Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

S. Heisley wrote:

The gap is 1inch wide all the way around and the top overlapps the bottom by one inch. That 1inch overlap should keep out any and all rain. Do you think so or not? If not i just cut the verticle supports another inch shorter so it overlapps 2 inches. A 1inch gap is a bit big for weatherstripping but your right-shims will squeak. I think i will have to do some experimenting, so thanks for the ideas. I will try a few different things to see what works best probably after i finish this tongue box and doors. The foam would probably squeak too, hmm...

Okay, the 1" overlap may be good for keeping water out but cold air coming through the 1" gap could make it pretty drafty. But, that 1x1" overlap x gap may be to your advantage! This is because you can get 1/2" thick and wide foam weatherstripping. So, if you put a strip of that at the very top of the outside side of the stationary "box" and a strip at the very bottom of the inside side of the lifting "box" so that they meet like two fists knocking on each other or maybe touching but not scraping each other, it might work. Here's one that you could tack or glue on; but, you'd have to use a couple pieces to make your length:

https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-AC41W ... atherstrip

There are other types of foam weather stripping that don't scrape or make noise. The problem is that the sellers don't usually give all the measurements or they give them but don't say which is width and which is thickness. Your best bet may be to go to the hardware store and look. Your good fortune is that hardware stores usually restock this stuff in the fall; so, you should have a good selection of products to look at. Foam weatherstripping doesn't make much noise, if any, when it rubs. It isn't like Styrofoam.

It could be pretty drafty on a windy day i suppose, i had imagined it wouldnt be any worse than a tent but maybe it will. I had planned to bring enough long towels or something we could roll up along one side on a windy day, but firther planning for that may be nessacary. Will have to test first.
I know weatherstripping wont squeak but you had mentioned styrofoam at one point, thats what i was referring to.
The weatherstripping on each side may not work because of how we are doing the screen unless i lower it an inch or so, when the sceen is on we will have to set it up on a windier day and see what it takes to stop the rocking.
Hardware stores are packing themselves full of it already been looking at different options for sealing my doors.

This is my tongue box when sealing it yesterday.



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Dan, I added a post script to my previous reply, with yet another type of weatherstripping (picture) that you might look at.

By the way, the pool noodle idea on the straps might be a good idea!

Update time. Been super busy trying to get things done. Got the inside of the box and my battery box painted.

Also rolled gravel gaurd on the bottom, then painted over it.
Installed my second taillight up top, second perimeter seal and jb welded some metal on



Was trying to get the peel and stick flooring on the last warm day of the year (was +20c) and we got 16 tiles on over the latex paint and canvass and then noticed they were all popping back up. I used a roller with all my weight and couldnt peel up the edges so i thought we were good. An hour later they were all popped up. Havent made plan B yet.


Washed the outside of the box and lid with water and tsp, Used gap filling adhesive and calk to fill seams and knots, sanded it with 120grit this morning and primed it with an oil based primer. Did not want to roll on thick. I think the wood surface was too smooth and non pourous. Tried to roll it on dryish and still got some runs. Oil paint flows out very nice! My first time using it. However its taking forever to dry, was supposed to be topcoatable in 2hrs, its been 4 and not ready for my latex topcoat.
I also got lots of fuzz i have to sand first.



Made plans for the doors, bought materiels, been waiting 2 days for my boss to program it to cut on the router :/ hopefully soon.
Was gonna do a wood frame, foam core and frp inner and outer. Went to buy frp at one place and the guy says we dont sell exterior frp, this stuff will disintigrate in the sun.
Another store said they had uv rated frp that would be good for 5-10yrs, to last any longer i would need to paint it.
I wasnt aware of any of that so i just bought 1/8 baltic birch for the outer and inner of the doors and will seal and paint it.
Trying to get this ready for our test trip as fast as possible. We were supposed to be going 3 weeks ago, this was earlier this week along the route we were planning to take only 3.5hrs from our house....

New route planned now south instead but it may be too cold by the time were ready.

S. Heisley wrote:Dan, I added a post script to my previous reply, with yet another type of weatherstripping (picture) that you might look at.

By the way, the pool noodle idea on the straps might be a good idea!

Thanks! I will.

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For your floor look at Paper Bag Floor method on YouTube. It is real simple to do and looks great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvR2pfSdrmw

I did it on my counters and back splash on my #1 Build.

Dan, I read something alarming in one of your recent posts and thought I'd say something about it, as a caution.

You said that you used an oil based primer and were going to apply latex paint over it. Before you do that, please talk to someone knowledgeable in a paint store or....? Latex paint will sometimes peel off when put over oil based paints, unless the oil based paint is sanded to provide "teeth" for the latex paint to adhere to. It can be a real mess to fix, if that happens.

S. Heisley wrote:Dan, I read something alarming in one of your recent posts and thought I'd say something about it, as a caution.

You said that you used an oil based primer and were going to apply latex paint over it. Before you do that, please talk to someone knowledgeable in a paint store or....? Latex paint will sometimes peel off when put over oil based paints, unless the oil based paint is sanded to provide "teeth" for the latex paint to adhere to. It can be a real mess to fix, if that happens.

After talking to gpw and a bunch of online research and talking the the paint store guys it appears you can apply latex over oil based primer just fine. You dont want to put it over glossy oil paint and you dont want to put oil on top of latex.
Thanks for the warning, i didnt think it was possible 2 weeks ago either

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ghcoe wrote:For your floor look at Paper Bag Floor method on YouTube. It is real simple to do and looks great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvR2pfSdrmw

I did it on my counters and back splash on my #1 Build.

20170704_123506s.jpg

Interesting, thanks, ill watch that next week when i have some wifi again.

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“
After talking to gpw and a bunch of online research and talking the the paint store guys it appears you can apply latex over oil based primer just fine. “


Not Really ??? You “Can” , but doesn’t mean it’s going to work all the time … Most primers we’ve used are shellac( alcohol) based or water based primers … Both of which will accept latex paint on top … When we painted Latex over real Oil paints , it always lifted sooner or later ...

Paint store guys , they’re not experts … they’re salesmen eh … at a box store , they’re Idiots and don’t really know s*** … but they pretend to know … Want to know about Paint , talk to a painter ...

GPW wrote:“
After talking to gpw and a bunch of online research and talking the the paint store guys it appears you can apply latex over oil based primer just fine. “


Not Really ??? You “Can” , but doesn’t mean it’s going to work all the time … Most primers we’ve used are shellac( alcohol) based or water based primers … Both of which will accept latex paint on top … When we painted Latex over real Oil paints , it always lifted sooner or later ...

Paint store guys , they’re not experts … they’re salesmen eh … at a box store , they’re Idiots and don’t really know s*** … but they pretend to know … Want to know about Paint , talk to a painter ...

I looked back at that thread when you said this and realized it wasnt you that said it :/ sorry. You had said acrylic or enamel paint iirc and the next guy talked about water over oil.
Anyway, did a bit more research, then called the the sherwin williams paint store i got the paint from to ask. First person had no clue so gave me to her manager. Manager said just sand the primer and it will be fine but i could tell by her voice and the way she talked that she had no idea. I went in later that day to get the paint shaken and asked the guy working there. He confirmed that oil primers typically stick to wood better and that latex will go over oil but not the other way around and that sanding would help.

So, i let the oil primer dry from saterday morning until monday night, sanded the primer with 120grit and cleaned it. Then tuesday morning i painted one coat. Will do the second coat after work. And we shall see what happens.
In hindshight i probably should have looked more into what latex primer would work best, but this is what i did so for now its wait and see if it sticks.
It rolled on fine but that means nothing.

You have real oil paint underlined, is there fake/not real oil paint?
I know the box store guys dont know, the guy i talked to has supposidly been a painter 40yrs....

This is the primer i used, not sure if its 'real' oil paint:


And the same paint i used on the rest of the trailer
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Kilz is a good product. What you're using underneath the latex paint does make a difference. With Kilz and the sanding and then wiping you did before painting again, your latex paint will probably be okay.

Think about it this way … Could you stick a piece of tape to an oily surface …. no eh ? But you could easily stick oil on a piece of tape …

People who work at paint stores are Rarely paint experts , although they profess their expertise , they work behind a counter every day telling people what they need ( sales ) … They are Not Painters , just sales people working on commission selling you something ..
I remember find an old oil painting ( well dried ) and I unknowingly painted a nice acrylic seascape over it … and my in laws bought it … In a year it started peeling , big sheets of paint just peeling off the top ...
It’s BEST NOT to mix different binder paints at all !!!

Don’t be Stubborn !!! Use the correct Paint from the beginning, save yourself a lot of trouble in the long run ...

What's the saying? "Shellac sticks to everything, and everything sticks to shellac"? There's this BIN stuff made by zinsser that is shellac based, and I saw a guy that's been a professional painter for years and years swearing by it on Reddit the other day. Haven't used it myself, but it's worth considering if you want to be sure you're not going to be faced with peeling problems down the road.


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amandacreiglow wrote:What's the saying? "Shellac sticks to everything, and everything sticks to shellac"? There's this BIN stuff made by zinsser that is shellac based, and I saw a guy that's been a professional painter for years and years swearing by it on Reddit the other day. Haven't used it myself, but it's worth considering if you want to be sure you're not going to be faced with peeling problems down the road.


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I couldnt find any exterior version. I have some and like it but all the stuff i saw says indoor only.
Thanks though

I was considering the zinnser 123 as a second choice but went with what i did instead



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Ah, ok. That's a shame, seemed like it might have been a good solution. Hopefully yours will work all right.


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So, my door latches like these should be arriving tomorrow.

I cut 2 doorframes for each door out of 1/2in plywood, each a different grain direction. Glued and nailed em togeather. Very strong like that.
Will cut 1/8th baltic birch for each side, 1inch foam in the middle.
Bent some 18 gauge metal for the latch area. Have to wait till i have the latch before cutting the hole. I bent the first one wrong so i got to buy some more tomorrow.




Tonge box is painted, hope to install it saterday.


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