Levelers and Jacks...need advice/sources....

[kayakrguy]

Hi Everyone,

Back to building after a 2 1/2 week hiatus. I am ready to assemble the floor.

Before doing that, I would like to attach scissor jacks to the rear of the frame. Problem: Local trailer supply stores only carry behemouth versions of trailer jacks, which I could use to level the Washington Monument.

Where can you get small versions of scissor jacks?

Also, if scissor jacks are not a practical way to go, what alternative would members recommend for consideration?

Since the bottom of the RT frame is 15 inches from the ground, I need a jack/levelor that has at least 24 inches of maximum lift to be of much use.

Thanks,

Jim

[goldcoop]

Jim-

Check Auto Salvage Yards, some have gotten them there cheap.

And then there's this:

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-j ... ack-rv.htm

BTW: You gonna make a Tearjerkers Event this season?

Cheers,

Coop

[cracker39]

Why do you need 24" lift, unless you plan on camping on a hillside? You don't need to lift the frame up more than an inch on level ground to give you a solid platform.

Practical alternative? I'm not sure my leverlers are any more practical than scissor type. I am using the screw post levelers. They are not designed to jack the trailer up, just steady it. I chose them because they're cheap ($35-$37 per set of 4), easy to use, and I didn't have to weld them to the frame. I just toss them in the storage compartment.

[Ken A Hood]

I bought these;
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-j ... -jacks.htm





Since their lightweight, and the only ones I could afford.................can't go wrong at that price.

When I get my frame welded up I plan on getting them to weld (in the 4 stabilizer locations) some pipe [just larger than the top of the screw] so they won't move/fall off the stabilizer

[48Rob]

Dale,

Since his frame is already 15" off the ground, assuming the closed position of the jack was 3", he needs 12" of travel just to reach the ground to steady the rig.
That only leaves 12" of leveling capacity.
While it might seem a lot, most camp sites (I end up at) require 6-10" on at least one corner to keep things on the level.

The old standby levelers you're using are a good option, but some folks (like me) have a hard time kneeling down to place and adjust them, cranking a handle from a standing position is a lot easier on the knees

Rob

[cracker39]

Those Ken pictured are the type I have. That price is good, but if you have to pay shiping, WalMart may be just as cheap. Luckily, my 67 year old body still bends pretty good. I need the exercise to keep it that way.

[48Rob]

Jim,

Another option woild be to use swing away stabilizers.
They aren't capable of lifting the trailer, but usued in conjunction with the tongue jack, they make for a quick and easy system.

Rob

[kayakrguy]

Some thoughts....

Rob is right, the reason I am looking for 24" lift is that being 15" off the groun, I need the extra 9" to be able to lift AND level. I think I need both.
I already know that the rig will rock side to side in front if it only rests on the tongue jack. Almost got seasick in the garage <g> Besides, I remember we had rock and roll with our old tent trailer!

Coop, the PPL site is one I looked at already and the 6500# jack they feature is one I looked at and thought was WAY too big for my little rig. Mind you it would work but the jacks are nearly 5' wide (end to end) IU checked it out at a local RV supply place.

BTW, if you ever get those T's for vets logos made up for sale, count me in...also to help with build for vets...

As to making a Tearjerker event, we have been looking at the calender. I won't have the T done before mid-August at the earliest. It seems like since deciding to build life has ratcheted up 3 notches--beginning to think there is a 'Tut's curse of T builders' or something <g>

Still looking at the leveling/lift question and surprised by how much this equipment is dominated by the Brontosaurus RV stuff...

Jim

[George Kraus]

kayakrguy

I have not built my tear yet but I was an owner of a fold down where the door is sensitive to leveling. I never used jacks to lift the trailer unless I was changing a tire. I learned (the hard way) level the axel side to side first, use boards under a tire if necessary, then level front to back with the tongue jack. Then use the stabilizers to hold that position. Lifting the frame with a stabilizer stresses the daylight out of a frame, This is not as difficult as it sounds, I used two stick on levels and could setup quickly using this method. Had little problems with settling because all of the weight was still on the axel.

Everybody has their own system and this one worked for me.

George

[48Rob]

Jim,

George makes a good point...I should have mentioned that too

If you look close in the picture, you can see that the wheel is up on wood blocks (just back up onto extra firewood) to get the trailer level side to side.
The drop down stabilizers are then used to maintain front to back level and stability.
With this system, the only "jack" you need is the one on the tongue.
That said, sometimes it is pretty nice to have a jack at each corner...

Rob

[cracker39]

George, That's exactly the method I've used with two pop-ups I've owned. I carried several pieces of 1x6 of different lengths to make a "ramp" to pull one tire up on to level it side to side, then leveled it with the tongue placed the levelers to hold it. My first pop-up was a tent type that didn't have any levelers and I used the ones like the screw type pictured above, which I'm going to use with my TTT. The other had the swingdown type also pictured above. I never really tried to jack it up except at the axle to change tires.

[WhiteRaider]

These work great for motorhomes and are pretty lightweight. They are what I was planning on getting for my TTT.



http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c223/ ... railer.jpg


Cheers!
Rob

[jakie]

I replaced the swing out jacks on my pop up with these bal lightweight trailer jacks. They are much easier to use, and you do not need to worry about tilting the trailer to get the swing out jacks down!

LIGHT TRAILER STABILIZER JACK





For use on tent trailers, lightweight travel trailers and fifth wheels with up to 16" of frame-to-ground clearance.

Includes crank handle (Model 23033).

Ideal replacement for Atwood, Fulton and other non-screw design corner stands.
Bolt-on application; mounting hardware included.
700 lb. lifting capacity and 1,000 lb. load capacity per jack.
Rust-inhibiting E-coating for long life.

[kayakrguy]

jakie,

That looks exactly right for my build! Thank you for the recommendation.

Jim

[Nobody]

JC Whitney has those lightweight BAL jacks for around $60 a pair. I ordered two pairs since I wanted more stability than the tongue jack would provide. Also, JC Whitney has free shipping on orders of more than $75 so if you get two pairs, or one pair & another item to bring the cost up to $75, they'll ship 'em free. They're heavy enough that shipping might be expensive otherwise. Take a look at 'em here http://tinyurl.com/ouvpj