Nope. Some of them have a UV-resistant additive. How well they work I don't know, but with stripper canoes, you keep adding coats of spar varnish as it gets sun damaged instead of sanding into the epoxy/fiberglass layer and causing grief.Do different resins have UV rating like regular human sunblock?
Juneaudave wrote:Welcome!!! I have a couple thoughts....
Epoxy and cloth....I've used West, MAS and RAKA over the years and any of those would work well. I typically buy the slow hardener for clearcoating so I don't have to rush. For cloth on a tear, I like the RAKA 4 oz plain weave. They have good customer service, its cheap and they used to carry 4 oz in a 72 in width (I only saw 60 inch when I checked). I dont think you need 6 oz for strength, and if you go lighter than 4 oz, it gets pretty tender for handling (ie it will snag very easily as you lay it out). Dont rely on my estimate, but I'm guessing epoxy (1 1/2 gallon), cloth, pumps, brushes, rollers, mixing cups and sticks, etc at about $200.
For UV protection, nothing beats a good quality marine spar varnish with periodic maintenance. Having said that, on my tear I shot it down with three layers of auto clear coat. That has worked very well for over 6 years on areas where there is cloth. On the sides of my trailer, I did not use cloth, and the clear coat was too brittle for the movement of the wood. Good spar, or auto clear coat, might cost as much as the epoxy....but I would guess $150 by the time your finished laying on coats and sanding between. Again...dont relyu on my best guess estimate...
Hope that helps!!!
Maybe I'm crazy, but I just don't understand why it would be practical or desirable to build out of wood, and then use GRP as well - why not just build out of GRP (with no wood)
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