Evolved taste in teardrops?

[Frank]

Mike, I agree with your better half, it is the look that I really like, just getting everything into it. Like the idea of the slide-outs, just have to figure out the working parts.

Frank

[mikeschn]

Thanks for the encouragement. Yep, I guess if you drop the floor, and squeeze in through the door, then you have a table you can sit at in the rain, or snow. I add the element, snow, because our local campground is open until December and we are going to do some cold weather testing this year, hopefully in the snow.

I'm wondering if one dropped the frame under the door, and brought the door down to the level of the footwell??? Like a Serro Scotty? Similar to this...

Maybe even paint the lower part black to reinforce the sleek profile.

Mike...

[Grant]

"Yep, I guess if you drop the floor, and squeeze in through the door, then you have a table you can sit at in the rain, or snow ..."

Mike!

With that 10' profile, a 32" wide door is EASY to fit in (I put 32"W doors in my 8' designs with no trouble), even as much as 36" wide, so there'd be no "squeeze" to geting inside. I also mount my tables on a single pedestal that allows the table to be turned a bit to allow even easier ingress/egress.

"I'm wondering if one dropped the frame under the door, and brought the door down to the level of the footwell??? Like a Serro Scotty?"

Why? You'd be making more work for yourself, adding more weight to the frame, and eliminating that side support for the bed cushion(s). Unless you're building a high-steppin' off-road teardrop like Ryan wants to, or you have some kind of physical disability, entry & exit of a typical teardrop is relatively easy with little fuss (and with a little practice can even be graceful & dignified ;-} ;-} ...!). Remember the K.I.S.S. principle that is part & parcel of the allure of teardropping in the first place.

Here's something else to consider, with regard to door placement: when you look closely at many of the earlier vintage designs like KIT, Ken-Skill, or Benroy (to name only a few), you'll notice that the threshold of their doors are as much as 6" above the floor. Many new(er) builders have figured out that about 2" is all that is needed, and THAT makes entry/exit of the teardrop even easier than it was 50-60 years ago.

Your proposed 5"W x 10"L planform is going to allow a LOT of flexibility with regards to desired features. I'd be willing to submit that you WILL be able to incorporate air-conditioning, and even a modest heat source, if you plan carefully. Just keep that pencil sharp and scratching! Oh, that's right - you're using CAD ... ;-} ;-} ...! O.K. - BRAIN sharp and fingers tapping!

CHEERS!

Grant

[Chip]

Mike,,speaking of cold weather,,,a lot of us do not have large units that would accomidate a heater and if ya not near 115v then ya might be shivering,,,I got an idea for a 12v heater but its sort of out there,,,what do most do other than the 98.6 degree heater ya take with ya,,lol,,,??thats just if no regular current around,,,

chip

[Joanne]

Hi!

I agree that the profile looks like a Modernistic. Although it seems like the galley space towards the rear is a little awkward because of the shape, it has to be my favorite profile. It's outline is nearly art-deco.

Anyway, since we keep talking about slide-outs, why wouldn't a "slide down" work as well? You could add a retractable footwell that could extend down further than if it was built-in. If it was built with a lip around the top edge, it would automatically seal as it dropped into place.

Maybe a retractable footwell is solving a problem that doesn't exist, but I'm trying to learn to think "outside the box". Most of the ideas don't hold water, but every now and then I come up with one worth considering.

Just my .02 worth.

Joanne

[tdthinker]

I sall that trailer on ebay, it is a good trailer. That trailer has nice space with the dropped floor.