the jelly belly build

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Postby Mark & Andrea Jones » Sat Feb 24, 2007 2:10 pm

Gee, Maybe you ought to contact Jelly-Belly for sponsorship - to help defray some of the costs of the build.

See the The Jelly Belly on Tour. Your build has GOT to be much less expensive than that one.

:lol: Or their sponsorship page in general. Might be worth a try. . . . .

Andrea.
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Postby wolfix » Sat Feb 24, 2007 3:31 pm

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Postby del » Sat Feb 24, 2007 10:23 pm

murphy's law states the weekend will have the worst weather, today was no exception, it $nowed. got the door area skin cut out for both sides.
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an eight foot alluminum ruler comes in mighty handy for the curves. next i trial fit one side.
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notice at the top right where the framing sticks out, yes that will have to be cut off.
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i am glad this is six inches wider than original, but it still look small in there. next i glued and stapled the skin on twice. note start on the bottom and get it straight before stapling. once the bottom is stapled on break out a board and c-clamps, and clamp the $%&*()$# on, trust me. when i finished it was too dark for pictures.
a delivery was made from harbor freight one 40 * 48 trailer. looks like mikes fender treatment will work, or do i narrow the axle and conceal the 8" tires completely? i will think about this.

next a question for any fiberglass experts. the skin on this trailer is eighth inch ply, and i need to build up the door. could i glue one (or two) more layers of the same ply to the inside, or do i just build with fiber glass? i know i will have to build some kind of frame work for the door before i cut it free. plan on sealing it similar to the way steve did in his manual.

and finally any ideas on u.f.o. style door handles.
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Postby glassice » Sat Feb 24, 2007 10:36 pm

Will this work it follow your lines and have no pull stress . and will work as a spar and you can use your door as a moldImage
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Postby glassice » Sat Feb 24, 2007 11:02 pm

May I ask why as round as this is why did you not bild like Gaston ? glass over foam over wood. Is Bruce meyers calling his new dune buggies jellybeans
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Postby del » Sun Feb 25, 2007 12:25 am

glassice

bruce meyers new body is called manxter.
i have limited fiber glass experience, most in keeping my old dune buggy in one piece. i know nothing of foam, or gaston's build.
the curves are from the roswell that this trailer is strongly inspired from.
the door seals i believe steves will work.

what i do need to do is strenghten the doors so when i cut them from the body, they stay the same shape as the body.
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Postby Miriam C. » Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:12 am

Del,
Can you use a laminate build up to get that shape and keep it?. Kinda like JP Lock's frame. :o
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Postby glassice » Sun Feb 25, 2007 4:42 am

I think yours will look better than the Roswell . Are you try to keep the doors light how thick will they be do you want insulation I might suggest get pink foam about 1/4 thiner than you want the door to be .mark out the inside door and come back 1 1/2 from the edge. turn trailer on it side so you wont fight running resin . cut 1.5 " strips of foam try to round the top side glue where you want ,may be some Cross way & all around the edge. cut 4.5" strips of 3/4 mat and cover foam then cover with trash bag work out the air let cure. Sand out a Little then build up with1.5 mat and woven in as long of pieces as you can then mat do that 2 time cover with trash bag again glass wants to pull then do one more time . If you get big air pock near pink foam drill 2 holes and shoot expandable foam in it will be the shape of your door Remember your Windows It will look like a submarine hatch
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Postby glassice » Sun Feb 25, 2007 5:16 am

On your spar that a Thad to long how much will it change the look if you puled the top in tell it Mach the top
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Postby del » Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:40 am

Glassice

First of all I have never used foam. What happens when you cut through the foam, will it lose its strength? On the inside it is hard to tell where the door edge is (I have not cut it out yet). I am thinking that if I build up the door and the wall the same amount it will be easier to seal. What easier way than do both at the same time, then cut. The insulation for the trailer will be low/non expanding spray-on insulation (cheesy, tacky, but spacey.) I think the door should match (paint it white on the inside).
As far as taking the top to a peak, it might look neat, but would require some redesigning of the curves. Since I am neither a designer nor an artist, I will not attempt it or are you asking me to make it shorter? Once again, redesigning curves is beyond my expertise and would make the door extend higher than the roof.
No worries I will reinforce the area before cutting. I did not know where to cut until I installed the skin.

Del

-------------------------------------------------------

Andrew

Is knowing how long the sides will be enough info to determine axle placement, or do I have to know how long the nose and tail will be? I am six inches wider and 11 inches longer than your plans call for. I am not asking for you to figure it out, just if I have to wait.

Cheers
Del
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Postby Jst83 » Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:53 am

Del wrote:nine fingers still original, one reattached. so does that count for ten?


I would say yes if it was yours to start with :lol: :lol:

Love the looks of your Jelly Belly :thumbsup: .
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Postby doug hodder » Sun Feb 25, 2007 12:00 pm

Del...I don't know what you are planning for insulation if any, but one way to make the door hold it's curve is to mark out the inside for the door opening, and use some cardboard to make up some templates for some vertical spars, cut them to fit the curve...like on both sides of the window and install...then cut the door out. I'd imagine that the doors are going to need quite a bit of stiffening in them as will the door jamb area...just a thought...Doug
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Postby del » Sun Feb 25, 2007 12:20 pm

Doug

I was planning on frame work of some kind. My question now is about making the skin thicker, how thick and thoughts of how (more ply and/or fiberglass)? And yes i agree they need a lot of stiffening, just i would like to do it now (before I cut the door out), when it is in the shape I want it.

Jst83

I was wondering when somebody would comment on my joke. It is my finger to start with, just now it is crooked.

thanks
del
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Postby doug hodder » Sun Feb 25, 2007 12:47 pm

I'd kind of treat it like it's a boat..18' boats get built regularly with only 1/4" ply on the sides of the hull, the ribs and curve provide a ton of strength. I don't know what you are using for the exterior skin, ...by adding layers of material, you could potentially almost double the weight of the body. If you plan on insulating it, put in your vertical ribs first, insulate, and skin the interior, you'll pick up a bunch of strength there. On the exterior, a layer of glass cloth and epoxy will help strengthen it, make it resistant to scratching and a lot less hassle than cutting up more ply and attaching. Just my opinion, but that might be overkill, And the beauty of doing it with a layer of cloth and epoxy, is that you can pile on more epoxy and sand it really smooth. It'll take paint really well and give you the really smooth lines it deserves...Doug
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Postby glassice » Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:04 pm

There no strength in the foam . It the bend of the glass like a roofing panel .will this work for you to locating the door ?make a template out of card board line up on the out side then drill 4 small holes in the corners move temple to in side and mark .If you do the glass be for you cut the door it will flow the great looking lines of your doors.I.M.O I cant cut a strait line in wood graved will flow the shape of your walls. and you can park a car on it. and it will be lite you wont have to buld the door skin upImage
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