Salem Vent question

[Carolina_coast99]

I did not find a lot of information on the site specifically about Salem vents, so I thought I would ask...

When I place my trailer order; I plan to possibly substitute a front window with a Salem vent (metal construction with open and close capabilities) for a vent path of fresh air. I was only originally considering the front window for its ability to crack open when I need cross flow circulation to my rear window located in the rear trailer bathroom area; or if the trailer ends up being "sealed" to tight after my insulation work. (There will be no roof vents). One drawback i can see- there is no screen for bugs. Is this a big deal, do bugs (flying or crawling) make their way through these while open- especially if I were to leave open during storage? <or a mouse..?>
Also:
Does water come in through the vent while open or closed? When driving down highway, or just sitting while camping?

Would it be advised to mount in a horizontal fashion as opposed to the standard vertical mount in an effort fo reduce chance of water intrusion? - I will not be using this in the standard sense with one mounted high and one low on opposed walls- for air while going down road....
Thank you in advance for any input!

[working on it]

* I considered using these "Salem" pop-up vents, but wasn't quite sure of how waterproof they would be.

I wasn't sure if leaving these vents open full-time was OK for waterproof use

pop-up Salem vent from etrailer.com.JPG (48.1 KiB) Viewed 2639 times

* Instead, I chose another type I was familiar with, a steel vent that I knew could be left open, and remain waterproof under all conditions. When I purchased my four, these were offered in a galvanized finish, which was OK for my exposed-hardware, post-industrial motif.

these now come in white, which I guess could be painted to match other color schemes

sidewall-mounted Polar waterproof vent, from etrailer.com.JPG (45.44 KiB) Viewed 2639 times

* I use three for ambient air venting (two in the cabin, and one in the galley), and installed plastic screen-door mesh under the butterfly opening inside, to ward off insects. I leave them open all the time, sometimes reducing the openings in the cabin vents (to reduce any loss of cooling, when the A/C is used). They remain waterproof after many years. The fourth vent is actually used as a cover for the A/C exhaust vent, so it's not required to be waterproof or insect free. The two cabin vents have reversible, two-speed 12vdc computer case fans on swing-away mounts, that I can use for forced ventilation if my 110vac main fan & A/C are not being used.

multiple usage of sidewall-mounted vents

usage of rain-proof vents.jpg (203.08 KiB) Viewed 2639 times

* I noticed these vents on some over-the-road trailers (when I was in shipping-receiving), and they never showed signs of water intrusion from highway driving, whereas some other types did. Since they were intended for use on metal-walled trailers (probably not for my 3/4" plywood-walled TTT), I'm sure they would work well in your conversion.

[Carolina_coast99]

* I considered using these "Salem" pop-up vents, but wasn't quite sure of how waterproof they would be.

pop-up Salem vent from etrailer.com.JPG

* Instead, I chose another type I was familiar with, a steel vent that I knew could be left open, and remain waterproof under all conditions. When I purchased my four, these were offered in a galvanized finish, which was OK for my exposed-hardware, post-industrial motif.

sidewall-mounted Polar waterproof vent, from etrailer.com.JPG

* I use three for ambient air venting (two in the cabin, and one in the galley), and installed plastic screen-door mesh under the butterfly opening inside, to ward off insects. I leave them open all the time, sometimes reducing the openings in the cabin vents (to reduce any loss of cooling, when the A/C is used). They remain waterproof after many years. The fourth vent is actually used as a cover for the A/C exhaust vent, so it's not required to be waterproof or insect free. The two cabin vents have reversible, two-speed 12vdc computer case fans on swing-away mounts, that I can use for forced ventilation if my 110vac main fan & A/C are not being used.

usage of rain-proof vents.jpg

* I noticed these vents on some over-the-road trailers (when I was in shipping-receiving), and they never showed signs of water intrusion from highway driving, whereas some other types did. Since they were intended for use on metal-walled trailers (probably not for my 3/4" plywood-walled TTT), I'm sure they would work well in your conversion.

I like that 10x12" vent a lot. And good price. Thank you.

[Carolina_coast99]

* I considered using these "Salem" pop-up vents, but wasn't quite sure of how waterproof they would be.

pop-up Salem vent from etrailer.com.JPG

* Instead, I chose another type I was familiar with, a steel vent that I knew could be left open, and remain waterproof under all conditions. When I purchased my four, these were offered in a galvanized finish, which was OK for my exposed-hardware, post-industrial motif.

sidewall-mounted Polar waterproof vent, from etrailer.com.JPG

* I use three for ambient air venting (two in the cabin, and one in the galley), and installed plastic screen-door mesh under the butterfly opening inside, to ward off insects. I leave them open all the time, sometimes reducing the openings in the cabin vents (to reduce any loss of cooling, when the A/C is used). They remain waterproof after many years. The fourth vent is actually used as a cover for the A/C exhaust vent, so it's not required to be waterproof or insect free. The two cabin vents have reversible, two-speed 12vdc computer case fans on swing-away mounts, that I can use for forced ventilation if my 110vac main fan & A/C are not being used.

usage of rain-proof vents.jpg

* I noticed these vents on some over-the-road trailers (when I was in shipping-receiving), and they never showed signs of water intrusion from highway driving, whereas some other types did. Since they were intended for use on metal-walled trailers (probably not for my 3/4" plywood-walled TTT), I'm sure they would work well in your conversion.

I like that 10x12" vent a lot. And good price. Thank you.

How would the hole be cut out on an aluminum skinned trailer with plywood brace backing between ribs? Would a hole saw that big be the best route?

[hankaye]

Carolina_coast99, Howdy;

Those "Salem Vents" you show in the top pic. in your 1st post is exactly what are used
by Paccar when they assemble Peterbuilt and Kenworth tractors. They are the rectangular
vents on the sides of the sleepers. They work great.

hank

[working on it]

...How would the hole be cut out on an aluminum skinned trailer with plywood brace backing between ribs? Would a hole saw that big be the best route?

* I cut all my larger openings (vents, windows, A/C mounting hole, and even my door cut-outs) using a Rotozip with a circle guide, or with a guide jig for the larger rectangular openings. I tried free-handing, but it was hard to keep a straight line. That was thru one thickness of 3/4" plywood (or two when I cut out the doors at the same time, stacked together). I've also used the Rotozip metal cutting bits when cutting race-car metal interiors, so I know it does work (though the guides are a must).

Rotozip guide, and bit for metal.jpg (70.03 KiB) Viewed 2578 times

[Iconfabul8]

I cut the shape out of the wood first, then use the wood as a guide for the roto-zip. Run the smooth part of the shank against the wood and away you go. Oh, drill a start hole first.



Build Post pictures are from
More in depth description

[Carolina_coast99]

...How would the hole be cut out on an aluminum skinned trailer with plywood brace backing between ribs? Would a hole saw that big be the best route?

* I cut all my larger openings (vents, windows, A/C mounting hole, and even my door cut-outs) using a Rotozip with a circle guide, or with a guide jig for the larger rectangular openings. I tried free-handing, but it was hard to keep a straight line. That was thru one thickness of 3/4" plywood (or two when I cut out the doors at the same time, stacked together). I've also used the Rotozip metal cutting bits when cutting race-car metal interiors, so I know it does work (though the guides are a must).

Rotozip guide, and bit for metal.jpg

I hadn't seen one of these. Thank you. I'm getting one!

[Carolina_coast99]

I cut the shape out of the wood first, then use the wood as a guide for the roto-zip. Run the smooth part of the shank against the wood and away you go. Oh, drill a start hole first.



Build Post pictures are from
More in depth description

I Really appreciate the tip here! Thanks.
How did you anchor the plywood to the thin aluminum initially? Is the wood supported by the insulation and just glued to the aluminum skin...?

[Carolina_coast99]

Carolina_coast99, Howdy;

Those "Salem Vents" you show in the top pic. in your 1st post is exactly what are used
by Paccar when they assemble Peterbuilt and Kenworth tractors. They are the rectangular
vents on the sides of the sleepers. They work great.

hank

Great, thank you.
Would it be reasonable to just have the factory install? I'm trying to envision how the insulation and final interior layer will work with a pre existing vent... or would it be wise to wait and install the vent after I add 2" of insulation ...?

[Iconfabul8]

I Really appreciate the tip here! Thanks.
How did you anchor the plywood to the thin aluminum initially? Is the wood supported by the insulation and just glued to the aluminum skin...?

The wood inserts were screwed to the inside sheeting. The inside sheeting was then routered using the wood inserts again as guides. I may have put some silicon between the aluminum siding and the wood inserts, can"t remember for sure. It would definitely help keep the metal shavings out from between the wood and aluminum. The secret to this method is that you have to make sure the wood inserts are exactly the same size(thickness) as the foam and studs.