What next .....

Canvas covered foamies (Thrifty Alternatives...)

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Re: What next .....

Postby John61CT » Sat Oct 07, 2017 6:46 pm

Thanks. Links to sources?
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Re: What next .....

Postby dancam » Sun Oct 08, 2017 1:19 am

Where are you from? Any wood store really, except box stores. Windsor plywood in western canada here but lots of other wood supply places have it here too

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Re: What next .....

Postby aggie79 » Sun Oct 08, 2017 10:24 am

tony.latham wrote:
dancam wrote:
John61CT wrote:But it's a lot heavier than it needs to be.

Do they even make exterior grade 1/8th"?
Baltic birch, but only 5x5 sheets

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The 1/8" Baltic birch I use can be soaked for weeks in a bucket of water and it doesn't change.

T


Plus, if it is sealed, it really doesn't matter if it is interior or exterior ply.
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Re: What next .....

Postby dancam » Sun Oct 08, 2017 2:03 pm

John61CT wrote:
dancam wrote:Interesting idea.
The reflectex im familiar with is fairly soft, 3/8 thick or so and comes in a roll, is that what your thinking of?
Sorry, meant reflective Mylar type sheet, near zero thickness.

dancam wrote:I'm not sure what you would be using as a floor covering

deflecting the foam
I wasn't planning on flexible foam, but rigid, high compression strength like XPS or polyiso sheets. The underlying plastic grid has no real deflection at 18" spacing.

Not planning on regular chairs or stiletto heels 8-)

I'm thinking Johns Manville's fiberglass faced Polyiso would be pretty tough, e.g. sold at Menards.

But yes, good point. The floor covering doesn't need to be rigid, just strong, spread the load a bit.

My wall panelling will be PMF, maybe with screening rather than canvas, so I'll be experimenting along those lines anyway.


Yup, but regular styrofoam is 30psi right? 40psi is available some places and 60psi is typically special order. However i can garuntee it takes less than 30pounds pressure with your thumb to dent 40psi foam. Im not sure how they rate it.
Just saying that like the self adhesive vynel tile im trying to use wouldnt work for you, neither would any soft flooring.


KCStudly wrote:
dancam wrote:... Glued with tb2 or tb3 thinned down a little for more work time...

Unless you are in an especially hot and arid location and your glue application ends up as tacky as it would in a more standard environment before joining the components, for a wood to foam joint I would strongly advise against dilution. Any extra glue or moisture you add will have to be absorbed by the wood in order for the glue to set. For panels, in my experience this worked best with straight TB2 and a very thin rolled on application.

IIRC I shut off the fan (area fan that I use to keep myself cool) and just worked quickly to roll out the glue.




Ok, when i did my doors it just felt like the glue was drying before i got everything put togeather... but i could be wrong, or slow... lol.

John61CT wrote:I would be interested to links to more detail, especially drawings, on that drip edge idea.

But I can't see leaving any cold entry venting that can't be closed off, will be used in extreme cold and high altitude conditions.

.


Extreme cold and altitude eh? Where are you going?
Im planning to take my trailer to tuktoyaktuk in the winter in 3yrs or so, so will have to go through the same stuff as you as far as figuring out insulation, venting, heat, keeping things from breaking in the cold, cooking and so on. So ill be watching, lol.
With filling the holes/squares in the plastic grid- dead air space insulates. If you can somehow seal each side so there is no air movement that dead air space will insulate. Not as well as foam, but its not like its doing nothing.
With the mylar sheet is it possible to use both below the plastic grid to reflect cold as well on top of the styrofoam to reflect the heat back in? If thats how it works...

If your going for lots of insulation perhaps 2inch or 2.5in styrofoam with 1/8 baltic birch on each side and finishing the baltic birch with flooring urethane so its your actual floor would end up being the lightest , thinnest, well insulated and rigid enough. Then carpet or a rug on top so it feels a little warmer when its cold out.

You had said "Layers from the bottom: a thin insulating layer stuck to /sealing below the grid, followed by the grid+airspace, then Reflectix pointed down, then a 1/2" or maybe 1" foam layer, then floor covering"

What was the lowest layer going to be that insulates? I had just been thinking 1/16th plastic but it sounds like you want more than that.
With your plan its 2 1/8inch thick or so and only R-5 from 1in foam plus the bit you get from dead air space.

With 2in foam and 1/8 ply its only 1/8th thicker at 2 1/4 thick, R10 from the foam plus R0.25 from the wood. Add a carpet and its another R1.5

The 1/4in of baltic birch for 4x8 is 28 pounds. Not sure how heavy your plastic is.
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Re: What next .....

Postby John61CT » Sun Oct 08, 2017 8:45 pm

It's 10% lighter than that psf, but fully load bearing, in effect would show zero deflection supported at 18" centers.

The rigid and faced polyiso panels have plenty of compression strength, but won't suffer any tensile or torsion forces sitting on the bench grid, as I think they would forming a ply sandwich, as that ply doesn't bear much of a load.

IOW the foam would be for insulation only, and could go as thick as I like. If the ceiling is 6", the walls 4" then 3" is plenty for the floor I think, even if 3/4" of it is the sealed grid's airspace.
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