*I looked at that chart, and the ones on E-trailer.com and Discount Tire, also, and find a lot of different specs for various sizes. Some that I don't agree with, like for the S-10, and Chevelle at 80 ft-lbs...would loosen up too easily, in my experience.
*Over the years, I've owned so many different vehicles, wheels, and lug nut types, I've just started to standardize, and use 100 ft-lbs for everything (except for 140 ft-lbs for my eight-lug 2500HD Silverado, and 130 ft-lbs for 5/8" drive-lugs on a set of alloy axle half-shafts on a 12-bolt Chevy drag race rear end). Even the factory recommendation for our Chevy Cobalt and HHR Panel specifies 100 ft-lbs (any tighter will warp the brake rotors!).
*In my book, a little extra torque holds them tighter and more secure, rather than not tight enough, which can lead to death-wobble (a lesson I learned from using improperly tightened Cragar SS Uni-lugs!). But, the caveat is to use the correct lug nuts to match the wheels, and a proper torque wrench, and not to go "Gorilla" upon tightening them (I snapped two, at a race, using another guy's wrench, many moons ago).
*My 4x8 squareback TTT has 14" steel wheels, and I use 100 ft-lbs on the lug nuts. They never loosen, though I do re-check them before every trip. And I also carry a cheap-ish torque wrench along, JIC. Using old 4-ways, and the lug nut tools that came with our vehicles is good enough for emergency use, but the accuracy gained by using a torque wrench (even a cheap HF, Amazon, or NT one, if in good working order) is better, overall.
- my newest torque wrench, for tire-changing and general use
- e-tork.JPG (64.27 KiB) Viewed 1655 times