Lapping aluminum roofing ( for some "aluminium"..L

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Lapping aluminum roofing ( for some "aluminium"..L

Postby hammer & tongs » Wed Jul 12, 2006 5:54 am

That crack about "aluminium" is just in fun...I truly enjoy input from TD friends around the world !

Now to the point:
My new TD is 4X10..I am getting aluminum rolls in 4 ft widths, but a max of 10 ft long.
Since I am starting at the hitch and going right over the top, I will need to make an "overlap"...

BTW.. the hatch will be "different" and will not be a natural break line.

Please give me any tips you can offer from experience..

Questions:

1) Shall I overlap the sheets at the top vent, since that will be a point of interruption anyway ?

2) What kind of material makes a good seal between the overlapping layers..tar emulsion, calk....or ?

Anything you can offer from experience will be appreciated...

....Thanks gang..
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(1 Peter 2:24b )
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Postby madjack » Wed Jul 12, 2006 10:29 am

H&T...this is how we would do it...overlap, front overback back 2"s over a rib or other spot to get a good solid spot for screws...use auto windsheild adhesive/sealant or some othe poly caulk/sealant, screw down about every 2"...be careful of putting the split at the vent, since the joint will leave a "bump" all the way across...no real problem but make sure there is plenty of sealant at that juncture with the vent and the "bump"...
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Postby angib » Wed Jul 12, 2006 10:47 am

Do you have any sheetmetal workers nearby? This would be the conventional sheetmetal join to use in this location:

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The height has been exaggerated to show the joint - it would follow a gentle roof radius, though probably not something as small as 12". Of course its benefit is that it needs no fasteners (so no leaks) and with a touch of sealant is watertight.

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Postby Melvin » Wed Jul 12, 2006 11:50 am

angib's lap is what I'd do but I wouldn't put it at the vent for two reasons. 1) makes the vent harder to install because you aren't sealing to a flat surface and 2) the vent is usually on a flatish part of the roof, much better to have the joint someplace with some slope to it to minimise the time water has to work it's way past the joint.
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Postby Micro469 » Wed Jul 12, 2006 1:53 pm

Melvin wrote:angib's lap is what I'd do but I wouldn't put it at the vent for two reasons. 1) makes the vent harder to install because you aren't sealing to a flat surface and 2) the vent is usually on a flatish part of the roof, much better to have the joint someplace with some slope to it to minimise the time water has to work it's way past the joint.


Also make sure the joint is placed so the water runs over it rather than in it.(see Anjibs pic.) Hope that is clear.
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Postby Chuck Craven » Wed Jul 12, 2006 4:59 pm

Air Stream trailers us a riveted lap joint with butyl tape between the joint.
You want the lap joint installed so that when you are moving the water moves over the top piece of the lap joint.
Here is where you can get the Butyl tape.
http://www.austinhardware.com/product.a ... %5Fid=3250

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Postby hammer & tongs » Wed Jul 12, 2006 5:24 pm

Thanks for the advice folks, ..
Angib...I wish I had a metal brake to fold that aluminum with...perhaps I'll try to build one for temporary use from a couple pieces of angle iron and some C-clamps.
Yes; the idea of putting the seam at the roof vent was not good, thanks for the keen observation on that !

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