KCStudly wrote:My FG is my outer structural skin, which will be painted. I have a nice generous 3/4 inch round-over on my profile edges. (Mine's a foamie, but if I were doing it again... or on a traditional build, I would do the same radius in a wood framed edge, at least using blocking between spars like Steve Fredrick's method, rather than just two plywood edges coming together, so there would be enough thickness for the joint and the larger radius). I did my walls first, wrapping the two plies of weave up onto the roof and front wall in a stagger, about 6 inches onto the roof/front for the first ply, and 3 or 4 inches on the second ply. Then when I did the roof and front wall I overlapped the first layer to butt with the second ply of the walls, and the second ply of the roof over lapped that by a couple of inches. That way I only have a narrow strip where there are 3 plies stack up, but all of the seams have at least 2 plies of coverage. This worked best with the width of FG cloth readily available. With the 3/4 inch radius, I did not need the weave to run on a bias. I did orient one of the plies on my hatch on the bias for torsional rigidity. I did the hatch all the same way, laminating it in place with the same overlap technique, then cut it away at the gaps where the hatch gasket and hinge will go.
Thanks KC,
I have used blocking between the spars so I might mock up my wall and try different radius' to see what I like. The most common I have seen are 1/4 and 3/8 radius. A bigger radius did concern me about getting into the framing/spars of the trailer.
On a side note I took the middle ground and did a 5/16 round over on my tongue box a couple of days ago. It did seem a little small to me but like I said I don't have much experience with fiberglass.