if you need to buy brushes, rollers, PPE, etc.
The sheets that we made with a single unit of mat would certainly have the flexibility needed for a tear's curve and still have enough panel stiffness if glued to studs on 12" centers that they wouldn't need a backing.

$360 is a ripoff - if you figure 4 sq yds/sheet to allow for some waste, you could do the sheets out of carbon fiber for less (~$ 60/yd)
But of course, you don't have the convenience of going to a store you already know and getting a product that's already made....and then finishing it.

But now I really need to stop reading the forum and get back to work...

Or not, lol

you do realize that is a price for a 10 pack, so you're really paying $36 each sheet.

.090' is pretty Thick .... Wonder how Heavy it is ???

GPW wrote:.090' is pretty Thick .... Wonder how Heavy it is ???

what did you have in mind? I agree .09 is pretty thick, I just don't know what to look for, but I like the thought of the thin fiberglass sheet being used. When I talked with a plastic specialty shop near here a few years ago, they wanted about 2-3x that price for a single sheet

SJ, years ago an old OFB (old flying buddy) has a glass topped table (pretty Big) he'd spray the glass with mould release spread the cloth out , wet it with resin and squeegee it out flat , then add the foam and weight it down ... (wing making)... once dry it just popped off the table and the finish was as "smooth as glass" ... Something like that might produce the desired finish and durability for less $$ than the manufactured material which may or may not be as suitable ... (if you have a glass top table ) Just applying the glass in the usual manner should work fine, as has been done so many times before... Doing it flat on a table makes it so much easier , no matter how you attach the glass ...

swampjeep wrote:you do realize that is a price for a 10 pack, so you're really paying $36 each sheet.

WHAT ???


Oops, lol. See, that's what I get for multitasking...

I just had a thought the other day. How about tyvec house wrap for a covering? That stuff is crazy strong, cuts easily with a razor blade, won't fray, and is thin enough that the seams should be easy to hide. My gut tells me that you might have to use epoxy rather than T2, though. Just wondered if anyone else had similar thoughts.

Bill

I think that the tyvek would be to slippery? The more "woven" wrap might work though... Maybe I'll have to stop by the construction site down the road and see if they have any scrap...

Your Tyvek idea is interesting but T2 will not stick it as the T2 has to penetrate and get to the air to dry but it got me thinking.

Not sure if you use it in the USA but in the UK we have a breathable roofing felt thats feels like a cross beween very think paper and cloth. Its fully waterproof and would be easy to work with but it lets air through so T2 would get the air it needs to dry. It has a texture and is mega cheap, is way stronger than cloth so could just work.

Dont get mixed up with the none breathable one though as the T2 will never dry

I have a part roll so I think its worth a test.

Edit: Dam, i gave it to the brother in law so none to test

Talking to the RV tech I know , he's on about building a TD (commercially) with Aluminum on the sides over Foam ... Have no idea what he's going to stick it to the foam with ??? Or does it come that way already ??? Aluminum would be a workable trustworthy skin , as so well proven in the past ... Metal working ...mechanical attachments ...

I don't have any experience skinning foam, so forgive me if I go off the rails. I'd like to ask if anyone has tried paper as a skin? I was thinking that it would easily be saturated by low viscosity epoxy or thinned wood glue. For paper, I was thinking about Kraft paper, masking paper, or even a couple of layers of newsprint. Using a squeegee to drive the adhesive into the paper might make for a smooth, paintable surface. Not sure how the costs would compare. What are your thoughts?

i don't think paper will work. the idea of the canvas is to stretch the fabric over and around. the canvas fabric will act like a sock.
any kind of stretching of paper would tear/rip the paper. so i just don't see that working.

the canvas/fabric/material wasn't used for just something to paint on. it actually has a purpose of holding the unit together.

that is my thoughts only.