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pchast wrote::thinking: 2x6 seems heavy? Are you looking for compensating weight for the height?
Don L. wrote:An easier method, less milling of wood.
On this method, glue a 2" rip of 1-1/2" board to the foam edge, wrap with canvas (glued) about 8"up the wall. Then screw it to the floor. Then wrap the final wall covering over that joint and under the floor.
A drip edge is important.
On the underside of my floor I rolled on a coat of aluminum/asphalt roof paint before I put on the walls, , I doubt titebond 2 would stick to that so maybe stop the asphalt paint short of the edge so your glue will adhere the canvas well. Maybe then go over that with asphalt. Just some ideas...
tony.latham wrote:Why OSB?
Cheap factory built trailers use the stuff because they can save a few bucks and compete with the myriad of other producers. it will usually last through their three-year warranty. I would suggest you consider spending a little bit more on an exterior grade plywood and seal the edges.
Tony
Redneck Packrat wrote:tony.latham wrote:Why OSB?
Cheap factory built trailers use the stuff because they can save a few bucks and compete with the myriad of other producers. it will usually last through their three-year warranty. I would suggest you consider spending a little bit more on an exterior grade plywood and seal the edges.
Tony
That was a (passing) fit of ill-advised frugality. I have 5 sheets of the crap---um, stuff---laying around gathering dust. "Hey, I've *GOT* something for the floor!" Nah. Was already decided to get 3/4 plywood, then remembered that I've also got a sheet of really nice 5/8 so I'd only need 2 more to make a floor out of REAL wood instead of floor sweepings. It holds up her chair nicely, I've got a little utility trailer that's floored with completely untreated 5/8 that holds the chair up nicely, and it's got support on 24 inch centers. This will have more support than that.
For 40 bucks, it's not worth the very-likely regret on down the road.
Hey... thanks for clearing the air! Had me scared!
Tony
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