I'm having trouble finding posts comparing plan vendors

[toypusher]

Stephen,

I built a Cubby from the Kuffle Creek plans and belive that those plans are very good. With that said, if you are looking for a set of "step-by-step" plans then you are not likely to find many good ones. I would recommend getting Steve Frederick's Manual and use it to learn the techniques of building a Teardrop. With that information, you should be able to take almost any plans or profile drawings and build a tear!

This is just my opinion and I do NOT get any thing from either Kuffle Creek or Steve Frederick for saying this!!

I'm Steve Frederick, and I approved this message.

[madjack]

Stephen,

I built a Cubby from the Kuffle Creek plans and belive that those plans are very good. With that said, if you are looking for a set of "step-by-step" plans then you are not likely to find many good ones. I would recommend getting Steve Frederick's Manual and use it to learn the techniques of building a Teardrop. With that information, you should be able to take almost any plans or profile drawings and build a tear!

This is just my opinion and I do NOT get any thing from either Kuffle Creek or Steve Frederick for saying this!!

I'm Steve Frederick, and I approved this message.

...what he said................................................................

[halfdome, Danny]

Are there many plans for 5' wide trailers?

Basically take a 4' wide teardrop and add 12" to all the width dimensions. You may need to consider the extra weight when figuring the axle & frame. You'll need to make adjustments to the cabinets to fill in the extra 12" but most design their own anyway. Danny

[Stephen M (Ethesis)]

Are there many plans for 5' wide trailers?

Basically take a 4' wide teardrop and add 12" to all the width dimensions. You may need to consider the extra weight when figuring the axle & frame. You'll need to make adjustments to the cabinets to fill in the extra 12" but most design their own anyway. Danny

Well, I'd do that, but a 4'x8" teardrop fits on a single 4x8 sheet of plywood. I suspect that once you go to 5'x10' there are some things that are no longer quite as simple.

I may be overthinking it.

I need to spend more time reading and less thinking it seems like.

[Stephen M (Ethesis)]

For an example:

Overall weight (as shown) 1,220 Lbs. w/ 12 gallons of water in tank

Tongue weight: 240 lbs.

Interior cabin width: 45-1/2"

Interior cabin length: 76"

Overall width: 5' 8"

Overall length: 13' 10"

Overall height: varies with suspension

Water tank capacity: 12 gallons

Deep cycle battery

Propane stove (uses standard bottled propane canisters)

Commercial Icebox (18 lbs. ice capacity)

Roof vent with fan

Complete lighting kit

Estimated cost to complete: $3000

I'm really hoping to find something that is closer to 54" on the inside (a full sized bed -- 54” wide x 75” long -- in size). I realize I won't get something large enough for a queen -- 60”wide x 80” -- and I'm good with that, but I'd like to be able to put a full sized bed into a teardrop.

I'm only 5'5" so I can live with a shorter space

[grant whipp]

... but a 4'x8" teardrop fits on a single 4x8 sheet of plywood. I suspect that once you go to 5'x10' there are some things that are no longer quite as simple.

I may be overthinking it ...

... For an example:

Overall weight (as shown) 1,220 Lbs. w/ 12 gallons of water in tank

Tongue weight: 240 lbs.

Interior cabin width: 45-1/2" ...

... Estimated cost to complete: $3000

I'm really hoping to find something that is closer to 54" on the inside (a full sized bed -- 54” wide x 75” long -- in size). I realize I won't get something large enough for a queen -- 60”wide x 80” -- and I'm good with that, but I'd like to be able to put a full sized bed into a teardrop.

I'm only 5'5" so I can live with a shorter space

So, Stephen ...

... I'm not completely sure where your concern lies. See, if you want to fit a 54" wide mattress into your cabin, make your cabinets and the cross-beams in your roof 54-1/2" ... and for 1-piece paneling for your cabinets, use 5'x5'x1/8" baltic birch from a cabinet supply outfit (you can also use that same paneling to sheath your roof and ceiling) ... start with a 5'x9' sheet of plywood for your floor, cut down to your desired width (and length, if you want to stay with an 8' design profile) ... if you want a 10' long body (or 9') with a 4' height, 4'x10' plywood is available (as is 5'x10' for your floor!) ...

If you are stuck on using the Harbor Freight frame, as suggested in the Kuffle Creek plans, look around this site at all of the folks who have wider bodies on that frame and how they accomplished that.

Being as how my building methods differ from Kevin's (Kuffle Creek), and I build on a welded frame of my own design, my weights differ considerably. A typical 4'x8' Li'l Bear will tip the scales at something between 700# and 800# with a 65# to 75# tongue-weight (depending on how it is outfitted with features & options). I have found that by going a foot wider, it adds 100# to the overall weight, with maybe 6-7# more on the tongue ... if I go a foot longer, I get that same 100#.

If you've been to my Plans Page - www.LilBear.teardrops.net - then you've seen the maroon 10' LB10RF pictured there ... that trailer is 5' wide, 10' long, and 52" high (bodywise) with a 3' long tongue (just over 13' overall length), it has a 2-way refrigerator, sink & water system (7-gallon fresh water tank), 12v/120v, full cabinetry, and an Interior Seating Pkg. with dropped footwell ... without the generator on the tongue, it weighs 1,100# with a 90# tongue-weight (with the generator, 1,180#/140#).

The point of all of this is, it is not all that difficult to stray from the "standard" 4'x8' teardrop plan, keep it easy to build, keep it within budget, and keep the overall weight within reason! And certainly, if you run across any problems that are not immediately accessed on this Forum, there are lots of folks here willing to help talk you through it ...

Good Luck with your upcoming project, and as always ...

CHEERS!

Grant

[Stephen M (Ethesis)]

start with a 5'x9' sheet of plywood for your floor

I'm so used to working on houses (the last project was a complete rebuild of my parents house, before that, our house) that I think of plywood only coming in 4'x8' sheets.

That was my mental problem, thanks.

http://www.lilbear.teardrops.net/images/10rf.jpg is pretty, btw.

[michaelwpayton]

Anyone have an opinion of these plans?

http://bigwoodycamping.com/plans

[bobhenry]

Stephen :

My kitchen addition was 14 x 20 and yet the floor was
comprised of 4x8 sheets of 3/4 tongue and grove osb
you just need more sheets.



But seriously mine is 5'4" tall 10' + long and 5' 7" 0ut to
out wide.

And yes it has a pillow top queen inside. We are big folk
an the dogs are usually sleeping inside with us and there
is plenty of room for all.

I went vertical a seam at the galley wall and a seam at the
reinforcement for the door. It just ain't a big thing......









The veneer 1/4" luan was sandwiched on starting with a
full 4' sheet at the rear and this way the osb seams were
bridged with the outside ply to add strength and the 2nd
seam fell above and below the door minimizing the butt
joint seam that would show By adding trim at the top and
a nice kick panel below the door the seam would be a
scant few inches at best.

[Roy]

This is my first post and I hope this is the right discussion for my questions.

I am going to order an axle to begin construction of the Kuffel Creek Comet. The plan recommends the following:

#9 idler (no brakes), SPECIAL SHORT SPINDLE, no brake flange, grease lubrication, 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern hubs with the 6.5" diameter hub surface for a 15" wheel, 1/2-20 wheel studs, 22.5 degree down start angle, 3" high bracket, standard orientation of that bracket, side mount hangers, 60" hubface to hubface and 47" outside bracket to bracket.

These plans are for a 4 x 10 teardrop. From what I am reading in this discussion, if I want to go 5 x 10 I would order the axle exactly as suggested except I would add 12 ". Please correct me if I'm wrong. That would mean 72" hubface to hubface and 59" outside bracket to outside bracket. Any other considerations or is it that simple?

Also if I'm going to add laminate to the floor will it matter if I just piece the floor together in stead of having to find a 5 x 10 piece of plywood? If the sides are going to be skinned in aluminum can I piece the plywood there as well (just end to end)?

One last question, if the plywood on the floor and the walls are going to be covered (either by aluminum, laminate flooring, or insulation) do I really need ACX plywood as stated in the plans?

Thanks everyone. Great forum.

[michaelwpayton]

One last question, if the plywood on the floor and the walls are going to be covered (either by aluminum, laminate flooring, or insulation) do I really need ACX plywood as stated in the plans?

I'm new to the forum, and teardrops, myself. But, I have been around a lot of plywood re boat building. I'd say the "X" is more of a foundational requirement... regardless of the other, more cosmetic oriented, "standards" you mention.

I put "standards" in quotes because now-a-days, unless you are going to spend $50-$100+ on your ply (e.g. BS1088 or BS6566 rated) ... most of what you find is full of voids and not of very good quality, in general, at all. Of course, one can always "get by" with ply of lesser quality... as long as you make up for it in other ways via epoxy, and other, coating and such methods.