Moderator: eaglesdare
Conedodger wrote:DJT: Now at last there is something i can help you with. I sold my company (Linco plc) in 2001 and at that time it was one of the largest suppliers of windscreen adhesive (WA) in the UK (20000 tubes a month). Our product was own labelled as Autoline but was in fact made by Sika and Dinol.
Sika 256 is one i can remember and it contains 2.5% Naptha (Petrolium) and 12% xylene. We never tried it on foam but i eats certain products and I think foam will be one of them.
Funny story:
We were doing some batch testing and a salesman called in on the off chance to try to sell me some hand cleaner.
I said why didnt come through and i would talk to him while doing the tests. As a joke i asked "does your hand cleaner remove windscreen adhesive" and amazingly he said "yes, thats one of the main things it was designed for". Now, I have yet to see a a hand cleaner that works on WA so i said, "well if you can prove it I will buy a pallet"
He stuck out his hand and I put a small "dollup" of WA on his palm. Then Oh My God he rubbed his hands together to rub it all over while i shouted "No.........." but it was to late
He said "It OK, our magic juice will get it off, no problem"
He poured on some of the hand cleaner, then some more, anyway an hour later he left with the most black hands i have ever seen
I met up with him 3 months later and there were still dark patches on his hands.
The thing is windscreen adhesive does not just stick to skin it becomes part of it, almost like a tatoo, think of a permanant marker but 10 times worse.
So if you do use it BE CAREFUL and wear gloves, oh and by the way it eats latex
GPW wrote:I dunno' about the foam frame
some good rot resistant wood
Wobbly Wheels wrote:GPW wrote:I dunno' about the foam frame
I agree - it just took me a bit longer to hear the voice of reason...
I was trying yesterday to figure out a feasible way to do it but I can't think of anything simpler than mounting it like the tip out windows on a full size van: 2 round holes along the top edge of the plexi for the hinges and one at the bottom for the latch. Still need backing in the foam for the screws to bite on, but that's no biggie.some good rot resistant wood
Red cedar - it's lightweight, resists rot and bugs, and it's porous enough to soak up resins/glues really well. That and Douglas Fir were two of the most common woods for work boats on the west coast.
Now to go off on a bit of a tangent...(still foamie-related !)
I'm kicking around the idea of a gullwing door...not just to make it more complicated than it needs to be, though I've been guilty of that once or twice, lol.
If I used a couple of hatch hinges and gas shocks with a strip of rubber sealing the hings line (exactly like the hatch on a TD), then made mosquito net 'curtains' to hang from the open door, it would give me a bit of a 'mud-room'. Privacy could be maintained and drafts prevented through an inner (insulated?) curtain.
While camping, the door would stay open and serve as an awning. Well, really more like a dormer over a door I guess.
Thoughts ?
Opinions ?
Derisive laughter ?
GPW wrote:I just had a Cheap and Dirty thought about the windows ...
If you wanted a non opening window, no reason you couldn't trace around the window material .. Then trace a line 1" in from that ... the inside line gets cut through the foam , and the outer line just cut the width of the window material deep (like a rabbet) ... so the "glass" is inset flush with the TD wall ... Then just some silicon to hold it in , and some good 2" tape (eternabond? ) over that for a finish ... Quick and easy ... and you could inset any shape window in a side or door ... even schmousey' ears ...
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