flboy wrote:aggie79 wrote:Regarding the drain hole, there isn’t one. Window units are designed so that the condensate from the evaporator coil collects in a lowered portion of the floor pan just interior to the condenser coil. The condenser fan spins into the pool of condensate and “slings” the condensate onto the condenser coil.
It does this for efficiency, but it can be noisy and there is no control of the water once it gets thrown onto and through the condenser coil.
If you want a drain, you’ll need to drill a hole in the lowered portion of the floor pan. Just be sure to not drill into the coils or refrigerant lines.
Harry, that is the way my AC was also. If you decide to put drain in, be careful as mentioned. I put one in because I did not like the noise and also, being in a high humidity state, the water may not evaporate quick enough to keep up and I do not want leaking in the trailer. Hanging out a window, it would not matter if it overflowed....
* My window A/C unit never drips, which sorta makes me mad because of the effort I put into making a drain pan and outlet for overflow, but I didn't expect it to, anyway. It's an LG 5k unit, and since I already had experience using an 8k btu LG A/C in my wife's old home office, I knew that there would likely be little overflow, if any. But, I did drill a 1/4" drain hole just to be safe, even though my LG 5012J unit didn't require one (as opposed to a similar model LW 5012).
- LG model LW5012.JPG (56.92 KiB) Viewed 3114 times
* The way I enclosed the exhaust and routed it out to the right in an insulated duct may explain some of the reason for no excess moisture. The exhaust enclosure retains enough heat to evaporate excess (not being used to cool the coils via the inner fan), but having a high flow inline axial fan in the duct expels the retained heat fast enough to prevent moisture build-up and/or thermal shutdown.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=54945&hilit=thermal* In any case, the A/C system works fine, never drips, and was worth the time invested in it, though the right angle ducting could've been replaced with a box attached to the rear hatch, with exhausting louvers thru it (so it would still function at night with the hatch closed).
installed in rear bulkhead
right angle vent boot attached
8" diameter outlet, to be reduced to 6" ducting
drain pan and overflow outlet tube
as completed (at first)
as it is now, years later
My plan is to use a custom size louvered vent with a baffle to seperate the intake from exhaust. My concern is would the intake suck in the exhaust and make the AC work harder. Thought about going thru floor but the refrigerator goes under my AC and there isn't a real large cavity behind the fridge to allow for sufficient intake air (at most 3" between wall and back of fridge 60" tall).
, then ducted the side evaporator cooling vents to another port. These are cheap $37 plastic marine portholes from Amazon. I needed something that would seal up well since they are on the front and subject to driving rain at times, and they seem to fit the bill. Have not tested them for water leaks yet tho. Sealed them with butyl tape. 
