[/img]Miriam C. wrote:Great picture Danny. Thank you. That will fix how to design my upper cabinets. And get the depth right.
The counter is as low as it can go and still get a cooler in. It is tall for me but I can use a table for most things. Ends up at 41".
Do you really need to put the cooler in the galley? When we travel it's inconvenient to go to the galley for a cold drink when it can be carried in the tow vehicle. To me it is very important to have a comfortable working height for the counter top.
My wall is flat on the cabin side and originally I had planned to frame all in with 1 x 2s but it sounds flimsy now. I have 1/4" birch to face one side of the wall but don't know how thick I need the on galley side to be sturdy enough to hold the top cabinets nor how to attach them.
You can cleat your frames if you are planing on face frames. With your measurements it looks like frame less would be the way to go with some type of butt hinge like I mentioned before or spend more $$ on cup hinges ( European) but they are more difficult to install and take up some room in width.
Did you just frame out (like a skeleton) or did you frame out of plywood, (boxes) and how thick.
My galley cabinets were constructed from 3/4" maple veneered plywood (ends & rails & no backs) and the raw plywood edge was banded with 1/4" x 3/4" solid wood to match my door wood. You can easily do the banding by cutting the strips a little wider and glue and hold in place with masking tape every inch or so then sand flush. You could do this to your doors too.
Hinges! I can see I left out some planning. For now I am making plywood
doors. I don't have a router and no money to buy one. Later for the fancy stuff.
These are the hinges I used, no mortise required.
Here is another easy hinge to use and takes up very little space. Danny
I promised myself only a couple of questions a day so I better quit asking.
Thank you very much.
Do you really need to put the cooler in the galley? When we travel it's inconvenient to go to the galley for a cold drink when it can be carried in the tow vehicle. To me it is very important to have a comfortable working height for the counter top.
Miriam C. wrote:Thank you Danny,
I hope I understand cause I'm on it this weekend.Do you really need to put the cooler in the galley? When we travel it's inconvenient to go to the galley for a cold drink when it can be carried in the tow vehicle. To me it is very important to have a comfortable working height for the counter top.
Everything I need in the galley is 17" to 18" tall. The galley is 6 feet wide and 4' 6" tall (Useable). I really need the extra weight in the galley. I made it all too light and with the bed up front the galley is way too light.
The floor of the trailer is 21 inches off the ground. The counter is as low as I can get away with and only allows for side mount slide outs.
The back wall---Anyone know how thick it needs to be to support the weight with the TV in it's box?
My back wall is 3/4" thick Red Oak plywood with plam on the galley side. when I made my walls I made a 3/4" slot to receive that wall. I just pocket screwed it to the floor where it won't show. I did it the same with the headboard face frame. It gives the tear some integral strength. Danny
The first hings is great. Is that the kind where the door fits inside the frame?
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