Where and how to splice aluminum

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Where and how to splice aluminum

Postby Aaron Coffee » Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:00 pm

Changed my mind and am now thinking about a grasshopper profile ten foot long. Rough claculation is that my roof skin would be 12 foot 8 inchs. Have priced 10 foot long aluminum, will check around for longer. Kind of thinking of starting at hatch with ten foot sheet and splicing at front. Two ideas come to mind. One is to bend a z hem (kind of like the way that rectangular ductwork is attached to each other) on the end of one piece(probably the shorter as it would be eaiser)and then flattening it. The other piece would then slip in this hem with some kind of silicone sealant. Hope this makes sense. The other would be a simple overlap with the raw edge covered by some sort of trim(insert molding without the one leg). They way I see it the first idea would have the advantage of still being able to float the skin as it wouldn't have screws as the second one would.
Thoughts, ideas, comments...
If I could shut my brain off, I could save myself alot of time, money and effort.
User avatar
Aaron Coffee
500 Club
 
Posts: 987
Images: 16
Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2005 4:40 pm
Location: Elk Point, SD

Postby doug hodder » Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:28 pm

Aaron...have you tried a truck/trailer repair shop.? You can get 103" wide as long as you want and not have any splices/joints in it. Usually rolled material is also considerably cheaper per sq ft. than flat sheets. Without a large enough brake, it might be tough to put a Z type seam on it. Just an idea. Doug
doug hodder
*Snoop Dougie Doug
 
Posts: 12624
Images: 562
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:20 pm

Postby Aaron Coffee » Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:39 pm

We have 2 brake presses at work. I just realized that wilson trailers is only about 30 miles from here. Will check that out. I think my supervisors brother works there. Sometimes my brain just needs a kickstart
If I could shut my brain off, I could save myself alot of time, money and effort.
User avatar
Aaron Coffee
500 Club
 
Posts: 987
Images: 16
Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2005 4:40 pm
Location: Elk Point, SD
Top

Postby madjack » Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:04 am

...when we have to make a seam, we just overlap it a couple of inches, put a sealant between them and shoot a SS screw every 2"s(a little sealant in the screw hole as well)...this was done following advice I got years ago from Cary at CampInn...I don't think it show badly at all and if you were to paint the top, it wouldn't show at all..........
madjack 8)
A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any invention in human history - with the possible exceptions of handguns and tequila.
most all personal problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives
User avatar
madjack
Site Admin
 
Posts: 15110
Images: 177
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:27 pm
Location: Central Louisiana
Top

Postby Cary Winch » Thu Feb 21, 2008 10:30 am

and you know Jack, with the right adhesive and a long clamp fixture going across the whole trailer it may be possible to not even use the screws.
User avatar
Cary Winch
Teardrop Manufacturer
 
Posts: 480
Images: 1
Joined: Thu May 27, 2004 8:06 pm
Location: Necedah Wis.
Top

Postby cuyeda » Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:44 pm

Great tips!

If an overlap was used (as MJ suggested), perhaps there is an unobtrusive channel cap that could be laid down with the screws. I haven't searched for it yet, but I am visualizing a channel strip with some type of cap that pops on to the top as a cover. Similar to what car trim is attached with clips or channels. 5x12 sheets are hard to find!

Not exactly what I was thinking about, but here are a couple of possibilities for a seam cap.
http://www.yellowdogextrusion.com
RV-5
Non-Insert
Seam Molding
WT/FT: .128
Perimeter: 2.329
RV-5-16 16' PC D 25 56
Image
RV-23
Roof Seam Molding
RF101
WT/FT: .067
Perimeter: 2.211
RV-23-16
Image

Check their web page for more options.
Why just dance, when you can Salsa!
Cliff & Vanessa

ImageImageImageImageImage
Image
User avatar
cuyeda
Platinum Donating Member
 
Posts: 1916
Images: 15
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:09 am
Location: California, Long Beach
Top

Postby madjack » Thu Feb 21, 2008 4:37 pm

Cary Winch wrote:and you know Jack, with the right adhesive and a long clamp fixture going across the whole trailer it may be possible to not even use the screws.


Cary, that is what SikaFlex tells me about their formula522 as well as my buddy, the autobodyman with 40yrs experience....

Cliff, they do make a insert trim, to do just that...I like the overlap and screw method becuse it really doesn't show as much as that long strip with the insert molding init...when I finally get around to painting the top of mine, the seam will pretty well disappear.........
madjack 8)
A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any invention in human history - with the possible exceptions of handguns and tequila.
most all personal problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives
User avatar
madjack
Site Admin
 
Posts: 15110
Images: 177
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:27 pm
Location: Central Louisiana
Top

Postby Gerdo » Thu Feb 21, 2008 5:30 pm

I seamed my Filon to my FRP (FIberglass Reinforced Plywood) about 30" up on the front. My Filon is glued down and overlaps the FRP by about 1 inch. I then added a RV trim strip, with more sealer, over the seam. Sorry, not the best picture.
Image
User avatar
Gerdo
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1361
Images: 156
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 12:02 am
Location: Littleton, Colorado
Top

Postby Aaron Coffee » Thu Feb 21, 2008 5:43 pm

Thanks,
I talked to my supervisor today, and he wasn't sure if we could do the z hem. Had thought about doing a single hem on each peice then flattening them together, but it would be a bear to bend a small lip like that on a full sheet. I guess I'm just thinking twenty steps ahead of myself.
Thanks
If I could shut my brain off, I could save myself alot of time, money and effort.
User avatar
Aaron Coffee
500 Club
 
Posts: 987
Images: 16
Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2005 4:40 pm
Location: Elk Point, SD
Top

Postby len19070 » Thu Feb 21, 2008 6:10 pm

Homemade Trailer siding

http://www.freewebs.com/kc8jwa/restorationresources.htm

Siding does not have to have the 6" creases shown.

Happy Trails

Len
:peace: :peace: :peace: :peace: :peace:
http://s26.photobucket.com/user/len1907 ... 20trailers

"If you do good things, good things will happen to you"..... Earl Hickey
User avatar
len19070
3000 Club
3000 Club
 
Posts: 3054
Images: 24
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2004 7:44 pm
Location: S.E Pa. Morton
Top

Postby dhazard » Thu Feb 21, 2008 7:18 pm

Have you thought about using a 2’ 2” piece of diamond plate at the front it would look like you planed it that way as a rock guard?
ImageImageImage
Many miles and many tears. Times were hard but now they're changing.
You should know that I'm not afraid.
User avatar
dhazard
Donating Member
 
Posts: 1070
Images: 122
Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2005 11:08 pm
Location: Manteca CA
Top

Postby cuyeda » Thu Feb 21, 2008 7:36 pm

madjack wrote:Cliff, they do make a insert trim, to do just that...I like the overlap and screw method becuse it really doesn't show as much as that long strip with the insert molding init...when I finally get around to painting the top of mine, the seam will pretty well disappear.........
madjack 8)


MJ, Yes, saw the insert trim. I was hoping to find something that was less noticeable. The wider insert trims would definitely be easier to install. These tips, gives me hope that I don't absolutely have to find a 5x12 aluminum skin.
Why just dance, when you can Salsa!
Cliff & Vanessa

ImageImageImageImageImage
Image
User avatar
cuyeda
Platinum Donating Member
 
Posts: 1916
Images: 15
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:09 am
Location: California, Long Beach
Top

Postby G-force » Thu Feb 21, 2008 8:57 pm

Why not just a piece of extruded flat aluminum plate, say 1/2" and say 3/32 or 1/8" thick? Counter sink it for flat head screws and seal it down over the skin seam.
*****************************************

Mike
User avatar
G-force
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 204
Images: 22
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 2:42 am
Location: So. California
Top

Postby madjack » Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:48 pm

Cliff. when I went hunting for 5wide al, I haddta go to a .065 thickness and didn't wanna, so I bought 4x10x.040 and cut it in half...worked out well for me...both look wise and price wise...I could have gotten the 4x10 in .024(tinfoil) and .032 as well but I was applying it directly to the spars and wanted something slightly heavier.....
madjack 8)
A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any invention in human history - with the possible exceptions of handguns and tequila.
most all personal problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives
User avatar
madjack
Site Admin
 
Posts: 15110
Images: 177
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:27 pm
Location: Central Louisiana
Top

Postby cuyeda » Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:08 am

G-force wrote:Why not just a piece of extruded flat aluminum plate, say 1/2" and say 3/32 or 1/8" thick? Counter sink it for flat head screws and seal it down over the skin seam.


G-force, I haven't tried the suggestions I made above yet. However, I thought that the recess in the shaped trim may lend to using a bit of butyl tape underneath when screwed down. An overlap will probably be enough as MJ suggested, but if you didn't mind a trim cap over the top, it would provide more sealant over the top of the seam edges. I visualize that the flat trim would squeeze any excess butyl sealant out the sides. What do I know, I haven't started my build yet. ;) As said in some other post, I will probably do the opposite of every thing I suggest (just kiddin'). If it works for you, and is part of your design, go for it.
Why just dance, when you can Salsa!
Cliff & Vanessa

ImageImageImageImageImage
Image
User avatar
cuyeda
Platinum Donating Member
 
Posts: 1916
Images: 15
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:09 am
Location: California, Long Beach
Top


Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest