#2

Canvas covered foamies (Thrifty Alternatives...)

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Re: #2

Postby OP827 » Thu Oct 18, 2018 6:24 pm

Looking great and strong! :thumbsup:
My foldable foam trailer build: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=61344
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Re: #2

Postby ghcoe » Thu Oct 18, 2018 6:52 pm

OP827 wrote:Looking great and strong! :thumbsup:


Thanks! :thumbsup:
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Re: #2

Postby jimbo69ny » Mon Dec 03, 2018 10:19 pm

I like it!
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Re: #2

Postby ghcoe » Wed Jan 02, 2019 8:37 pm

Thanks! :thumbsup:
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Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #2

Postby GPW » Thu Jan 03, 2019 6:18 am

George, Great Video , Thanks !!! More proof they don’t “explode" on the road … 8) :thumbsup:

Ever considered mud flaps ??? :thinking:
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Re: #2

Postby dancam » Fri Feb 22, 2019 8:56 pm

Ha, thats funny that you sent me here to comment about mudflaps and the previous comment is about just that :)
I didnt realize that video was from you. Here are a few photos of what i did. I clamped some angle iron onto the old spring bracket. I took heavy truck mudflaps and cut them to the size i wanted. I cut them so that loaded they were like 1 inch off the ground because my trailer is long. You can see that in the last photo. Had to be careful backing up.
The only problem i ever had was when the spring broke on my axle. I had not trimmed the bolts holding the mudflap on and the axle went up and back and jammed against the angle iron. The bolts shredded the tire and it pushed the angle iron through the plastic fender. For the rest of the trip they worked perfect. Kept all the mud and rocks off the expensive paint :)
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Re: #2

Postby dancam » Fri Feb 22, 2019 9:08 pm

Dont know why that last photo didnt work, ill try again. Nice video by the way!
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Re: #2

Postby ghcoe » Fri Feb 22, 2019 9:10 pm

dancam wrote:Ha, thats funny that you sent me here to comment about mudflaps and the previous comment is about just that :)
I didnt realize that video was from you. Here are a few photos of what i did. I clamped some angle iron onto the old spring bracket. I took heavy truck mudflaps and cut them to the size i wanted. I cut them so that loaded they were like 1 inch off the ground because my trailer is long. You can see that in the last photo. Had to be careful backing up.
The only problem i ever had was when the spring broke on my axle. I had not trimmed the bolts holding the mudflap on and the axle went up and back and jammed against the angle iron. The bolts shredded the tire and it pushed the angle iron through the plastic fender. For the rest of the trip they worked perfect. Kept all the mud and rocks off the expensive paint :)
Image
Screenshot_20190222-191955_Gallery.jpeg
Screenshot_20190222-192002_Gallery.jpeg
Screenshot_20190222-192052_Gallery.jpeg
ImageImageImage

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


Ah, funny how we bump into each other. I actually remember looking at that on your build. Followed along on your trip too. I will look into mud flaps or deflectors on the front of the trailer at some point. Luckily the paint cleaned up quite nice... this time. I am planning on bigger wheels so I might have to wait. I was thinking something similar since I will have to install bigger fenders and was looking at adding angle iron like you did for your flaps. Thanks for stopping by and watching the video! George.
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Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #2

Postby JazzVinyl » Thu Aug 08, 2019 3:33 pm

I realize that #2 is built and in the history books...I really like what I see.

But, in the first message of this thread, it appeared that you would leave some room to store some gear on the outside of the sleeping compartment.

That is what I want, a "sleeper" big enough for one (me) and still have some room on the deck to store some gear. I like to carry a "changing tent", for instance, and a few other items.

I realize that if you leave room up front, (let's say 21 inches), that this will interfere with your door, as the fenders will be too close.

So let's say we leave 21 inches in the rear, for some cargo. Install a small cargo box, and place the spare tire on the tongue (to balance weight).

What are the potential caveats, of a design like this that I have not thought of?

Inability to build to the rear trailer edge, and water runoff is one, what else comes to mind?

Cheers...
.
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Re: #2

Postby ghcoe » Thu Aug 08, 2019 8:01 pm

JazzVinyl wrote:I realize that #2 is built and in the history books...I really like what I see.

But, in the first message of this thread, it appeared that you would leave some room to store some gear on the outside of the sleeping compartment.

That is what I want, a "sleeper" big enough for one (me) and still have some room on the deck to store some gear. I like to carry a "changing tent", for instance, and a few other items.

I realize that if you leave room up front, (let's say 21 inches), that this will interfere with your door, as the fenders will be too close.

So let's say we leave 21 inches in the rear, for some cargo. Install a small cargo box, and place the spare tire on the tongue (to balance weight).

What are the potential caveats, of a design like this that I have not thought of?

Inability to build to the rear trailer edge, and water runoff is one, what else comes to mind?

Cheers...
.


Yes. I would imagine that you could build either way. If you moved the body to the rear you could make a rear entrance door. Everything would stay the same if you opted to move the storage area to the rear for the cabin. If I was to use the rear for storage I would leave the floor open and just used like a rear hitch cargo carrier bolted to the frame that way water could not pool anywhere.

Things to consider:
-I placed the door where I did so that it is easy to get into the trailer. With where they are at all you have to do is sit and then swing in, pivoting on your butt, and you are in the sleeping position already. No need to readjust. On the shorter version, like I posted earlier, you would have to crawl into the sleeping position.
-Rear doors you will have to crawl in and out of the sleeping position.
-Rear doors do not allow easy extra storage on the back such as bike racks, cargo carriers, spare tires.
-The rear is more dusty than the sides.

With that said my first post was actually a smaller unit than what I had built. It was 6'1/2" and in that configuration the HF frame would have needed to be shortened and I had planned to add a tongue extension to be able to add the items on the tongue. In this configuration you could also add a cargo carrier to the rear.

My actual build is a full 4'x8' HF build and is a work in progress. Taking my time first to see if it is truly capable of long term off road use, which it is doing just fine. I have upgraded the tires/wheels to 13" and have added a extended tongue/frame stiffener. 2'x2" tube steel that runs full length under the HF frame and ends with a 2" rear receiver. This addition is needed for off road usage especially since I will be eventually moving the axle back to clear bigger tires in the future. In it's current configuration I am finding that it really does everything I wanted it to do. Most of the camp gear rides inside and it is unloaded at destination points. I can literally set up and tear down camp in under 5 minutes. So most modes now will be just because I can do it.

This would be a closer representation to what I am trying to achieve now. Probably will not have the extra window in the shown position though.

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Bug Out Long
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Good luck, George.
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Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #2

Postby JazzVinyl » Fri Aug 09, 2019 8:01 am

Hello George...

Yes, agree with your door placement, to avoid the "crawl". Also think your 2 inch tube "tongue extender and trailer strengthener" is superb! Can't wait to see photos.

You did not show details of the wood surrounding the entry door...would like to see that, as well.

I might the ability need to charge camera batts inside the sleeping cabin, what is the best way to bring the 12V inside?

Also, how big a deal is condensation when sleeping in the foamie?

Appreciate
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Re: #2

Postby ghcoe » Fri Aug 09, 2019 9:08 pm

JazzVinyl wrote:Hello George...

Yes, agree with your door placement, to avoid the "crawl". Also think your 2 inch tube "tongue extender and trailer strengthener" is superb! Can't wait to see photos.

You did not show details of the wood surrounding the entry door...would like to see that, as well.

I might the ability need to charge camera batts inside the sleeping cabin, what is the best way to bring the 12V inside?

Also, how big a deal is condensation when sleeping in the foamie?

Appreciate


Here are some pictures of the tongue improvement. Using 2"x2" tube strengthens the frame by spreading the up and down forces on the hitch across the entire trailer rather than the few inches of the original tongue. By attaching the 2"x2" tube to each cross member of the trailer it spreads the pulling stresses across the entire trailer. This alos adds, if you wish, a receiver tube at the rear so you can add accessories or provide a pulling point for vehicle extraction if needed.

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Tube installed
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New tongue
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I don't have any pictures of the wood around the door area. I will describe it since it is very simple. I took a soldering gun and melted a 1 1/2" x 1/4" channel into the middle of the foam wall up to where the radiuses started on all four sides. I then cut 1" wide pieces of hardboard and cut them to the proper length to fit into the channel I melted out. I pushed these pieces in and then used caulk to fill in the channel so that no water could infiltrate. I then installed the door and screwed the screws through the foam into the hardboard. This basically changed a flush mount door into a improvised clamp ring type door. The inside garnish I mounted the same way. Just be carful to just snug the screws up and not strip them out or create too much clamping force to distort the foam.

There are many ways to bring in 12v into the trailer. In this build, before I installed the door I drilled a hole through the foam near the bottom of the door opening through the foam and floor. I then installed a shallow electrical box above the door and drilled through the top of the door cutout into the electrical box. Once the door is installed it hides the wire running in from the bottom and going out at the top of the door opening. You could install a box in other locations as long as you have a drill long enough to go from the door opening to the box. This is simple and easy to do. You could just drill a hole into a wall or floor to run wires though too. Or if you really want to get fancy you can channel the foam and install wires inside the walls and then replace the foam you channeled out. I did this on my #1 build.

I have had condensation on every trip so far. No real issue has come from it though. Really the only areas the condensation accumulates is around the door and window. I usually sleep with the window cracked maybe a 1/2" if at all. I have no roof vent, which I think is a good thing since if would probably attract condensation which then could drip on you and your bedding. I have corner vents that can not be closed so that is really the only ventilation I have with the window closed. The walls, being insulated, must not change temp enough to collect condensation or being canvas covered might hold the water better. All I can say is that I have not been annoyed by condensation.

Hope this helps, George.
George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #2

Postby JazzVinyl » Thu Sep 05, 2019 7:51 pm

ghcoe wrote:Here are some pictures of the tongue improvement. Using 2"x2" tube strengthens the frame by spreading the up and down forces on the hitch across the entire trailer rather than the few inches of the original tongue. By attaching the 2"x2" tube to each cross member of the trailer it spreads the pulling stresses across the entire trailer. This also adds, if you wish, a receiver tube at the rear so you can add accessories or provide a pulling point for vehicle extraction if needed.


I love the tongue improvement, George.
Did you have the extra tube welded, or bolted? What is a ballpark cost of the tongue improvement?

Appreciate!!
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Re: #2

Postby ghcoe » Thu Sep 05, 2019 9:17 pm

I know a welder so in my case it was about $100.00 for materials, both receiver tubes and 2"x2" tube steel. I chose to install receiver tubes on both sides so that I can change out the hitch types too. I have a standard 2" ball for mild road travel, but if the going gets tough I can switch out to a pintel hitch. If you do not need that option you can save a few coin.
George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #2

Postby ghcoe » Sun Sep 15, 2019 10:38 pm

Water crossing test.....Check!

Water was deep and swift enough to push #2 sideways. Don't worry camp gear and bedding where still dry. Not a drop of water got inside.... :thumbsup:

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water crossing
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George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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