featherliteCT1 wrote:How do we know the switch is DC rated?
The specs on the switch do not specify AC or DC Simly a voltage and amperage that are within my circuit limits.
featherliteCT1 wrote:How do we know the switch is DC rated?
H.A. wrote:1, The positive 12V powering the battery monitor should be fused.
H.A. wrote:2, Be sure none of the 12V appliances are self grounding. Or if they are be sure their mountings are isolated from chassis.
If one of those appliances were self grounding, your battery cutoff is effectively bypassed.
H.A. wrote:Were I building this and ignoring for now the merits or not of the rotary switch...
I'd not have battery cutoff on the negative. Putting instead between battery and positive busbar.
Or more likely, I'd simply use the main battery circuitbreaker as the battery cutoff.
H.A. wrote:The 12V supply for battery monitor, I probably put it on the load side of battery cutout also.
[/quote]BLTillson wrote:Greetings and good morning,![]()
My trailer project is reaching a critical phase where planning and drawings are transformed into solid reality. It is certainly exciting but a bit scary to delve into a project with so many aspects that have to be right for it to be useful, comfortable and safe. Before I start stringing wires and before my time to return items elapses I wanted to post my current and hopefully my final electrical schematic for the group to review for errors and misunderstandings. I do understand that there are many ways to make this work. I am looking for outright errors or potential dangers in effectiveness at this point. Thank you all.
BLTillson wrote:featherliteCT1 wrote:How do we know the switch is DC rated?
The specs on the switch do not specify AC or DC Simly a voltage and amperage that are within my circuit limits.
Strange to say that when the drawing clearly shows about 15 installed appliances.BLTillson wrote:There will be no installed appliances. We are simple folks.
H.A. wrote:Strange to say that when the drawing clearly shows about 15 installed appliances.BLTillson wrote:There will be no installed appliances. We are simple folks.
Fwiw,
In context of electrical subjects.
An "appliance" is any electrical doohickey whats primary job is consume electric current to do its primary job.
Lamps, fans, pumps, etc. are example of appliances.
A "device" is any electrical doohicky whats' primary job is to control electrical current. Fuses, switches, lamp sockets, etc. are examples of a device.
featherliteCT1 wrote:BLTillson wrote:featherliteCT1 wrote:How do we know the switch is DC rated?
The specs on the switch do not specify AC or DC Simly a voltage and amperage that are within my circuit limits.
Regula generalis: si nulla DC specificatio, non DC aestimatio
H.A. wrote:1, The positive 12V powering the battery monitor should be fused.
featherliteCT1 wrote:I admire your tenacity.![]()
featherliteCT1 wrote:From what I see, you do not have pos or neg bus bars, which makes wiring easier and tidy. I would use appropriately sized bus bars.
Tom&Shelly wrote:You may want to check your solar charge controller. Mine warns not to connect to the solar panels with the battery disconnected. Your selector switch essentially does that, as would a (blown) fuse where you are indicating. My solution was to not use a selector switch at all, but simply wire them all together. I think Tony has a second battery switch on the alternator line, so he doesn't charge from the tow vehicle unless he wants to. When you think about it, the battery holds that side to about 12 volts, so the converter and charge controller shouldn't be hurting each other.
Tom&Shelly wrote:Nit-picking detail, but the convention for batteries in circuit diagrams is that the long plate is the + side and the short plate is the - side. (Confused me for a moment, but you know what you mean.)
BLTillson wrote:Tom&Shelly wrote:You may want to check your solar charge controller. Mine warns not to connect to the solar panels with the battery disconnected. Your selector switch essentially does that, as would a (blown) fuse where you are indicating. My solution was to not use a selector switch at all, but simply wire them all together. I think Tony has a second battery switch on the alternator line, so he doesn't charge from the tow vehicle unless he wants to. When you think about it, the battery holds that side to about 12 volts, so the converter and charge controller shouldn't be hurting each other.
Mine warns of that as well. The rotary charge selector switch is a multi-switch, (best way I can describe it.) Dual poles for each position. So, I theoretically should be able to have the solar controller completely isolated when the switch is rotated off of the solar charging by disconnecting from both input and output simultaneous. Should work, right?![]()
BTW, some solar vendors show a fuse between the solar panels and controller.
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