Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

OP827 wrote:Nice. How are you planning to tie the lid down?

Have not gotten to that part yet.

Put your dog on top of the box.....then tell him to STAY !

Been getting a few more things done. Weekends are busy and the weather still is not the best, but I am managing to get a bit of progress done.

Last weekend I worked on getting the galley counter installed. Eventually I will be doing the paper bag method to finish off the counter tops. Still need to work things around in the galley to find their place first though. The counter will have a hole cut into it for the sink to fit into. Here it is mocked into place. The counter will be supported by cable from the support struts that hold the hatch up.

I had forgot to mention that I did install vents and a false floor in the battery box a few weeks back.

And then this weekend I started to harden up the battery box hatch. This will protect the edges and allow a attachment point for the hinges and hasp.

VERY IMPRESSIVE WORKMANSHIP!!

I will probably "borrow" a few of your techniques on my build. The part that I don't understand is the electrical I see the fuse box and regulator you used, I just don't know how to select the correct items for my build.

5150red wrote:VERY IMPRESSIVE WORKMANSHIP!!

I will probably "borrow" a few of your techniques on my build. The part that I don't understand is the electrical I see the fuse box and regulator you used, I just don't know how to select the correct items for my build.

Thanks.

The electrical is fairly basic. In my case I just used house hold style switches. I used standard cord type wire from the fuse box out to the switches. I have three switches inside and one in the galley. From the switches I ran speaker wire to the lights. All my lights are LED and low amp/volt draw so large wire is not needed past the switches. Just keep negative, negative and positive, positive and you should have no problems. Most people do not use a regulator, but in some instances the LEDs are driven too hard and prematurely dim and/or fail. I chose to have the regulator just as a extra precaution to save on LED damage.

Just make sure you purchase 12V accessories and run wire of correct size to run the accessories with. There is a lot of info on that online and here in the electrical section.

Good luck.

I got a few items done on the trailer last weekend. Been wanting to seal the vent a bit better than just the vent flange. I just sealed the vent on without using screws or rivets so as to not encourage leak points. Just to make it a bit more secure I added some canvas over the top of the vent flange. It will be sealed and painted to match the roof.

The battery box is getting closer. I got the canvas installed on the hatch.



I installed the sealing flange with pop rivets and then primed and painted.



And I painted on the black nasty stuff to the bottom.

I also worked on sealing the wheel wells. I used 3"x2" angle flashing and 7"x12" flashing square to make the well with.

First I measured.





Then I marked for the cuts. I made my cuts about a 1/8" short so the flashing would easily fit into the well.

Then it was cut.



Bend.



Caulk.

Install.

Next was the flashing square.

First I cut it to width.



Then added the caulk.



Then screwed it in place.

These are the screws I used to install the flashing. They work great for this application. You don't have to drill a hole fist for these to work.

Then on to the hatch.

I wanted a fold down shelf. I am supporting the shelf from the hatch supports with 1/8" steel cable. I installed eye bolts into the shelf and then installed clips to the cables.



I clamped the wire so the shelf would be level and then slipped over the wire end some vacuum line to keep it from poking people.



And now I have a shelf for cooking on and for my sink.