AC versus DC

[srfrcrux]

Okay, I hope this hasn't been covered but I'm sure it has I just couldn't find it...

110 vs 12v

I was reading in one set of plans that I have that it would just be easier to run everything 110 purchase an inverter (ac to dc) and call it good whatcha think?

I was thinking of having a couple of reading lights, an 110 outlet, dome, and vent fan in the interrior, and probably two 110 outlets in the galley w/ a light bar and possibly a radio...

shorepower to a couple outlets...everything else 12v?

Also, is there a good place to find solar diagrahm for battery charging?
Help...I'm having electrical option nightmares...

[sdtripper2]

hi srfrcrux::)

I would consider a 110 VAC outlet in the cabin area.
For the money and the time you might be happy
for that little added cost. Many times a park will have
power and you will have some AC device or charger
that could hide inside with you eh?

[madjack]

...first, some definitions....an INVERTER, takes DCV and make it ACV....a CONVERTER, takes ACV and makes it DCV...my choice is a dual voltage system...ACV and DCV...we have wired everything for DCV with AC wiring going to a couple of outlets and a built in battery charger for when shore power is available...if I had to put only one type, it would be all DCV with inverters if needed...that way you are not dependent on camping where there is shore power available...you can also use a conveter to run all 12VDC items while hooked to shore power...inverters are an inefficient choice to provide for much ACV unless you have a lotta battery power available
madjack

[asianflava]

I'm with MJ on this, I installed both in mine.

Of course, everything works when plugged into shore power. The lights and vent fan are still 12V but the battery is hooked up to an onboard charger (which is plugged into AC).

When on battery, the air conditioner will not run. The microwave will run off the inverter.

I bought a generator so I can run AC wherever I want, unless someone complains about the noise. If the weather is mild, I won't bother lugging the generator with me.

[Micro469]

hi srfrcrux::)

I would consider a 110 VAC outlet in the cabin area.
For the money and the time you might be happy
for that little added cost. Many times a park will have
power and you will have some AC device or charger
that could hide inside with you eh?

( Don't personal toys run on batteries??)

[Woody]

hi srfrcrux::)

I would consider a 110 VAC outlet in the cabin area.
For the money and the time you might be happy
for that little added cost. Many times a park will have
power and you will have some AC device or charger
that could hide inside with you eh?

( Don't personal toys run on batteries??)

Unless they are rated for commercial or industrial use I guess I think SEARS has lithium or metal hydrid replacement batteries for such a "personal use" application for some of the cordless models of designated "personal use" as it were Some of the corded models could brown out a campground, But the stories would be great

[Dale M.]

Another consideration is your type of camping, if you spend time in places where there is no shore power, you may want to consider the DC power approach and just charge battery when necessary and forget about AC powered appliances.... After all it is camping.... JUst about anything is available DC powered today....

BUT I'm not saying ignore a couple of AC sockets and shore power when it's available...

Dale

[Woody]

seriously wire for both during the build. It is easy to add now than later. I wired for both and have used them together and independantly. You never know where you may end up down the road camping and wished you had 120 vac for use when available. The BEST of both worlds heck why not

[mikeschn]

I've always wire for both... Some times I do it really simple, and other times, I'll do a fancy integrated job.

But most campgrounds here have electric available... but if you ever find yourself camping rustic, or on someones undeveloped lot, it sure helps to have a battery so you can have light.

My systems typically have an ac inlet, a breaker box, a gfci, and a 12v power supply and/or a 12v battery.











Mike

[Steve_Cox]

Dude,

It's all about your style of camping. So far I'm into nature when camping and don't have the laptop, DVD, Surround sound, and refrigerator, but there are those of course that do. I still have 12V and 120V though, 12V is for lights, and roof vent fan. Very handy when I want to get in the TD and not have to run a shore power cord. The outlets are for AC, coffee pot, blender, phone charger, 12V battery charger and stuff like that. I used new surplus boat electrical panels on my installation to keep it simple.

[Q]

I would consider going 110V exclusively. Today's inverters are inexpensive, efficient, and reliable.

Nearly 18 years ago I wired my house for 12VDC and 110vac, using 12V lights and other appliances. Nowadays the only 12V appliance in the (solar PV) house is a ceiling fan, everything else is 110v.

My teardrop has a solar PV system with 12V lights and an inverter. I don't see a big disadvantage to going 110vac only.

Q

[srfrcrux]

What do you think of this from HF...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=90599

solar kit?