The Poet Creek Express - Foamie Hybrid

[Wobbly Wheels]

Can't wait to see what the super-secret project is. Whatever you're doing, I'll bet it comes out looking great given the attention going into it.
You probably know this already but, if you're going with a GFI inside the cabinet, they don't fit too well in those shallow boxes.

[KCStudly]

Thanks for the vote of confidence WW. It is just a small project, but I think it will play better and make more sense if I present it all as one entry. Not really that big of a deal, but I think people will like the novelty of it. Hint: it will be useful for DO cooking.

All circuit protection will be in the TB at the source. I figure if I need more depth in the box later for 110v I can add an extension and trim it with maple like the rest. For now I just want to get the wires in there for future reference. More likely it will be used as a 12v drop.

Here was the first location I thought of for the ceiling outlet. This is looking from the curb side with the vent fan opening on the right for reference. I liked this location because I figured I could run the wires with the fan wires, use the void under the fan trim to make the turn rearwards (making it conceivable to service the wires in future despite the turn), only have to drill one hole in the rear fan spar, and have the stiffening flange around the outlet serve as a router template with plenty of room in between the spars for the router shoe.


Then I realized that the knock outs, or rather, the wire entrance strain clips are on the ends of the box. That meant that if I ever had to pull these or more wires, they would have to turn to get in the box. Not the end of the world because the box will be removable, but not ideal. I considered turning the box lengthwise, but then the router shoe would hit the rear spar, and the front edge of the outlet cover would be closer to the front of the cabinet than I wanted. So I decided to move it back behind the rear spar.

Next I tried to fish the wires down thru the passage at the top of the curb side wall, but the hole thru the top of the dome light blocking just wasn’t big enough to accept the extra wires, and I didn’t want to pull the other wires out only to drill the hole bigger and find that I still couldn’t get them down thru the wall.

Plan B, route the wires thru the front wall toe kick and up over the roof drilling thru all of the spars, just like on a traditional build. We’re committed now.

The wires will come from the TB thru the Sealtite conduit that passes thru the bottom of the locker; into the wire way along the lower front wall toe kick; travel a few inches toward the curb side to clear the locker; punch into the toe kick to an intersecting hole drilled down into the toe kick from the outside. The available location for that hole was determined by the locker (on the right), the lower axe handle mount blocking (on the left) and one of the deck screws securing the toe kick to the floor (recess filled with sawdust in the following pic). Kind of tight.


Not shown, by carefully measuring relative to the outside and referencing the locker inside/outside, I was able to drill from the inside near floor level into the front wall/toe kick to intersect this hole.

Following the wire path up, the hole thru the rock guard blocking just missed the pocket screw holding that to the locker.


As the wires move up along the front radius they will cut diagonally to a line just to the outside from the curb side roof vent side brace. I figure I am very unlikely to try to attach anything to the front radius later, especially since there won’t be any blocking there anyway, so not a bad place to let the wiring run as needed. Here is the line of holes in the spars looking from the front rearward.


Karl had this angle drive attachment with hex shanked drill bits that made it possible to drill thru the more closely spaced spars at a perpendicular angle.


Standing in the galley looking forward, the wire path makes one more jog inboard between the rear fan spar and the last spar in front of the hinge spar.


Here are a couple of pics documenting the distance from the outside face of the curb side wall and the centerlines of the wire path. First pic is the rear spar with the outlet flange location traced on the ceiling up against the back of the spar.


Next is the rear fan spar.


I used the utility knife to rough cut the outlet hole. Once I had scored thru a few layers it was easier to carve away some of the waste in a wedge shape, freeing up the knife blade to make a few more scores.



I tried to be careful not to press too hard scoring so as not to splinter out the finished inside surface, but still managed to get a fairly sizeable chip out (sorry, blurry pic).


Little dab of glue and a clamp should take care of that.


Next up was to glue the stiffening flange to the opening.


I should be able to get the trim router around most of three sides, then I’ll deal with the last of it by sanding or rasping as needed.

Spent some time dusting off the roof in prep for fitting the foam, but stopped short of firing up any power tools.

As a reward for making decent progress, I allowed myself to rub some stain onto the shovel handle mount.

[KCStudly]

I got a little late start tonight and a late visit from Karl, so only about an hour of actual work.

Pulled the clamps off of the ceiling outlet flange and used the top bearing bit in the trim router to trim the ceiling panel rough cut to the inside of the flange. The router got most of it.


To get the corners and rest of it I used a combination of the tools shown here. It was much easier to stand in the galley and work from the top, but I had to be very conscious to always draw upward so as not to splinter the finish inside.


Once I had the box fitting well, snug but not so tight that it needed to be forced, I stuck it in the hole from the top and used it as a template to pilot drill thru for the mounting screws, again being careful not to push the drill too hard and create splinters. Then it was a simple matter to screw the box in place using #6 x 1/2 inch screws.



Thinking ahead about how I intend to seal the wall foam to the roof foam with GS in the gap where the ceiling skin is held back. I’m having second thoughts about relying on the GS foam, canvas and paint to seal the edges of the ceiling ply and the spars against any potential or long term issues with water intrusion. My theory has always been that the outer skin would do the sealing and that everything before that will stick better to the wood if it was left raw. I have used the GS enough to know that it can be fairly porous, especially after sanding the outer crust off; and despite diligence, when gluing the foam down using PL it doesn’t usually make 100/ct contact all around the edges. Now I am wondering if I should use the mix to pre-seal, if not just the ply edges, ceiling outlet, spar tops and end grain, then all of the roof wood that will eventually get covered with foam, etc. I don’t want to make more of a deal out of it than necessary and then just sand it back off to give it tooth for the bonding, but I would feel ridiculously stupid if I go through all of this work and then have a premature failure due to the lack of a little extra effort at this stage. Thoughts?

It warmed up to 40 deg F outside this afternoon, but was still only 30 in the loft when I got there tonight. Tomorrow’s forecast is for a couple more inches of snow.

Short term plan is to start cutting and fitting foam for in between the roof spars, routing as needed for joint backers and the outlet. Once I get the first layer of 3/4 thk glued down I can gouge out a trough for the outlet wires, string them, and fit the rest of the foam.

[Wobbly Wheels]

Looking good KC.

For the amount of trimming that you're doing and the finish that your standards require, maybe look into one of the Japanese-style pull saws ?
They are flexible and have a kerf on only one side so you can use them against a face (albeit unfinished) surface. I have one that cost me ~$30 and I find myself reaching for it all the time, especially since it fits in a tool bag.

As far as the sealing thing goes...since you're already an old hat at it, why not throw a coat of epoxy over the trailer before putting your canvas on ?
On my foam/epoxy build, I definitely have to fill the pores with thickened resin before glassing.
The resin will seal the pores in the foam and ensure that, even if water does intrude through the canvas/paint matrix, it won't do any harm. I can understand arguments against the cost, but what's a hundred bucks for a gallon of resin given the care you're already putting into this epic build ? (a hundred here, a hundred there...)
You'd need to get the blush off and spend some time with an 80G block to get the paint to stick, but you'd be able to camp without worry that all your hard work was being undone, even if the canvas/paint failed completely (speaking about the seal, not structurally). To seal the wood, you can usually thin the resin after mixing up to 10% (by weight) with acetone to penetrate the wood better, though IME you'll need a warmer day in the shop to do that since it takes a bit longer to kick.

But I'm sure that, however you resolve that uncertainty, it will be well considered and logical as a Vulcan....even if it prolongs the build some and keeps you from actually camping in it

[Wolffarmer]

I will also vote for the pull saws. I have 2 of them. One a Shark tooth or something. Pretty good. And one from Harbor Freight. I really can not recommend the Shark Tooth one over the HF one. The HF has both cross cut and rip sides. I prune a bunch of my trees and such with it. Works for me. Not sure if it will fit in an outlet box hole.

Randy

[KCStudly]

Re: the Japanese style saws. I handled one up at the big box store but it didn't grab me (so to speak) so I put it back. Got a small Stanley shark saw instead and have used that on occasion, but rarely.

Re: the roof sealing. I will probably do something. I'm leaning away from the epoxy but it is in consideration given the happy result on the front radius. I was leaning toward "the mix" but the thought of having to sand it back to get tooth seemed counterproductive.

Snowing again today with 2 inches forecast.

[tony.latham]

KC:

I just had to be the 8,900 visitor to your thread.

Looking super-great as usual. I've decided to back off on giving you the pushes to get this piece of art finished and in the hills. It's been a pleasure to watch this thing develop and It'll be a teary-eyed day on the Internet when this thread is done and I can't drop in and learn from you.

Tony

[KCStudly]

Tony, Thank you very much for your constant support, motivation and the very kind words!

However, the cynic in me wonders if you haven't now turned to reverse psychology? (bwa-ha-ha-ha... maniacal laugh)

Poke me with a stick if you have to, go on, do it.

I keep thinking about a different build. Much simpler, less finish work, rear entry standy or slouchie that slides onto The Charcoal Briquette. There maybe another one, number 2?

[KCStudly]

You may recall that I had previously rough cut all of my 3/4 thk x 2 ft x 8 ft foam to just over 64 inches long, suiting the 64 inch width of the cabin plus a bit to sand flush on each side; the plan being to prioritize the full lengths for the top layer of the roof and hatch, leaving the shorter drops to piece together and fill in the first layer.

So tonight I took all of the slightly less than 32 inch long drops, ripped off the factory cove edges, and ripped them down into pairs to match each of the roof spar spaces. Since the fan bay interrupts the full width, I went ahead and ripped four of the shorter blanks for there, saving another long top sheet for somewhere else.


To make up the difference in combined length I ripped a bunch of 3/4 x 3/4 inch filler strips from the drops to add back in the middle between each pair.


In the first pic above you can see that I have dry fit the first layer to the first spar bay. Nice and snug.

It would have been more efficient if I had run the longer pieces thru the saw at the same time, but it was only 30 deg F in the loft when I arrived (with outside temps dropping rapidly after the front passed) so I was reluctant to open the drape in order to feed the longer pieces into the saw.

I think, rather than gluing the first layer in then coming back and gluing the second, I will fit it all and glue each bay up in one shot, using the top layer to help push down the bottom.

[tony.latham]

Poke me with a stick if you have to, go on, do it.

I might be tempted to throw a campin' pic your way sooner or later. I figure we'll hit a band of spring weather in April and camp at Corn Creek. It's at the end of the Salmon River road and sits at about 3,000'. Other than that, I swear, I'll be good. I swear.



T

[Ned B]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1423198696.641255.jpg (63.84 KiB) Viewed 1267 times

[S. Heisley]

Keep a goin'. (It's not like I could stop you.) You're getting ever closer to the end of the build and ...Poet Creek!

[KCStudly]

Keep a goin'. (It's not like I could stop you.) You're getting ever closer to the end of the build and ...Poet Creek!

[He said sheepishly] It is snowing out again. Today I slept in 'til 3pm and am now sipping hot cocoa with whipped cream and a drizzle of Noble Tonic 01 bourbon barrel aged maple syrup.

[KCStudly]

[He said sheepishly]

Can you hear the guilty tone in my voice?

[S. Heisley]

It's Saturday, a day of rest! Enjoy!