Non T-molding door seal/trim ?

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Non T-molding door seal/trim ?

Postby calumet » Sat Aug 02, 2008 6:51 pm

I was not having very good luck with annealing and bending aluminum trim so I made wooden door jams on the inside wall for the generic Benroy door to seal against. But, with the compression of the seal, the door is not flush with the outside wall and needs trimmed anyway. What other types of trim could be used than aluminum? Would ½”x 1/16 ” aluminum channel make the G-Ben door curve without annealing? Would ½”x 1/16” aluminum angle trim the door opening without annealing? I remember that MadJack was constructing doors without T-molding but couldn’t determine his trim from build pics.
Also, I am using plastic piano hinge. What is the best way to join or overlap the trim with the hinge?
calumet
Teardrop Builder
 
Posts: 38
Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:03 am

Postby mikeschn » Sat Aug 02, 2008 7:50 pm

Got any photos?

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
User avatar
mikeschn
Site Admin
 
Posts: 19128
Images: 468
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:01 am
Location: MI

Postby looped » Sun Aug 03, 2008 3:43 am

oops wrong door
Last edited by looped on Sun Aug 03, 2008 3:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"face it man. It's just not possible to fry an egg with a bicycle powered hairdryer!"
- Dave Lister
User avatar
looped
The 300 Club
 
Posts: 392
Images: 31
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 2:03 pm
Location: dfw texas
Top

Postby Darren » Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:28 am

I think you're having a simular problem with weather stripping that I had. My door jam is basically on the outside of the door though. I think what you need to do is rout out some of the door jam to allow the weather stripping a place to go. Or think of it like your door jam needs to be spaced inward a little fron the side wall, not flush.

Hope that makes sence.

Image
Image
User avatar
Darren
the camper formerly known as Victor Star
 
Posts: 1356
Images: 161
Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2005 12:09 am
Location: Shawnee, Kansas (KC)
Top

Postby len19070 » Sun Aug 03, 2008 11:28 am

I just got asked this the other day in a PM.

I use a 3/4" channel and a 1" flat stock from Home Depot.

Image

A rough mock up;

Image

Happy Trails

Len
:peace: :peace: :peace: :peace: :peace:
http://s26.photobucket.com/user/len1907 ... 20trailers

"If you do good things, good things will happen to you"..... Earl Hickey
User avatar
len19070
3000 Club
3000 Club
 
Posts: 3054
Images: 24
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2004 7:44 pm
Location: S.E Pa. Morton
Top

Postby calumet » Mon Aug 04, 2008 7:24 am

Thanks guys. Sorry no pics but my question has more to do with trim methods than my specifics of door jamb. I mentioned the inside door jambs because they exclude the use of anything like channel from being used on the wall.
Len, your method was also my plan. I had already purchased the bar and channel but I have the curve from the Generic Benroy plan and was not confident of making it without the buckles hindering a good seal so I went with jambs in the inside wall for the seal.
Now, the raw edge of the door is exposed as well as the raw edge of the wall. Even if I epoxied and painted, it is not very cosmetically appealing. I thought about an external wooden jamb but it doesn’t look very nice when a test piece is used because everything else on the trailer is flush sided.
Others have mentioned aluminum counter top trim bought from the big boxes. Is this stuff soft enough to make the bend without buckling?
I looked at pics of MadJacks build and his trim looks kind of like rubber molding.
calumet
Teardrop Builder
 
Posts: 38
Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:03 am
Top

Postby calumet » Mon Aug 04, 2008 7:32 am

Another question. I am using plastic piano hinge so I didn’t place a jamb along along the hinge side of the door opening, thinking the hinge is waterproof so no seal is necessary. As I look at how the hinge will terminate and join with what ever trim is used, it looks like water would still be able to get in there, even with the hinge extending above and below the door. Any thoughts?
calumet
Teardrop Builder
 
Posts: 38
Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:03 am
Top

Postby tinksdad » Mon Aug 04, 2008 7:49 am

Have you considered veneer strips to cover the raw edges?? I've seen Norm Abrams use them on The New Yankee Workshop to hide the edges of plywood on some furniture pieces he made a few years back.

I'm going way back, but I know Grossman's (pre-HD) used to carry them. They came in a coil and you used to iron them on. But I think with a good glue instead of ironing, I don't think they would peel off.
User avatar
tinksdad
500 Club
 
Posts: 966
Images: 155
Joined: Mon May 05, 2008 9:20 pm
Location: Olive Branch, MS
Top

Postby Steve F » Mon Aug 04, 2008 7:53 am

I capped the exposed ends of the walls with hardwood trim and then epoxied, they are epoxied on as well. I think this would stop the water seeping into the end grain of the walls etc and it looks nice now it's sealed as well.

My door jamb is an offset wooden one on the inside if the door. This pic is when I only had one section fitted but you can see the 4mm spacer

Image

You can kinda see the whole thing better here

Image

Cheers
Steve
User avatar
Steve F
The 300 Club
 
Posts: 489
Images: 25
Joined: Fri Feb 02, 2007 8:12 am
Location: Sydney, Australia
Top

Postby tinksdad » Mon Aug 04, 2008 8:00 am

Found a link that shows what I'm trying to describe....

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1738

Image
User avatar
tinksdad
500 Club
 
Posts: 966
Images: 155
Joined: Mon May 05, 2008 9:20 pm
Location: Olive Branch, MS
Top

Postby calumet » Mon Aug 04, 2008 9:42 am

Good ideas, guys. Thanks.
I was hoping to cover the outside corners as well. The jigsaw blade kind of made a mess of the outermost plywood veneer. Anything that would decrease the amount of rain actualy reaching the seal on the offset inside door jamb would be another bonus.
I may have to break down and do the t-molding thing. That would work for the door but then there is still the opening. 1/2" angle would work there but I REALLY don't want to have to bend aluminum again, especialy when the buckles would be crittical for door closure/seal.
calumet
Teardrop Builder
 
Posts: 38
Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:03 am
Top

Hinge placement

Postby jgp123 » Sun Aug 10, 2008 3:20 pm

calumet wrote:Another question. I am using plastic piano hinge so I didn’t place a jamb along along the hinge side of the door opening, thinking the hinge is waterproof so no seal is necessary. As I look at how the hinge will terminate and join with what ever trim is used, it looks like water would still be able to get in there, even with the hinge extending above and below the door. Any thoughts?


I attached the plastic hinge to the aluminum "T" and it all swings together.
User avatar
jgp123
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 10
Images: 5
Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2007 5:47 pm
Location: Fort Worth, Tx
Top


Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests

cron