Sorry for taking so long, Dancam, priorities have changed these days... Wheel spacer adapters are 2" wide, don't believe there were any vibration issues. I've read about folks on car forums having vibration issues with lug-centric spacers that went away by using hub-centric plastic adapters, but I didn't bother. The rims are car rims, 14", 4x100mm, 45mm or so offset and balanced. I'm aware that the high offset rims will put more stress on the bearings, we'll just have to see how they do. They survived the big test run, so far so good. I'm not familiar with hub spacers, or hub tear-down and re-assembly yet. With the spacers and rims I'm about 5mm out from zero offset trailer rims.
No airtabs on the tv and trailer yet, but since the move I'm way closer to suppliers now. The tv/trailer combo was really stable with semis passing me but still there is the same pull/push/pull feeling as they go by. When I was just heading out on the maiden voyage I got to drive in typical Vancouver rainy weather, which is saturated humidity, constant but light rain, and wet roads. This was actually perfect for creating a mist to see how the water was flowing around the trailer and I meant to have someone record me from behind but it never happened. What I can say from the drivers perspective is that the leading edge of the trailer, especially the bottom is forcing 'a lot' of wind out to the sides into the lanes on either side of me. However the streamlined roof and tail of the trailer immediately sucks it all back tight to the aft. So I think that snugging up the trailer to the back of the hatch would make a huge improvement as well as installing the air tabs on the trailing edge of the hatch and the trailing edge of the trailer just before the clamshell. Also on the roof line air tabs at the maximum lift spot in the wing will help out too, this is where they are installed on cessnas and other small airplanes to reduce stall speed and improve handling. If the airtabs can streamline the airflow transition from the rear of the hatch past the front wedge of the trailer, a lot less air will 'spill' out to the sides and this will increase mileage and control. I am sure of it, that the worst drag in my setup is this spot after seeing it in the rainy mist.
I don't know spring rates in specific units, but the stock aveo ones were replaced with H&R 50701 sport springs which are a lot stiffer and have a more progressive spring rate. Beyond that can't say much, except that on top of that, the spring rate for the airbags at 17psi has to be added in too. The airbags are meant to be installed within a spring, so if you are running coil-overs you would have to go with self supporting airbags and they are all rated for much heavier weights than the coil-rites (500lbs a side max). Heres the link in text (riderite.com/products, loads a bit slow, scroll down a bit and you'll see the Coil-Rite kit, click on that link and you'll get the detail page). In the vehicle search section my car used to show up but it has since been removed. The coil-rite bags should fit just about any passenger car spring.
Ya my comment about watching aluminum welds fail was to show humbleness, and just admit that re-work is always a part of diy fabrication, but thats often where you learn the most! Frankly I am surprised only two welds cracked! Currently the cabin is off-loaded and stored in the garage - there was barely 1/8" clearance getting it in, but it worked!! The original design work had planned for a few more inches in clearance but it got modified to ensure the RV door would fit. One isn't supposed to have any travel trailer on the driveway in these suburbs where I am at, so to get it into the garage was another great accomplishment. I'll post a pic at the end of this response. Sorry but I won't be able to post the empty weight until next year. I'll guesstimate it at around 600lbs, trailer, frame, and electrical but thats without insulation, so I didn't hit my goal, but was pretty close as I don't think spray foam insulation is very heavy (unlike the acoustic insulation I chose). Any way you cut it, this is a true light-weight trailer with a huge amount of interior volume. I know the next question folks ask is whats the cost - I'm soon to do the master BOL and I bet its going to be a lot less expensive than some think.
Heater is going to be Propex (Heatsource) HS2000.
For electrical going with Progressive Dynamics PD5000 and Tripp Lite PowerVerter RV1250ULHW. This setup will allow me to go solar in the future with 30A MPPT charge controller.
For battery two 6V Trojans is the standard and they are great but waaay heavy! Might go Lithium Ion instead as there are some reviews saying now that the kinks are worked out that they are cheaper in the long run because of the increased charge cycles. Golf courses are starting to do this to their cart fleets so that tells me something. Still, haven't decided yet, but leaning towards lightweight, expensive up-front, Lithium Ion.
Now that the trailer frame is off I can inspect the setup. Tire wear looks normal and non-existent what with only 650lbs or so on each automotive tire. Trailer tracked straight and stayed straight the whole time. It seems to feel more stable the faster you go all the way up to 75mph (and beyond I'm sure) It handles really, really great, but again, you'd have to tow it to really know
Haven't re-checked alignment yet, but planning to do it the same way as last time. From eyeball perspective, alignment appears to be the same, drivers side tire appears to be unchanged, it looks like theres a little bit of camber on the passenger side, enough to need a shim on the half axle, but not enough to be of any concern. I will have to take photos and compare them to the fender photos I took before the trip. I'm pretty impressed with the half axles seeing that they were overloaded for 4500km, and typically won't be loaded that heavy. Well that is, unless I get a heavier axle (or half-axles, next size up is 1200lbs), currently not planning to. I think the independent suspension with half axles is a huge benefit for sway control and bumps. Speed wobbles are harder to introduce on independent suspension, as I said this setup has yet to have one and after well over 5000kms now and light tongue weight tests, I doubt it ever will.
Bumps - ok the tongue needs to be boxed in to beef up that front area where the welds cracked on account of all the stress being directed there. Also going to sister the main tongue beam to further increase strength/rigidity. If I did it again I'd go 3" square tube aluminum, but can work with what I've got. Having said that the trailer handles bumps really well, but there was too much flex in the tongue - it is hoped that sistering the main tongue beam and boxing in the front of the tongue will solve this situation.
No under-coating on the bottom, just bare aluminum tube, sheet, and rivets.
Thats all for this long post - here are the pics:
- just winch and drag cabin on sliders on crazy carpets to clear the garage
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- yikes! it cleared but barely.. probably some garages would be too low this ones 81 1/2" as is
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- aaand there she is on two dollies so its easy to move around to work on (thats a 450lb trailer my Dad bought up top)
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