kstills wrote:I'm not sure I have the best epoxy for this build, I bought sample bottles of 'table top' epoxy off Amazon for this test because they advertised 72 hour cure. I'm going to get some from the countertop guys and give this another try. Primarily because after all was said and done, the adhesion pretty much sucked. Again, it's probably good enough for interior, non structural work, but why accept poor adhesion if I can get better with another brand?
I may have missed it if it was mentioned earlier, but for your application what you're looking for is generally known as laminating epoxy. The brands that others have mentioned are all good choices. However, some have multiple products for different applications. 'Table top' resin is mainly formulated for clarity, and mainly used in a thick layer to encapsulate something, without using a reinforcing fabric. Doesn't mean it can't be used in your application. It would be better as a top coat due to it's self-leveling nature. There are other products/methods for filling in weave that would be better suited to what you're doing, since ultimately you are going to be painting over it. Less important than cure time is working time (aka 'pot life'). Something in the 1to 2 hour range would be your target, depending on how complicated your layup is (like compound curves or if you're covering a large area) and how comfortable you are with the process (including assembling everything you need before you start).
Something I noticed in a different post was use of a 'mat' fabric. I think what follows might have been mentioned earlier, but I might be confusing this with another thread. Mat fabrics typically are coated with a binder that usually requires styrene to dissolve. Make sure the fabric and resin you choose are compatible. I don't know the size of the cabinetry you're contemplating, nor what you're planning to store in them, but mat may be overkill. Typically it's used to build thickness inexpensively (that whole strength being related to the square of thickness thing -- but don't hold me to that, I'm probably remembering that factor wrong).
Depending on the size of what you build, you may be able to use gravity and pressure to your advantage. You don't need to go full vacuum bagging mode, but some techniques/materials might produce the surface finish you're wanting. There are several materials that epoxy won't stick to, like release film, wax, mold release, and some mylar films. Find a flat surface, maybe glass, a countertop or table. I'd suggest using release film, laid on top of the flat surface. After laminating one side of your work piece, turn it upside down on the release film. Apply some pressure to the work piece via weights, clamps, etc. You don't need to crush it, even pressure is more desirable. Unless you are really good at applying the minimum amount of resin, some should squeeze out (which is good, unless it's too much and flows off the film and makes a mess). There will still be pinholes and other minor blemishes, but you should be able to get a pretty uniform surface with less effort than other methods.
Several vendors and manufacturers have good online resources for info that may get glossed over in videos. Apologies if you're aware of these, but others may not be, so I'll list them below. Some of the info may be product/company specific, but most of it is generally applicable to what you're trying to accomplish.
https://www.fibreglast.com/category/Learning_Centerhttps://www.westsystem.com/instruction-2/https://fiberglasssupply.com/how-to-and-tools/https://support.jamestowndistributors.c ... ct-Support