bdosborn wrote:Kerry,
Here's a picture of the circuit breaker I got. Its the same size as a regular 20A panel mounted breaker but has mounting feet and covers for the lugs.
Definately saves a lot of space over having to mount a box for a circuit breaker. The bottom cover is off so you can just see the lug underneath. I ordered a ring terminal kit to replace the lug but it hasn't come in yet. I'll still need some sort of cover for the end as you could stick something in there and hit the lug. It will also mount on a DIN rail. I got the high magnetic inrush model in case I add air conditioning sometime in the future.
Bruce
MtnDon wrote:A regulator can't boost low voltage so low voltage is just time to turn things off.
ukewarrior wrote:Can someone tell me the difference, for our use, in this Square-D breaker and these very inexpensive panel mounted breakers?
Other than the 15A vs. 20A rating. Won't they both do the same job with proper mounting and protection?
Any reason you can't mount the panel mount breaker on an electrical box with cover?
I'm thinking the units below are what's used in fused power strips.
http://www.bgmicro.com/FUS1003.aspx
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19437
if I’m using a 30 amp inline fuse between the switch and the battery?
tearlurker wrote:Yeah I’m not sure what I’m asking either; these threads tend to go off on tangents throughout the years. What I was referring to was something someone mentioned earlier in one of their plans about having a master switch immediately after the battery. Someone else suggested having the master switch come after the circuit breaker (battery-breaker-master switch) I don’t know where I came up with 30 amps. I have a bunch of 12 AWG that I want to use which is rated for 15 amps I think. I’m going from the battery to a circuit breaker to my fuse block and then on to my lights and fan. I want to add a master switch but I’m not sure what to buy. For what it worth, I really like this site and have learned a lot from it but it really could use a good cleaning. Lots and lots of dead links, expired pictures and posts that reference posts that have been removed.
Thanks.
A 20 amp toggle switch would work.
MtnDon wrote:A 20 amp toggle switch would work.
Just make sure the switch is rated for DC use. When disconnecting a DC circuit there is a much larger electric arc with DC than with AC. (AC is cycling 60 times a second from full power thru zero to full and back again. That makes the arc much smaller.)
If there is power flowing while the switch is flipped that arc can severely burn the contacts. It is possible to weld them shut. That goes for breakers too; use a DC rated breaker, switch or fuse.
dbhosttexas wrote:First off, fantastic work on the diagram! It is very nice to see someone take the time to do it right.
My only thoughts revolve around the cabin wiring schematic.
#1. Why the master fuse prior to the fuse panel? Seems redundant to me.
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