Mounting the side wall to the floor?

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Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby DWT77 » Fri Mar 17, 2017 1:33 pm

I am getting close to putting my floor on my trailer and my side walls up. I will have 12 inch storage area under my cabin (Like the Crowswing build). Since I will have the storage area as my air gap for insulation I am not building a flooring deck (ie frame, foam board ect..) My floor will be an exterior grade 3\4 piece of plywood. I plan on sealing it with "the mix" and then bed liner spray both sides of the floor.

I am seeking advice on how to secure the side wall to the floor.

1. Spray the entire floor with bed liner. Then use butyl tape where the middle wall meets the floor and then fasten it with a kreg jig
2. Spray the floor with bed liner but tape off the 1 inch area (with blue painters tape) where the middle wall meets the floor. Then remove the tape and use tight bond III instead of tape, then use a kreg jig to fasten it to the floor.

I guess I am looking for the best way to secure the side wall to the floor and provide a seal. My concern is with the bed liner being rough/bumpy not getting a good seal

Any other thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks

Wayne
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Re: Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby GuitarPhotog » Fri Mar 17, 2017 6:42 pm

I think it's customary to spray the bed liner on the exterior of the bottom, not the interior.
And I don't think you want to use butyl tape where you indicate because as it compresses it will affect your joints.
And you absolutely need to water proof that exposed edge of the vertical cabinet grade plywood under the aluminum. Leaving an exposed plywood edge there will cause the wall to rot from the bottom up.

My $0.02 worth

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Re: Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby QueticoBill » Fri Mar 17, 2017 7:04 pm

I like the systems that attach a spline or tongue to the floor and then leave a groove in the wall by inserting the bottom frame member​.
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Re: Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby DWT77 » Fri Mar 17, 2017 7:26 pm

GuitarPhotog wrote:I think it's customary to spray the bed liner on the exterior of the bottom, not the interior.
And I don't think you want to use butyl tape where you indicate because as it compresses it will affect your joints.
And you absolutely need to water proof that exposed edge of the vertical cabinet grade plywood under the aluminum. Leaving an exposed plywood edge there will cause the wall to rot from the bottom up.

My $0.02 worth

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I am wanting to spray the interior since I will be throwing gear in and out of the storage area. That hopefully will give me a pretty durable surface. Kind of like someone putting tiles, linoleum, laminate flooring ect..

I plan on sealing the edge of the plywood with epoxy. That actually was a concern of mine, if epoxying the edge and then applying tight bond how strong would that bond be.

I am actually using MDO board for the exterior. It will get a primer coat of paint and then the exterior will be bed liner sprayed as well.
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Re: Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby DWT77 » Fri Mar 17, 2017 7:38 pm

QueticoBill wrote:I like the systems that attach a spline or tongue to the floor and then leave a groove in the wall by inserting the bottom frame member​.


Are one of these like what you are talking about?
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Re: Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby QueticoBill » Fri Mar 17, 2017 7:56 pm

Yes. Like the "internal cleat" - with outer panel covering edge of floor and over frame if you like.
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Re: Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby tony.latham » Fri Mar 17, 2017 9:18 pm

I'm not following the butyl tape in a wood joint. I 'd suggest you lay a good bead of PLP glue on all surfaces of that joint and then Kreg screw from either the outside or inside and then another line of screws from under the floor (another advantage of building on a dolly and not on the trailer chassis).

I'm also scratching my head on your cabinet grade 1/2" plywood exterior. If you are building a wall with a 3/4" skeleton inside and sheathing with aluminum. 1/4" Plywood is plenty for this and I would further suggest you look for 1/4" underlayment plywood since it's void free and might be a couple of bucks cheaper.

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(Thats sitting on a dolly by the way)

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:thinking: You're thinking this through. :thumbsup:

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Re: Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby DWT77 » Fri Mar 17, 2017 9:39 pm

I'm not following the butyl tape in a wood joint. I 'd suggest you lay a good bead of PLP glue on all surfaces of that joint and then Kreg screw from either the outside or inside and then another line of screws from under the floor (another advantage of building on a dolly and not on the trailer chassis).My thought was if I spray the entire floor with bed liner then there wouldn't be a wood joint. The 3/4" skeleton wall would be sitting on the bed liner. I thought in that case the butyl tape might work better? PLP glue might work as well though

I'm also scratching my head on your cabinet grade 1/2" plywood exterior. If you are building a wall with a 3/4" skeleton inside and sheathing with aluminum. 1/4" Plywood is plenty for this and I would further suggest you look for 1/4" underlayment plywood since it's void free and might be a couple of bucks cheaper.I am not sheathing with aluminum. My exterior will be Raptor Bed Liner Spray.I suppose I could have went with 1/4" exterior and then bed liner spray it but I liked the added weather protection from the MDO


P.S. Get a copy of Steve Fredrick's Teardrop Shop Manual. I don't know the guy but sometimes I think I'm his head advocate on this forum. I did get a copy of it since it is referenced a lot on the forum

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Re: Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby tony.latham » Fri Mar 17, 2017 9:50 pm

The 3/4" skeleton wall would be sitting on the bed liner.


I get it now. You're chatting with a builder that finished up with a 2.2 GPA in high school.... :frightened: :NC :FNP (I got a B- in football...)

You might toy with masking your floor edges so you can get a good glue joint, not sure if that works with bedliner.

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:thumbsup:

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Re: Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby DWT77 » Fri Mar 17, 2017 10:02 pm

You might toy with masking your floor edges so you can get a good glue joint, not sure if that works with bedliner.


That is what I was thinking. I am going to epoxy the edges of the plywood. Another concern of mine was how strong wood glue and epoxy go together? I need to back and re-read some of the epoxy info. Information overload sometimes lol

Thanks again
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Re: Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby working on it » Fri Mar 17, 2017 11:38 pm

  • I know you're past this stage, but I used the simplest method to attach my walls. My trailer is entirely 3/4" pre-sanded interior grade plywood, bolted with steel hardware, no curved cuts, and only two mitered cuts-the rest of the cuts were straight.
  • I first made a two layer floor, with 1/2" Birch plywood attached to cross beams with 3/8" carriage bolts, followed by 1/4" Luan glued w'Titebond 2 to cover the Birch. Then I used Tek screws to penetrate the floor, screwing around the perimeter into the frame. Bulkhead and frontal piece were bolted on top of the floor, using steel corner brackets and Simpson Strong-ties gusseted angle brackets. All seams were glued together with Loctite PL Premium adhesive in-between floor and vertical pieces, and inside and outside (done later) to ensure watertight joints.
  • The walls, being stood vertically, were placed over the outside edge of the floor, reducing the interior width to 46.5", and inside length to 95.25". Also, I sprayed multiple cans of spray-on undercoating (and continued doing so every time I drilled thru the floor).
  • I didn't have the equipment to fasten the plywood together with rabbets and dadoes or biscuits, and I felt that cutting into, and reducing the strength of the resin-impregnated 3/4" plywood walls, would not add to the robustness of the structure. The angle and corner brackets took the place of internal cleats, so none were used. The only roof spar, was not on the ceiling, but placed in the middle of the front slope, to be used as part of my overhead shelf, holding my stereo & electric main cooling fan (it might also serve as a brace against wind pressure). The only other interior bracing was around each door, the windows, and the A/C unit (mounted thru the rear bulkhead). Those places were braced with 1/2" red oak dimensional lumber, with 1/2" long Spax screws holding the wood to the walls, while the PL adhesive dried between surfaces (the Spax were left in place, since at 1/2" long, they didn't penetrate the outer skin of the trailer.
    carriage bolt to frame in step one.png
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  • front & rear bolted & glued to floor.png
    front & rear bolted & glued to floor.png (482.49 KiB) Viewed 2030 times
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Re: Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby KCStudly » Mon Mar 20, 2017 8:35 am

If sealing with epoxy why not glue with thickened epoxy (after washing amine blush and scuffing)? Better yet, leave the bottom edge of the wall raw until you go to assemble; wet it out, and then bed in thickened epoxy.

Of coarse this means either masking back for the bed liner, or changing the order of operations and doing the bed liner in the compartment after assembly(?).
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Re: Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby DWT77 » Mon Mar 20, 2017 11:26 am

[quote="KCStudly"] Better yet, leave the bottom edge of the wall raw until you go to assemble; wet it out, and then bed in thickened epoxy. quote]

That is what I decided to do. Ordered some raka epoxy and filler yesterday. Thanks for the feedback, I think it will work the best.
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Re: Mounting the side wall to the floor?

Postby earl84 » Tue Mar 21, 2017 9:17 pm

I did a test using Titebond 2 versus PL Premium on 3 surfaces. Wood to wood, wood to epoxy covered wood, and wood to foil-lined insulation. Very simply glued two scraps of plywood together, let dry/cure for several days in 70-80 degree weather and tried to twist/pull/tear apart by hand then with tools if needed.
Wood to wood, both were very strong, no advantage either way. Recommend TB2 for the cost savings, you will use a lot of glue.
Wood foil-lined insulation, both pretty good, but definite advantage to PL Premium.
Wood to epoxy covered wood, no contest. PL Premium held very well, TB2 was a terrible bond. I would not recommend counting on this bond for any strength at all.
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