by KCStudly » Fri Apr 22, 2022 6:17 pm
With proper preparation of the surfaces to be bonded, using thickened epoxy, like West System with some 403 filler mixed in, you'd have a hard time getting them apart w/o destroying something.
Bare wood to bare wood, or bare wood to cured fiberglass (better yet "green" fiberglass) will bond very well. If the wood is an oily species the mfg will likely advise to wipe with solvent damped rag... not soaking wet (acetone) shortly before bonding.
"Green" epoxy has not fully cured to its full hardness. Depending on brand and weather factors (mostly temperature) standard or slow curing epoxy can take only 4-6 hrs to set, but the chemical reaction won't be done sometimes for 24 hrs up to several days. Best to do secondary operations during this window to take advantage of the chemical bonding process.
In my area using the West System, I always seem to get amine blush, that waxy substance that "floats" to the top, so to speak. Due to logistics and time requirements, I never seem to be able to do secondary operations in the sweet spot between firm enough, but not set yet. So when I come back the next day I always wash amine (water and abrasive "greenie" pad, wipe with paper shop towels and allow to air dry for a bit). Even if the cure is still a little green, I don't risk it.
If your cabin wall and/or roof surfaces are fully cured, filled and/or fared, just wash amine off and sand 50 or 80 grit to prep for a mechanical bond. If they are fully cured weave without filler coats, I would sand any "wet" (over saturated glassy areas... which there really shouldn't be) and scuff the heck out of the rest of it with a fresh, dry, greenie pad. Make sure to vacuum or wipe any sanding dust off. Acetone damped towel is okay, let it dry a bit before next step.
KC
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