Duck Tear canvas question

Canvas covered foamies (Thrifty Alternatives...)

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Re: Duck Tear

Postby KCStudly » Mon Aug 05, 2013 11:17 am

To really stay off topic, I'm fairly sure that those were rocks falling out the bottom. Potatoes grow in the dirt, after all.

Amazing the volume of produce! Thanks for sharing Randy!
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Re: Duck Tear

Postby Wolffarmer » Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:09 am

kudzu wrote:Wow, the things I never knew about potato harvesting & processing. I could actually spy the duct tape on the pipes in the video.

The "Spudnik" 1860? :lol: Some manufacturer has a sense of humor. Totally off topic but what was going on around 2:00 with the chunks dropping out the bottom of the line. Were those spud duds?
Those where mostly potatoes to small to be worth storing. Some clods and vines. maybe a rock or two but most rocks are removed by what is called a "fluidized bed of sand" Basically and box of sand with air blown in from the bottom to make if like quicksand. Spuds float of top and rocks sink. You can't use water as then the spuds will not store.

Now back to the Duct Tape trailer. ( it is Duct tape not duck tape ) :R
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Re: Duck Tear

Postby GPW » Tue Aug 06, 2013 4:43 am

So , if you fall in quicksand , grab some spuds and you’ll float ... OK, that’s good to remember ... :roll: Anybody actually ever seen quicksand ... ?
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Re: Duck Tear

Postby Jst83 » Tue Aug 06, 2013 5:06 am

Wolffarmer wrote:Now back to the Duct Tape trailer. ( it is Duct tape not duck tape ) :R


I was enjoying the potato talk :lol:

kudzu wrote:So if you canvas it that means you'll have duck on duck.

Now to work the goose in there and I'll have a duck, duck Goose :thinking: might have to get the wife involved

Wolffarmer wrote:You should have let me know. I can get 6" wide tape real easy here.

6" duct tape now that would be nice just think of the things I could do with that and it would have taken half as much.


Took me 9 rolls of 3", as I was working on it I was thinking wood is so much easier.
Now I need to build a tongue box to add som weight up front so it doesn't tip over anymore when you slide the cooler out of the back :oops:
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Re: Duck Tear

Postby PKCSPT » Tue Aug 06, 2013 5:10 am

Pretty clever,
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Re: Duck Tear

Postby Tinbasher » Tue Aug 06, 2013 5:39 am

Quicksand is a real problem hereabouts the local Search and Rescue teams use hovercraft to navigate the sands as 4x4 have been known to just dissapear :shock:
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Re: Duck Tear

Postby eaglesdare » Tue Sep 17, 2013 8:41 am

How big is this and have you weighed it? This is pretty cool.

Somewhere in our big foamie thread there was talk about pvc, and I remember then that it was decided pvc was not a good thing to use.
So, how has it worked for you? Did you use glue to keep joints together? What about attaching to frame?
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Re: Duck Tear

Postby GPW » Tue Sep 17, 2013 9:13 am

Not to be argumentative, it wasn’t me who shunned PVC :roll: ... I Love the stuff !!! :thumbsup: ... I even make archery bows out of it ... All that for trailer framing is barely yet explored ... Die hard Foamlings' would think to use PVC instead of wood where possible ... because it doesn’t ROT , and it’s Thrifty ... :thinking:
My latest thoughts on PVC is to forget about all the expensive fittings and just flatten the ends and join like an Erector set...or use the smaller dia. tubing inside heated ends as couplers ... Only now I realize we could have made the FoamStream ribs in this manner , which would have been EASY to do ... and very Thrifty ... 8) Could be interesting if you wanted a quick “covered wagon" style trailer ... a box , pop in ribs , a canvas over that ... :thinking: Why you could even sew pockets in the canvas to hold and position the PVC ribs ...a sorta carriage top... many possibilities with PVC 8) ... JMHO FWIW
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Re: Duck Tear

Postby tac422 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 11:21 am

I used PVC pipes and a tarp to cover a utility trailer a long time ago. My friends called it "The Conestoga wagon" :lol:
I screwed small sections of the next bigger size onto the walls to act as sockets, and used a 1x2 with holes for the poles to pass through at the top to add support.
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Re: Duck Tear

Postby Oldragbaggers » Tue Sep 17, 2013 11:22 am

Wolffarmer wrote:
kudzu wrote:
Now back to the Duct Tape trailer. ( it is Duct tape not duck tape ) :R


The technical name for it is duct tape, but the brand name is Duck Tape, so you are all right.

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Re: Duck Tear

Postby grantstew8 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 11:53 am

Here I was worrying about structural strength and how to attach to the chassis etc. etc.

What an excellent idea! I particularly like the idea of bending pipes; you could make an awesome shaped TD
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Re: Duck Tear

Postby GPW » Tue Sep 17, 2013 2:34 pm

Just to add a little interest to the conversation , here’s some pics of PVC bows we made ... and they really Shoot too ... Not a Toy !!! Made by heating PVC plumbing pipe and bending and flattening ... I learned it all from the Backyard Bowyer on You Tube ... plenty of possibilities for trailers ... very Thrifty too . a 10’ length of 3/4” PVC is ~ 2 bucks ... :o
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Re: Duck Tear

Postby Jst83 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 3:46 pm

eaglesdare wrote:How big is this and have you weighed it? This is pretty cool.

Somewhere in our big foamie thread there was talk about pvc, and I remember then that it was decided pvc was not a good thing to use.
So, how has it worked for you? Did you use glue to keep joints together? What about attaching to frame?



:lol: and I thought this thread was dead thank you for your interest I'm getting into PVC gonna build a PVC golf cart over the winter

haven't weighed it yet but it's 6'6"x 11''6" and I can walk it into the barn with one hand and talk on the phone with the other so it's pretty lite, my wife likes that she can unhook it with no trouble.

I did glue it with PVC glue and used 3/4" PVC, I thought about not so when I tear it down i could re use the fittings but decided to glue them and have decided not to tear down.

I kinda like the PVC and I'm going to experment with bending it more so it doesn't kink. If you fill it with wet sand and cap both ends you can bend it with a heat gun and it won't kink then you pour the sand out.

Went camping this past weekend and had it up to 70 mph on the interstate and had no troubles at all.
the PVC is held to the wooden deck on the trailer with metal straps like used to hold plumbing, thin I ran a bead of liquid nails around it along the crack between the floor and the pipe sorta to hold it and seal it.


My next project is a PVC and foam cooler, I have a big foam cooler the came from the honey backed ham company that will hold 30 bottles and ice :beer: I'm gonna build a PVC frame arond them foam and canvas. Sort of a learning project I can practice canvasing over the PVC and foam before I do the duck tear this winter as well as make the coller extra thick and give it handles.

grantstew8 wrote:Here I was worrying about structural strength and how to attach to the chassis etc. etc.

What an excellent idea! I particularly like the idea of bending pipes; you could make an awesome shaped TD


The only thing structure wise is mine 6'6" wide so it does kinda sag in the middle pf the space behind the roof vent, when I go to canvas I'll drill a hole and run a piece of metal conduit across the width like I did in the pipes beside the roof vent to stop the sagging.
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Re: Duck Tear

Postby GPW » Tue Sep 17, 2013 5:13 pm

You could always bend in some upward camber to prevent sagging ... Just a little ... :thinking:


Threads are never really dead around here in the Foamie’ section ..... sometimes they just have to Relax a while ... :relaxing:
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Re: Duck Tear

Postby Jst83 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:47 pm

GPW wrote:You could always bend in some upward camber to prevent sagging ... Just a little ... :thinking:


Threads are never really dead around here in the Foamie’ section ..... sometimes they just have to Relax a while ... :relaxing:


Ok let me pick everyones brains on some issues complete with pics my arrows aren't working :(

On the galley doors I have a gap between the doors that I need to seal, I can't put a middle bar for the doors to rest against when closed because of the colloer draw behind it.
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on the galley lid because the pvc falls between the outside wall it leaves a gap I covered it with bent metal flashing that I don't like cause it's not smooth. I'm thinking a board to cover the whole lid that sticks out past the edge.

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And on the lid I need to come down far enough to cover the top edge in the galley front so I need a way to fasten it down ( see previous picture and next )

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