Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Here are the rest of the test samples that I put together with Gorilla Flue and the Foam Fusion.

Below is the joint sample made with Gorilla Glue. After letting it cure for almost a week (don't know that you need to wait that long, I just couldn't get to it for that long) I tested the joint till it broke. You can see from the sample below that it is the foam that broke, the glue held well.


Below is the sample made with Foam Fusion. Like the Gorilla Glue it took broke at the foam, the glue held well.


Below are the face glued samples. I could not break either of the joints


Here are my conclusions about the two different glues. They both work well, they both make incredibly strong bonds. Foam Fusion may take a bit longer to cure. HWFF suggests that I should use less glue. Gorilla Glue may cure a bit faster but it is messier to work with.

You can't go wrong with either glue. It's your choice.

thank you so much for the testings!!!!!!!

Thanks for doing this. Did you apply any clamping pressure when gluing up? I used some solvent free contact cement on a sample the other day and when I pulled it apart later it also did not break on the glue line. Only problem I can see with contact cement is that the surfaces to be joined have to match as perfectly as possible so pressure needs to be applied to make sure there are no gaps. Contact cement is not a gap filler as gorilla glue appears. How was the Foam fusion in that regard?

I’d think the FF glue would require close tolerances , whereas the gap filling property of the GG could be used for “coarse” construction , used to great advantage on mine ...

For the joint and edge to edge test (earlier post) I used some light pressure with a clamp. I intentionally used a rough surface where I could just to see if it affected the joint. From what I could tell it makes little if any difference. For the face to face joint it was smooth surface to smooth surface and I weighted it down with a 5 gallon glass water bottle.

linuxmanxxx wrote:Keeping it to a minimum thickness and directly on the foam might make it only slightly heavier than a canvas/glue setup as canvas in different varieties can be rather heavy in itself. If its that sticky with the bounce added then directly on foam dry and paint seems rather simple now question is can it be applied vertically at all or does it have to be horizontal?

I did all my testing on the horizontal. You can vary the viscosity of the product by adding more or less Bounce to the Foam Coat but I think it will still run a bit before it sets if you apply it to a vertical surface.

You could certainly apply the Foam Coat with Bounce directly to the foam, but I am planning on the "sock" effect for some strength.

The foam coat is the sock effect. Anything that you adhere completely to the surface that is stiff is the sock. See that's all you'd have to do is put it on and paint it which is much less work.

I see what you mean, but the over engineer in me would like a fabric sock of some sort to add some additional strength.

Was the foam coat sticky enough that you could embed the nylon screen in it for additional strength? With it being concrete based I'd be inclined to think a wider woven embedded material would be the best so that the foam coat with the bounce would be able to get in and around all of the material.

It was thick enough and sticky enough to do that, but for ease of handling, I'd recommend tacking it down by some means then Foam coating over that. Little dabs of glue or simple, removable fasteners (tacks, pins, and the like) are all you need. In the video that HWFF provides they show someone doing a large panel (several feet by several feet) and he used pins to hold down the fabric prior to spreading out the Foam Coat. As it begins to cure and he spreads things out, he pulls the pins.

foam "planar" sort of any ways, shows how someone cut their 2" foam down to 1" foam.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/58926-POD-Homebuilt-foam-core-fiberglass-skin-pop-up-camper-build-thread/page2

I posted this in the 'I Hate cutting foam with a Jigsaw thread' but thought it
worthwhile to post it here as it seems like it'll be a useful tool for foam cutting
and sculpting.

I just saw this on the Harbor Freight website. I've never used one of these
and am not promoting Harbor Freight but I wonder if a hot knife would be
useful for us with foam cutting? Here's the link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/130-watt-h ... 66182.html

There's a link to a video of it on the page. And on the bottom of the page
it says it has a guide attachment for it and they mention the use of it for/with
foam. So it might be a useful possibility for Foamie foam cutting needs/use.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

Norm I bought one and tried it last year. The blade is too wide for precision cuts and it burns up the foam and stinks something awful. I just wanted to use it to cut out my foam fill ins for my sandwich builds and found it is just much easier to use a utility knife and keep the blade fresh.

Steve,

'Good to hear the voice of experience with using one!

'Just thought it might be worth looking into.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

Hi All Foamlings,

I came across this web site about a water based resin that looks like it
may be another possibility for a covering/coating etc.. I didn't have a
chance to get very deep into it, but did find out It can be used to glue foam
together. It may be a non-toxic alternative to epoxy use etc. 'Didn't have
time to see what the UV resistance is and such.

http://www.aquaresin.com/index.html

I wonder how this compares to the Foam Factory and other foam coatings?

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo