Grits,more work getting done

[GPW]

And I didn’t mean to imply anything negative, other than, that the regular trailer folks think we’re Crazy ... ...but as we like to say around here ... “wise is he who shakes tree for Fish “ ...

[Mary C]

I will be covering with canvas, Becky. I have been washing caving stuff, buying some wood and finishing some of the stuff I still had to do. I have to go to Hiram tomorrow and move a chest back here. I still have to get the frig and washer and drier. I have lots to do and build my TD so needles to say I will do as I can. I hope to cut some wood tomorrow and will glue and glue and glue.

The reason I haven't left for Texas is: car needs a couple of very expensive parts and they have to be on so I can get it aligned before I go, and it is a money thing!!!

Mary C.

[CampsALot]

Looks good,
Once the foam chips fly, things happen fast.

Warren

[atahoekid]

Hey Becky, what you described as foam surrounded by a sheet of thin ply on each side is a composite panel. And it is VERY strong. I built my Road Foamie with ply on one side (inside), 2" foam and a fiberglass skin on the exterior (another type of composite panel). The only structure holding it all up is a front bulkhead of cabinets and a mid bulkhead of cabinets and a 1/2" ply wall to separate the galley from sleeping quarters. I know you built a beautiful TD and so I doubt that you would build another so soon, but if you do we invite you to the foamy side of life

Go Mary. I must admit, I thought a sawzall would be a bit much but it looks like you did just fine!!!

[mezmo]

Just curious Mary...

Did you freehand cut the foam with the saws-all ? Or
did you use a fence/straightedge guide ?

It looks like a great cut job regardless of the technique.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

[Mary C]

Norm I used a black marker and yard stick to mark the foam then I just cut on the line. I didn't do the best but I am putting wood on the inside of the cuts and no it is not perfect but kinda wavy but I am using a construction type glue, I hate GG so decided to use a different type glue I have checked it out and it will work. That is my next step. The only place the wavy cut will cause a problem is one side but I plan to use filler if necessary If I had to cut it again I would use my metal fence but this is being built so that anyone can build with a limited amount of work.

Mary C.

[GPW]

QUOTE: “ anyone can build with a limited amount of work “ ... Mary , that is and has been always the whole idea !!! "So Easy , even Grandma' can build one !!!" (no offense eh )

Even major imperfections in fit can be covered up .... I did a lot of spray foam between Huge cracks on my first one ... Easy , no worries ... !!!

[Mary C]

Glenn If I had to name my build I would call it Simply Foamie Teardrop. If I can do this then anyone can do it I am trying to make it as simple as I can. The problem I now face is a perfect two inch wide wood for framing. I cant find any alternative for just cutting down 1x4s. I have been searching for an alternative and you should have been there at the HD store as a fly. you would have laughed your head off. I was measuring everything , even putting every flat piece of wood beside another I was trying to make it simple but no I couldn't find anything that would work. I don't have a table saw so cutting the wood will be a challenge. I have to cut grass and go get some no ethanol gas for the weed eater. So I will be busy today with the yard. But I will be thinking....... and planning and will come up with an answer to my dilemma I know I have to cut the wood but how to get it done.?????????

Mary C.

[GPW]

Sadly ,wood doesn’t come 2” anymore , some silly marketing hype about milling and finishing ... if they started up with the correct size wood , after milling and finishing , it would be a correct 2” wide ... but that would cost lumber Barons more money (somebody’s foolish idea of Economy and getting over on the public )... Now accepted by everybody (fools )

Did you know a real 2” x 4” has almost the same area as a modern 2" X 6” ( 1.5” X 3.5” ) Ridiculous how the public’s been scammed , and done nothing about it ...not the first time eh ? ... look at the RV industry ... ... Enough soap box ... So Mary , you’re either having to find someone to rip the wood down to size , or just use it and accept a little overhang (reveal) around doors and windows ... nothing wrong with that ... We must adapt to what’s available !!!

[Mary C]

Ok just got the gas and all the gas has ethanol so I will find a station later now to get my grass cut. But............My saw is perfect side panel that is 1 and 1/2 inches including the width of the blade. that leaves 2 inches of wood if I use that as my sawing guide but I am not the best with a circular saw so Now.................I have to come up with a way to saw the wood straight I am thinking put a board on my edge of the picnic table put the wood right up against it and keep the saw base right up against the wood. I will take a picture when I get it built probably in the morning it is about to rain and I have to get the trailer into the barn..............

Mary C.

[GPW]

Mary, Please please be Careful with the circular saw!!!!

[Mary C]

Glenn, thanks, I will be careful. The first time I used a circular saw I was 22 years old. I wanted a box so I made one. My sweet husband just watched and said I was overly safety conscious but that is how I have been ever since. I don't plan to cut off any of my fingers or arm or leg. Thats why I want to make some type of jig. I have to have 33 feet of two inch wood. Thats why I was looking for another way but ............I will make a jig to use, it will increase the safety edge. I just wish I had a table saw but oh well!!! Have a great nite.

Mary C.

[mezmo]

Mary,

Here's a suggestion to get a "true" 2 inches on the wood
for your opening perimeters.

Since you aren't needing a lot of wood, this wouldn't be very
costly. Get, or make sure you already have, good quality 1x2s or
2x2s [whichever size you want/need] that give you a good true
1&1/2 inches dimension, then go to the aisle in Lowes [Or other
store, but I know Lowes has this.] that has the really nice clear
pine and oak and poplar boards. Underneath those, they have
small thin boards [technically known as 'deal'] in those woods.
Get the poplar boards in these. They come in true 1/4 and 1/2
inch thicknesses and 2,3 and 4ft lengths, as well as various
widths [1&1/2 to 4 inches I believe.] Get the 1&1/2 wide by
the 1/2 inch thickness needed and laminate/glue it to the nominal 1x2 or
2x2 [Which should be 1&1/2 inches on their "2" dimension - always
measure to be certain, as they can sometimes vary by 1/32-1/16th-1/8th
inches in dimension sometimes.] and you'll end up with a true 2 inches
in that one dimension - here it'd result in a 1&1/2 by a true 2 inch member
if using a 2x2, or an "L" or "T" shaped member with a 1&1/2 inch leg, and
a 2 inch leg. [If using a 1x2 <really 3/4 x 1&1/2> and gluing the 1/2 inch
dimension of the poplar deal board to the 1&1/2 inch dimension of the 1x2]

There'd be no ripping wood with a circular saw using this method,
just cross cuts. Ripping a length of wood is a much more intense
and dangerous and harder thing to do than crosscutting. It is best
safely done on a table saw, especially when trying for small dimensions.
It is really hard to do free hand with a circular saw, even if you have
a guide of some sort on the saw. Since you don't have a table saw,
see if this suggestion could work for you. It'd be a ton safer too.

This approach would mesh with your intent to make your methods
be so simple anyone could do them. That ties in to a build approach
I've been mulling over which is based on a DIY home building method
developed in the ~1970s by British architect Walter Segal. His approach
[ http://www.selfbuild-central.co.uk/cons ... -and-beam/ ]
was to come up with a method that'd allow anyone with basic hand
and power tools to build their own home. It is a form of light post and beam
construction that uses materials in their basic forms as they come from
the lumberyard/supply source with next to no cutting or trimming, bolting
the frame together etc. ... check out the link's article if you're curious.
As an example: Using that approach on a 2in foam walled TD/TTT door
build here, you could get the 1&1/2inch x 1/2inch x 3ft long poplar boards and
use them full sized [as they come - just recheck the measurements] to make
a 36inch wide x 37inch high door, and so on. Since your door size has already
been cut out here, just go with that and trim the boards to the lengths needed
for your door and opening and glue-laminate them to the 1x2s or 2x2s you already
are using to get you the true 2 inch thickness dimension you need.

I hope this hasn't been too confusing or wordy ! Trying to be precise in directions
can lead to higher word counts, and keeping track of all the referenced dimensions
can also make things a little more intense. I have made use of this described
technique in a couple of household repair projects, so I know it is a workable approach.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

[GPW]

Just sayin’ , most good LUMBERYARDS (real lumber yards , not HD or L ) will rip or cut any wood to exact size for you , and only for a couple dollars more .. Saves time , no make do and mend or dangerous tools to fool with ... That’s probably the best way ... go pick the prettiest boards you can find , have them rip it to the exact size you want ...

[Mary C]

To be honest I am out of money right now so no more trips to the Lowes or HD. Norm, I measured every piece of wood in HD and other trim pieces I really made one of the helpers crazy. I tried very hard to make the two inch wood but alas the closest I could get was a piece of plastic and another piece of trim and then i decided for the cost, my original plan was the best. I had some wood and to combine that with what I had already it just seems the best to use what I had. and Glenn I know I could have gone to the lumber yard in Smyrna but that would not have been thrifty any way I can cut and I will be careful, I promise. Have some faith in me!!!

Mary C.