Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

So, I have two question I need help with.
1. The mounting tabs (12) have 1/4" holes. If I use that size carriage bolt and also use the larger holes 1/2" on the cross members, is that enough to keep the floor attached?


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2. When I am ready to run the electrical wiring should I drill two of the cross member holes larger to fit the water tight tube? Approximately an 1".


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1. Twelve 1/4 inch fasteners should be plenty. For the half inch holes you will probably want to use "fender washers" to make up the difference in hole size. Fender washers can be relatively thin and it would be easy to tighten them enough that they cup into the holes, so don't be afraid to use a std. 1/4 inch flat washer as well. For the std washer, SAE or USS spec washers tend to be a little sturdier than general purpose hardware store grade.

2. Not sure about that, need more info. You don't want to compromise xmbr strength by taking too much material away. If you are putting a 1 inch dia hole in the middle of the web on a 2 or three inch tall channel, then it is probably okay. If you are doing the same to the leg of a 1-1/2 inch angle then maybe that is pushing it too much. Can you sling the conduit under the frame using U-clips (two hole saddles) and still have enough ground and suspension clearance? If so, that would be the easier way.

Thanks!


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Short, non-picture update. Bought 2" angle steel pieces at TRS to have welded into the frame as support for the galley area. I will finish priming it when the frame comes back this weekend. Final color for the frame will be black. Pictures soon.


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Frame is done! Primed. Ready for paint.




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That’s a Nice trailer !!!

Comments later. I need food.




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That's some soggy toast right there.

That is why I like my foam floor it will not rot like that.
Look like you are coming right along with your rebuild. The hardest part is saying I CAN DO THIS.

Yes, KC, it really was.

So, I started the day slapping some black satin paint onto the unprotected steel (primed) incase it rained early. I now have black satin enamel speckles.
Then I cleaned out the garage and made enough room for the trailer and the Nookery shell.


Let me tell you, When GPW builds something to stay together it will.
What should have taken 20-30 minutes took almost two hours.

I borrowed my neighbor's sawsall. It's old and cranky. I was doing okay until it got away from me. Good thing foam patches so well.
Then everyone of my own cutting tools died, or went missing. I mean Murphy was working overtime.

I ended up using a small wood chisel to cut through the inner tape and through the foam as far as I could. It was slow nasty work. Then I got out my trusty saw and cut through everything.
It was slow going because, at the end there were tiny tabs of the inner wraps that held the shell to the floor. Took forever, but I finally could lift all the edges. The young men who mow my lawn came by and helped lift the shell off the old trailer and put it in the garage.


So, the next steps are to finish painting the frame and getting the floor attached to the trailer. I am debating whether to go ahead and gripper the canvas to the floor sides prior to glueing up the remainder. Why? I would like to make sure the canvas is fully painted up around the edges prior to mounting it on the trailer.

I will also need to trim the remaining canvas to about 8-10 inches.

That's the report for tonight.

Oh, one other thing, in the last delamination picture the glue and canvas where still in great shape. I think part of the issue was the water had no where to go. Interesting thing to think about.

KennethW wrote:That is why I like my foam floor it will not rot like that.
Look like you are coming right along with your rebuild. The hardest part is saying I CAN DO THIS.

Today was tough. I really didn't know if I'd be able to get the shell off without ruining it. No worries, though. It's absolutely solid.

You're a trooper, Bonnie! Good lot of work you did there, and it's nice to know that it is going to work out the way you are planning.

Gosh !!! I can’t believe that floor ... Odd , flooring seems to be the weak point on mostly ALL trailers ... Have to work on that , although I do believe now that board flooring is a better alternative than plywood . Nothing seems more susceptible than plywood except the "oatmeal board" the big buck commercial trailers come with ... breathe on that and it falls apart ... ( been there )

And the use of a Drip edge to keep most water OFF the floor entirely ... I’m now thinking it’s not the occasional wetting that destroys floors , but the everyday morning dew continually keeping the area wet ... water , eventually finding a way in ...

True that!


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