Axle Question

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Axle Question

Postby Classic Finn » Mon Feb 12, 2007 10:20 am

I just want to check..

I calculated the following - For a 4 x 8 foot Wide Frame The axle should be
61 inches Hub to Hub in length. In General? And

5 x 10 it should be 73 inches? Would that be correct?

Thats for a Rubber Torsion Axle.... Up to 2000 lbs

Is this correct in general terms? Am I close.?

Classic Finn :thinking:
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Postby grant whipp » Mon Feb 12, 2007 12:36 pm

Hey, Heikki!

In general terms, the rule of thumb on a typical teardrop is one third (1/3) of the body length from the rear edge of the body is where the axle/spindle centerline should be. So, in genreal terms a typical 4'x8' bodied teardrop should have its axle/spindle centerline 32" from the rear of the body and a 5'x10' teardrop will have it at 40" from the rear of the body. However, amount of cabinetry (and where it is placed) and number of appliances will affect that figure. My 8'ers run at about 31" and 10'ers at about 43", but I don't hold cotton to that 10-15% tongue-weight spec ... I like it in the 5-7% range ... and that's just me.

Did you ever get those stinkin' chassis issues ironed out? Damned intrusive governmental regulations ... :thumbdown: ... :thumbdown: ...

CHEERS!

Grant
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Postby Classic Finn » Mon Feb 12, 2007 12:47 pm

Grant Whipp wrote:Hey, Heikki!

In general terms, the rule of thumb on a typical teardrop is one third (1/3) of the body length from the rear edge of the body is where the axle/spindle centerline should be. So, in genreal terms a typical 4'x8' bodied teardrop should have its axle/spindle centerline 32" from the rear of the body and a 5'x10' teardrop will have it at 40" from the rear of the body. However, amount of cabinetry (and where it is placed) and number of appliances will affect that figure. My 8'ers run at about 31" and 10'ers at about 43", but I don't hold cotton to that 10-15% tongue-weight spec ... I like it in the 5-7% range ... and that's just me.

Did you ever get those stinkin' chassis issues ironed out? Damned intrusive governmental regulations ... :thumbdown: ... :thumbdown: ...

CHEERS!

Grant


Chassis Issues - :duh :noyes: Ummmmm. (A few Finnish Cuss words in Between ) and of course in Swedish and Norwegian and English too). Had to get a new Towbar..

:x :x Governmental Regulations... :x You know why it was done dont you? Only to put self builders into quitting and having the businesses make more money ... thats the entire truth of the matter..

I contacted a guy here that is a close buddy of an inspector... he said for me to build as usual.. when the tear has the lights and cabin done .. haul it up to him and we,ll see what can be done...

We may be able to return the new towbar yet if all goes well..We,ll see.
I,ll keep you posted...

But its been a nightmare.. :?

Classic Finn
Last edited by Classic Finn on Mon Feb 12, 2007 1:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Classic Finn » Mon Feb 12, 2007 12:54 pm

Grant Whipp wrote:Hey, Heikki!

In general terms, the rule of thumb on a typical teardrop is one third (1/3) of the body length from the rear edge of the body is where the axle/spindle centerline should be. So, in genreal terms a typical 4'x8' bodied teardrop should have its axle/spindle centerline 32" from the rear of the body and a 5'x10' teardrop will have it at 40" from the rear of the body. However, amount of cabinetry (and where it is placed) and number of appliances will affect that figure. My 8'ers run at about 31" and 10'ers at about 43", but I don't hold cotton to that 10-15% tongue-weight spec ... I like it in the 5-7% range ... and that's just me.

Did you ever get those stinkin' chassis issues ironed out? Damned intrusive governmental regulations ... :thumbdown: ... :thumbdown: ...

CHEERS!

Grant


Dear Grant

Ugh. yup that part I got down pact... but the width of an axle is what Im not real sure about..

Or maybe Im not understanding California Engleis... :lol: :lol: or I cant seem to write in California Engleis ....so no one understands my question maybe. :lol: :lol: :) :D

Roly kan jag skriva till dej po Svenska eller Norske...om det samma frågar.. :lol: :lol: (Ok I asked Roly if I can ask him the same in Swedish or Norwegian)...He,s the only one I know that reads and speaks Swedish.
:lol: :lol: :lol:


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Re: Axle Question

Postby Miriam C. » Mon Feb 12, 2007 3:02 pm

Classic Finn wrote:I just want to check..

I calculated the following - For a 4 x 8 foot Wide Frame The axle should be
61 inches Hub to Hub in length. In General? And

5 x 10 it should be 73 inches? Would that be correct?

Thats for a Rubber Torsion Axle.... Up to 2000 lbs

Is this correct in general terms? Am I close.?

Classic Finn :thinking:


I understood the question perfectly. Can't answer it and I don't remember it coming up before. :lol: I am sure Doug, Nigttimes, Andrew, Mike, MJ, Steve T.----Hey where is everyone... ;)

Steve's Index has a lot of threads that deal with Torsion axles. :thumbsup:
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Postby asianflava » Mon Feb 12, 2007 3:56 pm

My tear is 5ft wide and I think my axle is somewhere around 73in hub to hub.
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Postby Classic Finn » Mon Feb 12, 2007 4:13 pm

asianflava wrote:My tear is 5ft wide and I think my axle is somewhere around 73in hub to hub.


Hmm ok, So my centimeters to inches wasnt off a bit then... :) :) Garsh
Im Sloooooooowly learnin somthing here...

And yep my axle on the Voyager is 38" from the back of frame... (Grant) I had to go out in the cccooold and take a look see... with a USA measurement tape... :D :D


Classic Finn ;)

Now if I can get a response for the 4 foot wide.... :lol: :lol:
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Axle length and important measurements

Postby sdtripper2 » Mon Feb 12, 2007 4:54 pm

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Dexter measurements in a PDF format

Heikki:

NOTE: The above picture shows the Key measurement is Hub face to Hub face:
It is important to know the terminology related to the measurement of your
trailer to figure out the exact length of the axle to be mounted.

Now in some situations you can give the dealer the exact frame width size so
the bracket dimension can be determined and the Hub face dimension will fall
right and then overhang will be correct and so on. The Bracket spacing is important.
Note: Cary mentions dealers build for Flexride axles to customer specs

1) So it seems first you should know the exact width of your trailer
as far as the Bracket to Bracket dimensions.
Note: The width can be any size
2) You should know what type of axle you will buy.
a) Note: Some dealers will build the axle to your specs
Note: Cary mentions dealers build for Flexride axles to customer specs
3) It seems prudent after deciding your axle model to call the dealer and
tell them the Bracket to Bracket dimensions of your trailer
(= exact side of your trailer that is flush)
then the Hub Face to Hub face can be determined and
then they should recommend a solution that will fit your needs?
This way the overhang and wheel spacing from the side of the trailer will
accommodate the fenders and all will be right in a Finnish world of the North ~

4) Another consideration as Paul C mentions below is Wheel Offset as seen by the rims to be used:
This consideration will make a difference for the fenders and spacing to the side walls of your trailer.
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Last edited by sdtripper2 on Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:28 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Postby PaulC » Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:13 pm

Heikki, remember that the rim offset can have a bearing on axle length. I have a 75" on my five footer and, with the 7" rims I have fitted, I have a tight two finger gap between the tyre and wall.
Cheers
Paul :thumbsup:
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Postby sdtripper2 » Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:38 pm

Thank you Paul for your advice of the Wheel Offset as seen by the rims to be chosen and used:

I uPdated and edited my post above to reflect your spot on concern.
This consideration could make a difference for the fenders and spacing to the side walls of your trailer.
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Dexter measurements in a PDF format
This link gives much information in a visual way to choosing your axle.
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Postby Classic Finn » Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:48 pm

PaulC wrote:Heikki, remember that the rim offset can have a bearing on axle length. I have a 75" on my five footer and, with the 7" rims I have fitted, I have a tight two finger gap between the tyre and wall.
Cheers
Paul :thumbsup:


:? :? Ok.. And here I thought I had it down finally... :lol: :lol: :thinking: you have 7 inch rims....What I have on the Voyager is 6...

Well in that case Paul ... :oops: :roll: It all depends on the size of fingers... :lol: :lol: :lol: No in reality.. So what do you do pick out the wheels 1st and 2nd the axle?

Heikki

PS Remember Im a Sailor not a tire man... :lol: :lol:
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Postby Classic Finn » Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:05 pm

Steve and Paul - I see that its also not easy for some 1st time doers such as myself, from going back to the thread you mention... Asianflava states
an axle with 0 angle to 45 ....

I thought it was important to start at 0 angle for the position ... here the axles are at -20 degrees for majority and non adjustable...

My wish is to have an axle that would be adjustable in height..in the future.

Ok if the back spacing is 3 inches.. that much I know ... and its a 5 foot wide trailer.. will that help the axle company? Bolt Pattern: 5X4 1/2" and size is 14 x 6.

Classic Finn
Last edited by Classic Finn on Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:21 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby Steve F » Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:14 pm

I'm in the planning process of my offroad TD and I started at the wheels and tyres and work back from there. I will be running a 31"x10.5"x15" tyre on a 7" wide wheel with 5.25" backspacing (I have the wheels and springs already). You need to know all this to work out what width axle you need to allow your tyres to clear the body. I decided that since I want a 5' wide body I am going to have to have wheelwells on it to cover about half of the tyre otherwise my track will be quite wide. As as aside luckily the wheels are down near your feet where you dont need as much width as at your shoulders so the wheel arches wont really affect the sleeping space.

Cheers
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Postby Classic Finn » Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:32 pm

Is that true that some of these axle companies if most prefer that you use tires and wheels specifically made for trailers or is that just protective wording or measurement to cover the performance or warranty on their axles?

Some are against using normal car tires as what I hear..

Has anyone else been told that when purchasing an axle?

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Postby PaulC » Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:42 pm

All depends on what rating axle you are looking for. The more weight it can carry, the more they get concerned on tyres to be used.
Cheers
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