Generic foamie plans

Canvas covered foamies (Thrifty Alternatives...)

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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby mikeschn » Sat Apr 08, 2017 1:28 pm

5150red wrote:What would be the best glue to attach wood paneling to the inside of the foamie?


You're talking about thin wood paneling right? I wouldn't use gorilla glue, it expands too much.

I wouldn't use gripper, it's too thin.

You might want to experiment with some Titebond II on a piece of scrap. But Glen will be along, he's got lots of foam ideas!

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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby 5150red » Sat Apr 08, 2017 1:29 pm

Yeah, I am thinking just 1/8" plywood.


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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby GPW » Sat Apr 08, 2017 5:24 pm

T2 needs to be clamped ... better if the ply is glued to the foam while still a flat sheet ( clamped or weighted ) :thinking: We never tried gluing ply to foam on a finished wall , but we did glue Chipboard like that, T2 , worked fine ...
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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby 5150red » Sat Apr 08, 2017 6:15 pm

Thank you sir


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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby NebraskaTeachr » Mon Jun 12, 2017 11:08 pm

I finally finished replacing the head gasket on my trusty Cavalier, so now I have time and room to work on a foamie based on the Weekender Design. This is a shot of my first attempt at using Gorilla Glue, with the Cavalier in the background. The pup is named Silky. She is in charge of quality control and making sure nothing stays where I put it. :D
Stay tuned for a build thread.
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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby KennethW » Tue Jun 13, 2017 9:03 pm

Make sure to little sand the foam to get a good gluing surface. If you pickup a low cost HF orbital sander it will make easy work of it.
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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby GPW » Wed Jun 14, 2017 4:47 am

What Ken said , and be sure to vacuum off the foam dust left over from the sanding ... ;)
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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby NebraskaTeachr » Wed Jun 14, 2017 9:57 am

KennethW and GPW,

Thanks for the heads up on sanding. I did not sand the butt joints when I extended the foam, but it seems to be holding pretty well, and the joint won't be in a critical location (and it is the canvas that really provides the strength). I was looking high and low for a roller for removing wall paper, but sanding with an 80 grit sand paper should work as well I think. I had not even thought of that until you fellas posted. I have been working on a project building archery target butts for my rod and gun club so I did not get a chance to do anything on the foamie yesterday. I am hoping to have the side profiles and the rest of the panels cut out by this evening though. I am still debating on breaking out the table saw to make the angled cuts for the roof panels, or try to get away with just using my circular saw. I might just put some cutting guides on each side and use my crosscut hand saw so it isn't quite as messy. :thinking: The circular saw seems to melt the foam a little bit if it binds at all.
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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby mikeschn » Wed Jun 21, 2017 5:55 pm

So I was asked today if we ever came up with "plans" for the generic foamie. Of course we didn't. But if I were to do something someday, which design did we decide on? This one?

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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby GPW » Thu Jun 22, 2017 5:21 am

NT, a good Sharp handsaw goes through foam like Butter …. really … ;) Trick , for square cuts clamp the foam edge between two parallel boards then cut along the edge , the saw will follow the foam squarely along the edge …then you can use that to sand exactly flush and smooth …

And we don’t use a saw lubricant of any kind , as we want the gluing edges to stay CLEAN … ( so everything will stick to it)
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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby KCStudly » Thu Jun 22, 2017 8:43 am

mikeschn wrote:Image

The chiseled edge at the back seems tricky and somewhat vulnerable to me, and I'm not sure what the sloping face inside the hatch (the lighter area where the counter top would otherwise be) is for. If this is primarily intended to shed water or provide foot space inside, I'm thinking that it could be made easier and more ergonomic with some minor changes. Just saying. :D
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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby mikeschn » Thu Jun 22, 2017 8:45 am

Okay, let's make it easier. Your suggestions?

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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby KCStudly » Thu Jun 22, 2017 9:09 am

Maybe just flatten the acute angle out to 85 deg (5 deg downward slope)? That will still provide for some pitch for water runoff, but will make it easier to cut a straight line that is not so fragile.

Just saying, foam doesn't do pointy too well.
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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby mikeschn » Thu Jun 22, 2017 9:10 am

Yep, I like that idea. Would you do that on just the blue foam, or on the pink foam and the blue foam?

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Re: Generic foamie plans

Postby KCStudly » Thu Jun 22, 2017 9:39 am

I would just carry the same line thru both, or even level off the blue sill to make a shelf (if the water gets that far then "we" have a bigger problem). If the blue is a counter space the flatter surface would be far more useful. If there is something going on inside that dictates the vertical height under the blue be higher, if it is a foot well for the mattress and the extra height is needed inside (under the counter, as it were), then I would raise the lower edge of the hatch up to suit. On the other hand, if it is a storage well, then I would shorten up the inside (move the forward edge of the blue sill back) so that it is less of a reach to lift things up over and out.

I haven't read back thru the thread (and my memory is not so good), but I am assuming you intend to use some sort of weather seal (although I vaguely remember some talk somewhere about designing a hatch with no seal).

Again, you may have a bigger design picture in mind than what I am looking at here, so my comments might be off. Take it for what it is worth ($0.02). :)
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