Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm new to the board and building my first teardrop. wondering if there is anyone else close by?

I am kinda close in Clearwater. Not started my build yet, still changing my design everyday.

Photoman33770 wrote:I am kinda close in Clearwater. Not started my build yet, still changing my design everyday.

I'm really close to Clearwater air port

About 20 or so mins away.
How far along are you?

I have the sleeping deck done and the side profiles cut out. too worn out from work to do anything on it today. my build thread is linked in my sig.

No need to kill yourself working on it. I steady pace gives you time to add more ideas.

If you need extra hands putting up walls or whatever. Drop a line.

I'm in Clearwater. I have my hitch installed and the HF trailer out of the box so, oh my, I guess that means I've started. No sawdust yet. I drive a Miata so the trailer has to be put together before a lumber run....
Cheri

Are you planning on extending the frame or moving the axle?

After reading the ideas in the trailer section, and working around the challenge of no RV/Camper parking allowed in my neighborhood so it will have to fit in the 7'x7' garden shed, I've gone with the 40"x48" trailer and am overhanging the deck 8" in the back, 20" in the front. That should put the axle at about 35% from the back. I do hope to replace the tongue so I can run it the entire length but so far I've gotten a quote of $1.50 per inch plus labor...gack...

Just as a thought. You could do the same as the people on here have done to make 4 or 5 x8 into x10. They take 2 cross pieces and bolt those to the end as extenders. In your case you do not have cross overs to move around but getting 6 foot angle at the box store extending the bed will work. A 2 foot overlap on the side rails gives you a 4 foot extension. You would need to shift the axle. ( drilling 4 holes each side). As for the tongue. There is very little weight on it depending on how far back the wheels shift and planned weight in the rear, so I am thinking get square tube the length you want. The inside diameter of 2 inches, then a pipe with outside diameter of 2 inches so it will slide inside the other. You could even use round stock if you have to, Have the larger welded on. ( check around, a welder will do that for 20 bucks ) then the smaller pipe is slid inside and using a pin slid in from the side, lock it in place. The 2 inch stock will let you mount the receiver coupler no problem. hmmm if you predrill the holes for the coupler and holding pin, you could build the whole thing, tow it to welder, unbolt the tow arm, he welds the new and you switch over the coupler and tow it home. If you look at the metal tube HF uses for the tongue you will see what wall thickness you need. Look at the larger frames in the store and you will see that they are pinned to be removed. you could do that but the coupler would need to be worked up. That would give you a full 7 feet. ( OK shorten it an inch or two to get the doors closed when the tongue is removed.
Thinking a bit more. the receiver tube could be bolted on. Extend it as far back as you want and bolt it to the cross members. At the front you would need to make a U clamp ( or just use a u clamp )to bolt it up.
ANOTHER THOUGHT If you are keeping it light weight. less than 700 lbs or so. Look at the folding 4x8. you could replace the rear tongue bolts with hitch pins and the tongue will come off. Cut 1 foot off the back and you have a 4x7 with wheels already moved to the rear by a foot. Years ago I made a food cart from one probably weighed about 800 lbs. The ply floor and sides means it will not fold. YES it is $80 bucks more but then it is all do it yourself and it holds 1100 lbs. I have a 20% off coupon that is good till the 22nd. I normally get one every month or so.

cheri832 wrote:After reading the ideas in the trailer section, and working around the challenge of no RV/Camper parking allowed in my neighborhood so it will have to fit in the 7'x7' garden shed, I've gone with the 40"x48" trailer and am overhanging the deck 8" in the back, 20" in the front. That should put the axle at about 35% from the back. I do hope to replace the tongue so I can run it the entire length but so far I've gotten a quote of $1.50 per inch plus labor...gack...

nice go with a swinging or removable tongue so you can have a bigger sleeper.

I just read about a swing-away tongue on a website while searching for C-Channel to match and replace the 52" tongue that came with the trailer. ...but....I'm not sure I want to spend $108 besides the steel. My metal skills run to owning a couple socket sets..i.e. nada. I have already bought the smaller trailer so this first one will be a solo convertible. I'm aiming for an ultra-light 350 lbs maximum...a chopped superleggera profile with a fold down counter/pull out in the hatch and a shelf and twin size bed in the interior. I did find a great place for used RV windows last weekend. RVs-R-Us on 66th carries used parts. Any ideas on a inexpensive place to pick up Steel tubing? 2x3x1/8th.....
Cheri

cheri832 wrote: Any ideas on a inexpensive place to pick up Steel tubing? 2x3x1/8th.....
Cheri

Alro Steel http://www.alro.com/Locations/Locations_CZ.aspx

12490 49th St. N.
Clearwater, FL 33762-4310

John,
Thanks. That's exactly what I needed. Your progress on your build is incredible. If I get one thing done a week, I feel good.....

Photoman,
What designs are you leaning towards? I know I've changed mine several times since I found this board. Now if I can just find all the bits of paper where I've jotted down tips as I found them......
Cheri