replacing walls / sealing

[Draygo]

Hi all,
I have taken on the task of replacing the badly rotted walls in my teardrop. Upon deconstruction, I noticed that the builder of the trailer (not me), used some sort of silicone to adhere the metal edging to the wood.
My goal is to tear off the wall, use the metal as a stencil on new, weather-treated wood, and rebuild the trailer. What would be good to seal the edges of the wood and corners when I go to replace the metal? I will add pictures below.

The hatch is in great shape, the floor is good too, sealed with something on the bottom. The roof is masonite and is also in relatively good shape. The sides? see for yourself...

Thanks!
Amy

[Pmullen503]

I'd carefully check that joint between walls and floor. I'd be surprised if you had sound wood left to attach your new walls.

Replacing the sides while trying to save the roof and floor will be a big job. You might be better off building from scratch.

If starting fresh is not an option, it might make more sense to remove just the truly rotten wood (not merely discolored), encapsulate everything that's left with penetrating epoxy and section in new plywood in the rotten areas.

Then use a true bedding compound like Sikaflex to bed and attach the trim. Silicone is not the same as bedding compound.

Either way, a big job.

[saywhatthat]

need to replace are add to hatch hinge That cause the trouble

[Juneaudave]

need to replace are add to hatch hinge That cause the trouble

I agree about that hinge needing repair/replacement. You can see where it has been leaking. Maybe it is possible to just remove the hatch, then replace the walls one side at a time.

[Draygo]

need to replace are add to hatch hinge That cause the trouble

I agree about that hinge needing repair/replacement. You can see where it has been leaking. Maybe it is possible to just remove the hatch, then replace the walls one side at a time.

That's actually my plan. There is a 1x2 piece of wood that was sandwiched between the walls where the hatch is. It didn't hold, so I am going to get a longer one and notch out the walls so there is some more strength.

[Pmullen503]

That hinge should really extend a inch or so beyond the walls so any water the hinge collects is drained beyond the hatch. It should also be bedded in Sikaflex.

[Draygo]

That hinge should really extend a inch or so beyond the walls so any water the hinge collects is drained beyond the hatch. It should also be bedded in Sikaflex.

Unfortunately, I didn't build the trailer, but there was an aluminum angle (already removed) that was installed that did extend past the edge of the walls on both sides. I think it only extended about 1/2" on both sides.

Based on the responses, SikaFlex is the way to go on sealing the edges of the wood before replacing the metal? Or is there something else?

[tony.latham]

Or is there something else?

I vote for Raka thin epoxy. It soaks into the wood and plasticizes it.



Tony

[Pmullen503]

The Sikaflex is just for bedding metal parts to wood. If water leaks around that joint you can get rot in the wood and corrosion on the metal.

The wood should be sealed with epoxy or "the mix" (which is several coats of thinned polyurethane) before any metal is attached.

[Juneaudave]

Being in the Vancouver/Portland area, you can go by any marine supply store (West Marine, in example) and buy epoxy from manufacturers other than Raka. West Systems, MAS, System Three, and US Composites are all great brands but may be more expensive. You can order Raka Epoxy online. http://www.raka.com/epoxy_kits.html. The advantage to Raka is low cost (and it works well).

If you decide to go with epoxy to seal the edges, it may be cheap insurance and worth buying enough to roll a layer or two over the entire surface of the ply to prevent moisture from getting in. That is not as necessary in a lot of the arid west...but Vancouver stays damp a lot and your trailer is a prime example of what can happen.

For the trim, the same marine supply stores that carry epoxy will carry Sikaflex for bedding. RV stores will carry it too. There are different compounds of Sikaflex for different applications, so read the labels. For windows, I prefer butyl tape for bedding.