Eriba Puck

[rebapuck]

If you look hard enough, you can see my closet faces the entry. What if you move your AC higher and slide your portapotty under? If I ever remove my Trumatic furnace, that's where my potty is going.


With all the changes you are making, it will hardly be a Puck anymore. You'll have to give it another name. Faux Puck? Partial Puck. Previous Puck? Puck NoMore? Puckster? Puck Like? Puckest? I could do this all day.

[AZSpyder]

Puckenstein

[rebapuck]

I like that one!!

[rebapuck]

Jerry,
Before you recover the inside, you might consider installing another awning rail above the original. The original is immediately above the door and, depending on how tall you are, could be too low. If I were you, I would also add rails on the other three sides too. Then you could put up window awnings.
Use a rare earth magnet to find your studs.

[devigata]

With all the changes you are making, it will hardly be a Puck anymore. You'll have to give it another name. Faux Puck? Partial Puck. Previous Puck? Puck NoMore? Puckster? Puck Like? Puckest? I could do this all day.

Just Puckin' Around? Crazy Puck?

[triker45]

Hi Jerry
Judy just turned me onto this thread. Looks like you do some awesome work. I have a '71 Puck and a teardrop. Mine weighs 735# with the water tank full and a Napa 12v deep cycle battery. Haven't had to do much to mine as it was in great shape when I bought it. I would recommend that you use never seize on all the hardware threads like the back window latches and the screws for the popup braces. Other than that I really like my Puck and they are "cute". Talk to you later. Oh by the way I am Jerry also.

[AZSpyder]

I'm on the move again after a bedroom rebuild and a grand daughter visit.

The main push has been to get it painted before I can do any assembly. I was tempted to just mask and paint the door without taking it apart. There was a little corrosion at the bottom so I went for a tear down. It is built with a steel frame sandwiched in the middle. I couldn't beleve there is more rusted steel to replace. It looks like water would tend to get in the louvers and settle in the bottom.



The bottom tube and a bit of one side is going to have to be replaced.

This morning I did manage to get the thing primed and painted. First a coat of self etching primer.



I actually planned on painting it tomorrow. After reading the literature that the paint shop kindly put in the box I realized it was better to right from the priming to the color. With temps approaching 100 that made for a long morning.



I think it came out at the not too embarrassing point I was shooting for. I am still learning to paint. I think with a better gun, a bigger compressor...and skill I'l be set.

I'm beat but that much is finally done and I'm taking tomorrow off from any work.

[AZSpyder]

Hi Jerry
Judy just turned me onto this thread. Looks like you do some awesome work. I have a '71 Puck and a teardrop. Mine weighs 735# with the water tank full and a Napa 12v deep cycle battery. Haven't had to do much to mine as it was in great shape when I bought it. I would recommend that you use never seize on all the hardware threads like the back window latches and the screws for the popup braces. Other than that I really like my Puck and they are "cute". Talk to you later. Oh by the way I am Jerry also.

Cool, the world needs more Jerrys!
An anti seize is a really good idea. Thank you very much for that one. I have used it regularly on cars but it never dawned on me to use it on the Puck. I had to drill out just about every screw on this thing. I have what must be 250 or more to put the screw strips back on. Maybe I'll look or a large industrial size.
Jerry

[wlivesey]

WTP???

sorry.

[rebapuck]

You got more energy than I ever had in my whole life.

Looks good and I'm very impressed.

[triker45]

Jerry
Could you tell me what that hoop is made of that the canvas wraps around to fasten to the pop-up? I replaced the screws that hold the hoop to the pop-up and had trouble getting some of the new ones to start. Thanks for your time. The other Jerry

[AZSpyder]

The pop up frame is steel, very thin steel. I'm no expert but would guess maybe 18 gauge or thinner. I have been doing my repairs with 16 gauge and it looks like roll bar tubing compared to what the Puck is built out of. It is about 5/8 inch diameter. At least my frame is one steel part that didn't rust!

On mine the holes for the fiberglass top screws were drilled all the way through. If you ever need to find the holes you may be able to push a pin from the bottom up through the canvas, if you can find the holes on the bottom. I'm not looking forward to trying to find them when I get the fabric made. I can feel my back aching already with just the thought of it.

I think we have a plan on the canvas replacement. There is a Ebay seller in England selling them but with the exchange rate it is more then I want to spend. My wife has volunteered to give it a shot. She did make our daughters wedding dress that came out looking like a high end tailored store bought one. The top should be a piece of cake. I was looking around for canvas but ran across some Sunbrella at a price we couldn't turn down. It is normally about $45 a yard and we got 4 yards for $6! The fabric does glue around the top frame and I understand Sunbrella doesn't take glue well. Now if anyone has tried gluing this stuff I sure could use some suggestions. I may use screws and washers into the screw holes in the bottom of the frame.

Jerry

[rebapuck]

I just Googled gluing Sunbrella. The only glue mentioned was 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. Think it would only hold it in place while you made other attachments. What about stiching or lacing it on.

When I replaced my canvas on the VW nineteen years ago, I sewed a strip of loop velcro around the top of the canvas. The hook part went on the wood frame. It's been very handy to be able to drop that canvas. I had to staple the hook part which, frankly, was not the best. Todays glues are superior so I need to do it again. I have had a small strip of industrial adhesive velcro in the Puck for 3 years and it has not budged. I may try that.

[triker45]

Jerry
Thanks for the info. Was more curious than anything. I used stainless #6x3/4" sheet metal screws with finish washers and a rubber washer inside the finish washer. Worked well except for one hole where I had to use an insert. I was replacing rusty orginal(?)ones so the finding the holes wasn't an issue. I have used the 3M product that Judy mentioned doing auto interiors and it worked well with what I was using. Thanks again. Jerry

[triker45]

Need feedback on wheels and tires. I have 5.00x10 tires on my Puck and need new ones. It seems that 5.00x10 tires are hard to find. Does anybody know a source or has anyone changed to 12" wheels? Looks like they would just fit. Thanks. Jerry