#1

[ghcoe]

With each fold I made a "witness mark" so that I could tell if the canvas was staying centered. When I did the roof I had a problem with the canvas shifting to one side and it was sometimes a pain to get it re-centered. With the "witness mark" at each fold it reminds me to check and to easily verify that the canvas is staying centered.

Witness mark

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To go through procedure again. First I mix the TBII 50/50.

50/50

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Next I apply glue to the body. I use a 4" brush for application. I apply glue to the body till I cannot feel the brush "drag" but is a nice smooth "slippery" feeling. I brush on enough glue to the body to lay one fold of the canvas into.

Applying glue to hatch

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[ghcoe]

Once I apply the glue to the body I then work on the canvas. I am working with just one fold of the canvas. I make sure to work the glue "into" the weave of the canvas. Making sure that no fiber pockets are left without glue in them. This is fairly easy with the 50/50 glue mix.

Working glue into canvas

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Once I get the canvas totally "filled" with glue I then go back over the body with a second coat of glue. The first coat of glue by now should be a bit tacky. The second coat will go on much easier since the first coat will act like a primer. This will allow a thicker second coat of glue. Again I apply glue till I get the "slippery" feeling when I brush across the surface.

Applying second coat of glue to body

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Once done applying the second coat of glue I then unfold the canvas "two" folds. This allows me to work with just one layer of canvas. Don't worry if you coated the body wider than "one" fold of the canvas, it will not matter. Once unfolded I apply water to the surface of the canvas till I see nice even coverage. I don't use a lot of water just enough to wet the surface. I believe that this starts a "wicking" action and helps to pull the glue up into the canvas. It also helps to "relax" the canvas so that you can roll out the creases. And lastly it also starts to shrink the canvas.

Applying water

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[ghcoe]

Once the canvas is "wetted" it is time to "roll" the canvas out. I use a 4" trim roller with just a standard 3/8 nap paint roller. Before I start the rolling I spray water onto the roller to help keep the glue that gets on it from setting. It will also pick up water from the canvas so one application is usually enough. I get quite a few uses with just one roller. I start in the middle of the canvas and work at a 45 degree angle out towards the edges. This helps to "stretch" the canvas "out" to keep it tight and work out wrinkles. Once I rolled it "out" I then I will work on any wrinkles that may have not easily smoothed out. I will hit the wrinkle with some more water wetting it out well. Then I will use the roller and work it out.

Rolling

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I am using Harbor Freight drop cloth canvas right out of the bag for reference. No washing or ironing needed as you can see.

Fading

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Once done rolling the canvas out and working the wrinkles out I fold the canvas back "one" fold and then "slide" the canvas back till I can see about 1" of the canvas that is "filled" by the previous gluing process. Now I know that I am not leaving any "dry" areas in the glue up process and can continue with the repeat of the above method till done.

Since I had already installed the side canvas, which overlaps the edge of the hatch I am canvasing, I have a crease to work with. I find that a pizza cutter works great to help "push" the canvas down into the crease and defines the crease nicely.

Pizza

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[GPW]

GH, Thanks that’s a great description of the process !!!

[ghcoe]

I got a bit of work done before it got hot here. Started the last piece of exterior canvas I have to a apply. Just a small strip along the front bottom edge. This should be finished tonight once it cools down. Also, started to frame the curb side door. Time to start thinking about a color scheme.

Making the alignment mark

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Applying canvas

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Applied

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I finished the hatch last week and was curious how much it weighed. Came in fully canvased, minus tail lights at 24.8 lbs.....

[GPW]

Really Nice GH , Thanks !!! Nice covering!!! That Does make a huge difference !!!

[KCStudly]

+1 Looks great.

I have some vague recollection of you mentioning it before, but I'll ask. Was the extra filler strip at the bottom front because the canvas wasn't long enough?

[ghcoe]

+1 Looks great.

I have some vague recollection of you mentioning it before, but I'll ask. Was the extra filler strip at the bottom front because the canvas wasn't long enough?

Yes, I allowed 12" of extra canvas to allow for shrinkage and overlap, still came up a bit short.

[GPW]

Happens !!! It’s amazing once it starts shrinking it can shrink a LOT and quickly too ... I saw this personally having watched the FoamStream’s heavy 18oz. canvas shrink 12” plus in length in a 10’ run ... No way to stop it We ended up short even with the “allowance", but just lifted the rear facing end and added more canvas underneath(see pic) ... May be something to that idea of pre shrinking ...
None of that really shows unless somebody picky goes looking for them . ( note: and we don’t Care !!! )

GH , Nice light hatch !!!

[ghcoe]

May be something to that idea of pre shrinking ...
GH , Nice light hatch !!!

This was a 9 foot run. I figured 12" would be plenty of allowance, it shrunk about 15". I do not apply preshrunk canvas. I think it makes for a tighter skin and helps to pull out wrinkles. Just have to allow for that shrinkage though. Good to know which way the shrinkage is too. It definitely shrinks more one way than the other.

The hatch came in way lighter than I was figuring. It is a bit awkward to move around. I was guessing that it was close to 50 lbs. I was quite surprised, but happy to see it come in so low.

[GPW]

So Nice and easy to manage ... May have to secure it from the breeze though ...

GH , it was ODD , the canvas didn’t seem to shrink at the starting point , but went Crazy at the other end ... So judging by your and my results , guess it’s safe to say we’d better leave at least 10% or more in extra length for a shrinkage allowance ... Or pre-shrink it ... maybe a trip to the local Washateria with your thirty yards of canvas and a bag full of quarters ... Best of all , you don’t need any soap ...

Regardless, your covering job looks FINE !!! And we believe extra seams if done straight may look “intentional “ ... ( viz. like “reinforcing strips” ) ... Thing is , nobody else knows what you really intended ... unless you tell them eh ...

[ghcoe]

This morning I started fairing of the curb side door.

Hard edges

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And installed handles on road side door.

Door handles

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I have found that the road side door is a bit tight along the latching edge . Not sure how it is going to work once I get the paint applied. I may have to make another door at a later time. But for now I will live with it.

Installed

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[ghcoe]

I installed flashing in the threshold but was afraid that water would pool if the trailer was uneven from one side or the other. I found a plastic trim piece that has a slight slope to it. Plastic so it will not rot and sloped so water will run out even when the trailer is not even.

Threshold piece

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I used caulking as a glue to hold it in the threshold.....

Threshold piece ready for gluing

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and to seal all the edges to keep it water tight.

Installed

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[ghcoe]

Made my last wire channels for clearance and porch lights....

Wire channel

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After installing the wire I refilled the channel with caulking. With a little spackle later should be invisible.

[ghcoe]

Worked on getting the tail lights ready for installation once paint is applied.

Started by drilling through the center of the junction box to the outside for a pilot hole. This was a small diameter bit.

Drilling

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Once I drilled though both boxes I flipped the hatch over. Then I verified that the holes where in the same spot on each side from bottom and sides of hatch. Lucky me first time and holes were perfect.

Pilot hole

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Then I used a larger drill bit that was the same diameter as the wiring sheathing. I predrilled a piece of wood to use as a drill guide and drilled back through the foam and junction box from the outside. The drill guide keeps the drill from wandering through the foam.

Redrilling

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