FRP and NRP

Finishes, paints and coatings

Re: FRP and NRP

Postby razorback » Wed Jul 12, 2017 6:53 am

I found a salvage yard that had surplus FRP from a defunct shower stall mfg. It was on rolls 6'10" wide. I got enough to cover all the outside walls, inside walls, and floor for 108.00. NO seams. I found FRP before I discovered the forum.
This was 10 years ago. Use a shear to cut it. Use Krylon paint as a base paint then cover with any good outside paint for UV protection. Lowes at that time had an FRP mastic I used to adhere. I put the pebbly side out. We have pulled it over 35000 miles. I do store the TD inside when not in use.
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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby mcubberley » Thu Jul 13, 2017 5:43 am

This thread lead to lots of good info. I just wish this photobucket thing had not corrupted so much of the old info on some older threads. Turns out I was able to find 4x8 and 4x10 sheets of aluminum for $30/$40 so I am going to go that route because in my mind I have alway seen the teardrop I would own as having the classic metal finish. I have to seam the sheets to make 5' panels but with backing tape, butyl tape, and small closed rivets, I am hoping I will be ok. I would have been in the same situation with the 4x8 FRP that my local Lowes has. If my class builds another one next year though I am totally going this route based on all this info. Considering I can't get good quality plywood reasonably priced this will make the curved sections much easier to handle and make look nice.

Thanks everyone for taking the time to drop their two cents in the bucket for consideration, it was helpful.
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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby Syberia » Sun Jul 16, 2017 6:34 pm

I built my trailer with the exact Home Depot panels as siding. Screws every couple inches around the perimeter, no glue. They bow out a little bit now that it's gotten hot, but it is a very smooth curve and is not noticeable. I imagine they will lay flat again when it cools off.

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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby Sidekick » Mon Jul 17, 2017 11:15 pm

I used FRP on my trailer and it has held up quite well. There is a ripple now and then from sun expansion, but it has not allowed any leaks. I primed it and painted it with automotive 2 part paint and it almost looks like aluminum.
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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby linuxmanxxx » Tue Jul 18, 2017 12:31 pm

I just don't understand floating it since glue would create a water barrier which I find invaluable in the long run.

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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby linuxmanxxx » Tue Jul 18, 2017 12:32 pm

I just don't understand floating it since glue would create a water barrier which I find invaluable in the long run.
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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby mcubberley » Tue Jul 18, 2017 7:21 pm

linuxmanxxx wrote:I just don't understand floating it since glue would create a water barrier which I find invaluable in the long run.

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I think most glues would give out or cause dimpling/warping due to expansion and contraction due to heat and cool cycles in the sun. It's a solid surface so waterproofing is only really needed at seams and edges. Lots of people just epoxy under their skins as a back up in case it fails at one of those two places.

That's just what I am gleaning from all the posts I have read.
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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby linuxmanxxx » Tue Jul 18, 2017 7:50 pm

All 3 of mine 1frp 2 aluminum zero warping. I used a flexible contact cement

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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby mcubberley » Tue Jul 18, 2017 8:17 pm

linuxmanxxx wrote:All 3 of mine 1frp 2 aluminum zero warping. I used a flexible contact cement

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Good info. What cement did you use?
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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby linuxmanxxx » Tue Jul 18, 2017 8:54 pm

First was regular contact cement had Luan over foam and stick frame. Nasty toxic mess then found the oldest water based contact cement on earth for laminating countertops and such. 3M 30DNF worth the price. Spray with regular paint gun or roll on and when tacks stick them together. Used that bonding Luan to foam and aluminum to Luan trim with edge router was beautiful. Used the clear and the green and totally recommend the green as it changes to dark shade when it's ready. Using on both layers on foam and outer skin was couple gallons about 90 a pop and worth it.

7 x 10 on 5 x 8 trailer boxy style 10"radius on front top edge about 42" high inside and rear galley with double doors. Massively strong with walls about 1"thick total. Weight was around 1100 and could have been lighter.

Frp was 6 x 9 on carry-on 4 x 8 same height and style was 1380 with bed and galley fridge finished out was much heavier.

Did the box because tears are just too small inside. Big enough 4 people could sit and play cards in it leaning against walls.

Next build is gonna be either big standing toy hauler with load part outside and covered party patio or cargo conversion.

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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby QueticoBill » Wed Jul 19, 2017 7:32 am

Thanks for sharing experience with the 3M contact cement. It seems like the right choice.
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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby mcubberley » Wed Jul 19, 2017 6:55 pm

Indeed. Excellent and detailed information!
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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby Atomic77 » Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:33 pm

Sounds like you are going the aluminum route, so this opinion probably doesn't matter, but...

I used Filon on my build. I got it from an RV surplus shop in a roll. I didn't know if I should float it or glue it. The opinions around here were pretty much 50/50 so I flipped a coin and floating won. For mine, it didn't work. As soon as it warmed up out in the sun it warped like mad. My guess is the amount of linear feet had something to do with it and it compounded with every inch. So, round two... I bought red glue, a contact adhesive made specifically for Filon and sprayed both surfaces with a throw away Harbor Freight gun. Should have done it the first time because it is flat and beautiful. I've had it in the sun with 125 degrees on a point and shoot thermometer and it's great. Check out my build if you're interested in the Filon debacle.
;)
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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby mcubberley » Mon Jul 24, 2017 1:15 pm

Atomic77 wrote:Sounds like you are going the aluminum route, so this opinion probably doesn't matter, but...

I used Filon on my build. I got it from an RV surplus shop in a roll. I didn't know if I should float it or glue it. The opinions around here were pretty much 50/50 so I flipped a coin and floating won. For mine, it didn't work. As soon as it warmed up out in the sun it warped like mad. My guess is the amount of linear feet had something to do with it and it compounded with every inch. So, round two... I bought red glue, a contact adhesive made specifically for Filon and sprayed both surfaces with a throw away Harbor Freight gun. Should have done it the first time because it is flat and beautiful. I've had it in the sun with 125 degrees on a point and shoot thermometer and it's great. Check out my build if you're interested in the Filon debacle.
;)


I looked into filon and my only sources cost more the aluminum sheets considering I was able to find 4x8 and 4x10 for 30ish and 40ish dollars with free delivery from the neighboring city. Thanks for sharing your experiences. You address some interesting questions. Because at some point products do have to be supported and since Filon is much thinner than FRP and NRP panels I would think you would definitely need some support in the middle of long runs. I am thinking that glues have made some improvements over the past few years and stuff is just plain better in terms of flexibility, elasticity, and fun stuff like that. Even the tapes that are available now are pretty interesting. I used some 3M flashing tape as a backup backer to my riveted seams (still put butyl between the sheets) and that stuff is cool. Supper rubbery, super sticky, and puncture resistant like you wouldn't believe.

Did you just use a flush cut router bit to trim the edges to shape or did you mark and cut separately? I would think that filon would route nicely if the blade was sharp and speed was kept consistent. Either that or it melts and binds up and does weird stuff. :lol:

I will be sure to poke around your build!
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Re: FRP and NRP

Postby Atomic77 » Mon Jul 24, 2017 1:45 pm

I used a router on each side of the coach and it was a breeze. Cut like butter. On everything else I used a good pair of industrial scissors. Again, like butter. Love the stuff. When you check out the build, notice that I used carbon fiber to mould in all the edges and seams to create a seamless, smooth exterior. Good luck with your build!
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