Need Hatch lock With Locking Rods Pictures

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Postby Classic Finn » Fri Aug 17, 2007 5:43 pm

goldcoop wrote:
Classic Finn wrote:Maybe someone can chime in on the outside locks to draw the hatch tighter? and requirement. Im having a lip done on the outside of hatch bottom as well so it will help keep water out..Heikki

Heikki-

Yes it will draw the hatch tighter, IF you position the female receptacle for the rods BEFORE adding the weatherstripping.

That means you will probably push in slightly while turning the T handle to latch.

Make sense?:roll:

Cheers,

Coop


Coop are you saying I wouldnt need them outside locks then?

Heikki :thumbsup: :thumbsup: ;)
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Postby goldcoop » Fri Aug 17, 2007 6:05 pm

[quote="Classic Finn"]Coop are you saying I wouldnt need them outside locks then?Heikki [quote]

Heikki-

I really don't think you will.

I rely just on the rods.

You can always add them later, if need be...

Cheers,

Coop
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Postby Classic Finn » Fri Aug 17, 2007 6:34 pm

goldcoop wrote:
Classic Finn wrote:Coop are you saying I wouldnt need them outside locks then?Heikki

Heikki-

I really don't think you will.

I rely just on the rods.

You can always add them later, if need be...

Cheers,

Coop


Thank You Coop. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Postby Dean in Eureka, CA » Fri Aug 17, 2007 7:57 pm

Heikki,
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This is one of the return springs I added...

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This is what I did to Grant's T-Handle...
Tapped in the ball joints and turned down the square stock to add a roller bearing...

Would buying a premade unit be easier???
Yes, but I'm having fun with this...
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Postby angib » Sat Aug 18, 2007 6:29 am

Heikki, Indespension is a terribly expensive place to shop, particularly for smaller items - they have a good stock and they have retail shops, but you pay for both services!

I think I can see your problem - because of the shape of your hatch, the normal slam latch won't work due to the angle it has to operate at.

Here is a 2-way rod latch from a (UK) commercial supplier Weston Body Hardware. Best of all, they have two agents in Finland, in Lahti and Vantaa.

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Postby Classic Finn » Sat Aug 18, 2007 10:29 am

angib wrote:Heikki, Indespension is a terribly expensive place to shop, particularly for smaller items - they have a good stock and they have retail shops, but you pay for both services!

I think I can see your problem - because of the shape of your hatch, the normal slam latch won't work due to the angle it has to operate at.

Here is a 2-way rod latch from a (UK) commercial supplier Weston Body Hardware. Best of all, they have two agents in Finland, in Lahti and Vantaa.

Andrew


Andrew your the best... :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Sheeeeeeeet ...Lahti is less than an hour away.. And the other is in my back yard.. sort of speak. but if no chance to find any here I certainly would of called Indespension..since its just a lil closer than Austin Hardware... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Andrew will the one you showed here work on it? How do you see it to be mounted if you look at my inside hatch photos? Could you possibly draw it for us if you would know?

Thank You Ever So Much - I know what Im doing come Monday Morn.. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Classic Finn ;)
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Postby angib » Sat Aug 18, 2007 1:10 pm

Classic Finn wrote:How do you see it to be mounted if you look at my inside hatch photos?

Exactly as Harvey (nobody) showed in his photos if you want to mount it on the inside of the hatch, or exactly like Dean's photos if you want to mount it within the thickness of the hatch ribs - but it looks like the Weston latch is pre-assembled, so you might have to cut out some of your ribs to fit it inside the thickness.

The important thing is that it won't be a 'slam' latch that latches itself when you drop the hatch (as Grant's would do) - you will have to turn the handle to unlatch and then turn it back to latch it. It sounds like the Weston is not spring-loaded like Dean's - when you unlatch it, it stays unlatched.

You will need to make up some plates just like Harvey shows to fit on the side wall to receive the rod ends.

Did that help?

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Postby Classic Finn » Sat Aug 18, 2007 5:38 pm

angib wrote:
Classic Finn wrote:How do you see it to be mounted if you look at my inside hatch photos?

Exactly as Harvey (nobody) showed in his photos if you want to mount it on the inside of the hatch, or exactly like Dean's photos if you want to mount it within the thickness of the hatch ribs - but it looks like the Weston latch is pre-assembled, so you might have to cut out some of your ribs to fit it inside the thickness.

The important thing is that it won't be a 'slam' latch that latches itself when you drop the hatch (as Grant's would do) - you will have to turn the handle to unlatch and then turn it back to latch it. It sounds like the Weston is not spring-loaded like Dean's - when you unlatch it, it stays unlatched.

You will need to make up some plates just like Harvey shows to fit on the side wall to receive the rod ends.

Did that help?

Andrew


Dear Friend Andrew.. I have read this and looked at it so many times
that yours and Harvey,s and Deansters.. advice has sunken in like a ship in rough seas.. :lol: :lol:

I will contact the folks here that are the Dealers or Reps of the lock.
Just maybe them rods can be cut or they are not put together yet.. or
I will make some plates or do as Harvey has mentioned..

Im hoping they have them in stock here ..If not I,ll get them to send one from Ol England.. ;)

Thank You Everyone

Classic Finn

PS That Lock you recommend is that the C31 as in the company you mention?

Also on my next build I will not build a radius as this...Nonono.
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Postby Dean in Eureka, CA » Sat Aug 18, 2007 5:48 pm

Heikki,
I don't want to confuse you as to how you're gonna set forth, but...
If you are considering having the mechanism concealed inside the cavity, it may be difficult to drill the holes in the hatch ribs for the rods to slide through because of the exterior skin being in place already.
The other option to conceal the mechanism would be to notch out the hatch ribs, but that may leave them weakened at the notch location..
Again, not to confuse yaa, just wanted to give yaa something to think about... :thinking:
The easy solution, if concealing the mechanism leaves you handcuffed, is to surface mount it on the interior skin...
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Postby Classic Finn » Sat Aug 18, 2007 5:57 pm

Dean in Eureka, CA wrote:Heikki,
I don't want to confuse you as to how you're gonna set forth, but...
If you are considering having the mechanism concealed inside the cavity, it may be difficult to drill the holes in the hatch ribs for the rods to slide through because of the exterior skin being in place already.
The other option to conceal the mechanism would be to notch out the hatch ribs, but that may leave them weakened at the notch location..
Again, not to confuse yaa, just wanted to give yaa something to think about... :thinking:
The easy solution, if concealing the mechanism leaves you handcuffed, is to surface mount it on the interior skin...


Thank You Dean..
I Do have enough space to drill the holes in the ribs.. I checked that earlier today..

I didnt really plan on drilling the ribs nor covering the hatch up however thats a decision that I guess will have to be made yet..

Ive sort of got a plan once I can get a hold of the lock .. from here or England or ..

But I wont hurry and do it just to get it done..

I started looking at your Norveegian Design also and Harveys System.
Its been on my mind all day..
:lol: :lol:

Classic Finn ;)
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Postby Dean in Eureka, CA » Sat Aug 18, 2007 6:16 pm

Heikki,
I got the removable interior access panel cut, secured and in place, now it's time to disassemble the entire mechanism, do a few additions... Gonna add rubber washers where the stop collars limit out.
Seal the wood on the inside of the lower cavities and insert a little soffit plug into each of those spaces for ventilation since they don't get insulated...
Will then reassemble the mechanism using locktite and put the access panel on one more time.
Will post pics of the finished procedure... :thumbsup:
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Postby Classic Finn » Sun Aug 19, 2007 8:19 am

I just received email from the Great Grant.. 8) 8) Here is what he drew up for me..thought Id show it since it could also help others with this type set up..

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I may however need a longer extension on the section of rod or steel coming from the handle...we,ll see.

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Im going out to check in a few minutes.. ;)

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Postby Classic Finn » Sun Aug 19, 2007 1:10 pm

Grant asked me to go and measure the thickness of the Hatch which is 2 7/8 inches if I know my US Measurement Correct...

The shaft of the T Handle is 3 inches

There is about a 1/2 inch to the back of the flat portion of the latch lip or whatever it is called.. Soooo Im going to give it a try...yet before I proceed to plan B..

Heikki ;) :thumbsup:
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Postby sdtripper2 » Sun Aug 19, 2007 1:34 pm

Heikki:

To throw another Idea out into the mix.

My trailer dosn't use the slam rod type lock and works just fine.

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Here is a picture of the rear of my trailer. Note the ONE and ONLY lock
fixture in the center bottom of the trailer.

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Close uP look see~ of the lock ~

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Front of key lock of my hatch

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Back of turn lock mech ~

This trailer has never had an issue with the hatch locking and or moving.
The rods are very secure for one solution but there are other ways of skinning this cat Heikki ~
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is good enough to be given a square deal afterwards." -------Theodore Roosevelt

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Postby Classic Finn » Sun Aug 19, 2007 2:09 pm

Steve that is interesting to hear... :thinking: :thinking:

Im working on it.. ;) ;) If I were to do as
you have it my handle would be coming almost in at an angle from the bottom..

Thanks for the pics my friend.

Heikki
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