proposed DIY stabilizers for the Nutmeg, a 750lb lightweight

[Bob Hammond]

Hello,

There's been a whole lot a shakin' goin' on, and it's not always the fun kind.

Here's my concept for lightweight stabilizers. Please refer to the text and sketch, and comment.

1. A forged eyebolt (for strength) will be fitted to the center of the rear crossbeam.
2. Two legs will be cut from Unistrut, and fitted with rocking skid-feet that can adjust to the ground. Holes for pivot bolts will be drilled at the other end.
3. Holes (or plates) for the pivot bolts will be fabricated at the ends of the crossbeam where the legs attach.
4. The legs will be fitted with pivot bolts to swing freely from the crossbeam.
5. Web ratchet straps will be placed between the feet and the eyebolt, and drawn to adjust the height of the trailer on either side, independently.
6. For road travel, the legs and straps can be removed and stowed inside or in the tow vehicle.

This arrangement will allow quick and easy adjustment to level the trailer on uneven ground. And I believe that the straps have plenty of strength.

Any comments?

[Bob Hammond]

I think the eyebolt can be eliminated.

I could just hook the ratchet strap to the pivot bolt of the opposite leg - e.g. diagonally from the curbside leg/foot to the streetside pivot bolt or its mounting plate.

[David H.]

Google Valterra stabilizer stand. Lots of places sell them. No you don't need the eyebolt.

[halfdome, Danny]

I put rear stabilizers on the first teardrop I built and never had a need to use them.
It’s basically a sleeper and if you have good suspension their not needed.
If the ground is not level then I’ll put a block of wood under the low side tire ( while it’s still hooked to the tow vehicle ) and level front to back with the tongue wheel.
If it were a Standie then they would make sense.
Danny

[tony.latham]

I put rear stabilizers on the first teardrop I built and never had a need to use them.

My first teardrop made by Hunter had those things too... I used them perhaps three times.

T

[working on it]

* I hardly ever use my stabilizers (self-built pipe-clamp stabilizers), since:

• 1) I don't even unhook my truck 90% of the time (because my Weight Distribution spring bar has so much pre-load on it, that it's a bear to get off and back on), and the truck/trailer is so level as towed, then why should I bother?,
• 2) When I do unhook, I have a scissor jack AND removable tongue jack both mounted in front, so I'll simply lower the front end, drop my two self-regulating pipe-clamp stabilizers to the ground, then lift the tongue until it's level (actually with a 5 degree rearward tilt, for better water run-off),
• 3) The pads where I camp (state parks) are so level, no adjustment are needed at all.

* Of course, since I camp solo, and don't care if the trailer has a marked tilt to it, leveling isn't a necessary set-up item. I made the pipe-clamp units for near-effortless use. They'll support 1200 lbs easily, so combined with the 2400 lb scissor jack under the tongue (+1000 lbs more, if the detachable tongue jack with jockey wheel was also used), I could lift the whole thing off the ground, if leveling became difficult.

* I've only set-up on uneven ground once, on a day-trip, so I tried using my old Chevelle bumper jack, in conjunction with the aforementioned items, to level it, just to see how difficult it would be. I pulled the trailer onto a hummock, with the scissor jack and the right trailer wheel about level. After releasing the the right side stabilizer to touch solid ground, I adjusted the scissor jack so I got my favored 5 degree tilt; then, using my bumper jack (I could also have used my Hi-Lift), I raised the left rear to just above level, and released it, too. When the bumper jack was removed, the trailer sat level, all around. Personally, I don''t think that it was worth the minimal effort.

my method to level my pipe-clamp stabilized trailer on uneven ground.png (122.86 KiB) Viewed 5445 times

pipe-clamp stabilizer.jpg (143.54 KiB) Viewed 5445 times

[Bob Hammond]

The suspension on my trailer is very supple - H-D spring-shocks, and so it definitely wiggles when anyone inside moves. Btw, it tows well- no sway at 75mph, and no sway from semis in the next lane whether coming or going.

I'd looked at the Valterra stabilizer with the 250lb weight rating. Aside from that, the problem I see with that is that it doesn't allow independent lift for uneven ground.

I think I'll do a mockup with 2x4s. Who knows, with a good curve on the feet, they might be the final version.

[Bob Hammond]

Here's what I actually did, which is simple and light in weight.

I scavenged the jackscrews from a pair of Camco aluminum jackstands and fitted them into a pipe. Then I cut the pipe to length for the struts and drilled them at one end to accept 3/8" pivot bolts that pass through the trailer's frame C-channel. The jackscrews drop out for road travel and the pipe struts swing up into the C-channel and are secured.

Because turning the jackscrew nuts with a mechanic's wrench would be very tedious, I made a 9" 'handwheel wrench' from baltic birch plywood that slips over the strut and grips the nut. I hardened the hex cavity of the handwhell with DAP Rapidfuse superglue. It works much faster than a standard wrench.

[Wolfgang92025]

I have a pair on my trailer and only used them a couple of times in the last 9 years.

[Bob Hammond]

Again, if you saw how soft the suspension on my trailer is, then you'd understand. It's very stable on the highway, but when in camp, any movement inside the trailer makes it wiggle and shake. They're definitely an improvement for sleeping comfort.

[Socal Tom]

I have a pair on my trailer and only used them a couple of times in the last 9 years.

I use mine every time I disconnect the TV.


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[Bob Hammond]

I have a pair on my trailer and only used them a couple of times in the last 9 years.

I use mine every time I disconnect the TV.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For my trailer, there is no difference with or without connection to the tow vehicle (or the television )

[Pinstriper]

I am pretty sure if I used a WD hitch I could lift the entire teardrop off the ground.

I have a pair of screw stands that I could use to stabilize, but never have. I also mostly leave it connected to the truck as I am just overnighting.


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[Socal Tom]

I have a pair on my trailer and only used them a couple of times in the last 9 years.

I use mine every time I disconnect the TV.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For my trailer, there is no difference with or without connection to the tow vehicle (or the television )

I frequently camp in the desert, strong winds are common. Having the jacks down keeps the shaking down. It also helps level my stove.


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[tony.latham]

I'm wondering if this isn't a springs vs. torsion axle issue?

T