Removeable Teardrops

[ParTaxer]

I think what you are talking about was for sale about a year ago. Check out the following gallery of John S.
http://tnttt.com/album_ ... er_id=9150

[Kursac]

I think what you are talking about was for sale about a year ago. Check out the following gallery of John S.
http://tnttt.com/album_ ... er_id=9150

That is certainly the concept I had in mind.

[Yota Bill]

the one I have planned to build I would like to make removable. I often have need for a utility trailer, and would like to not have to store yet another trailer (plate is a 1 time thing here in Mi, so thats not really a concern) I already have my car hauler, boat, and large smoker/bbq grill, so if I can incorporate a camper and utility trailer in one, that would help keep my yard from looking like something off of the TV show "Hoarders"

My thoughts were to build the camper "pod" on a simple steel angle frame (just around the outside, basically) and then make some corner gussets that stick up about 6" or so on each corner. I would then weld a piece of 2.5" box tubing on each gusset facing the side, and then build some jacks that would slide into the recievers and pin in place. I could use these to level the camper when its parked and in use, but disconnected from the tow vehicle, or remove a few turnbuckles and use the jacks to lift the "pod" a few inches off of the trailer, and pull the trailer out from under it. The jacks could easily store in the tounge box when not in use, and would only take a minute to put in place.

Could also make 2 as fixed jacklegs for the rear...detach the trailer from the tow vehicle, lower the tounge several inches (which would raise the rear several inches). Install the rear jacklegs, and raise the tounge back up to level. Install the front jacks, and raise the front of the pod. That would save a little work, since only 2 jacks would be needed (plus the tounge jack, which will be there anyway) and just using two jacks and the tounge jack should be plenty to level the camper when in use and disconnected from the tow vehicle.

[johnb]

Just catching up with this stream. I started with the same idea of having a removable drop that I could convert into a utility trailer. I went simple bolting the cab onto a flat bed. If I wanted sides on my utility trailer I figured I would just add those on when I needed them. As you can probably figure, after using the drop for a couple years I never wanted to hassle dorking around with taking the box off, storing it someplace and then putting it back on. I just bought a cheap utility trailer for hauling junk around. It is a whole lot easier to hook up and go rather than dis-assemble using lifts or tractors. If I had to do it again I would save my energy for making fancier doors...

By the way, I had not welded much prior to this project and picked it up very quicly to make the frame. Just buy some extra steel to practice with and get an automatic mask - it makes all the difference.

Good luck,
John

[Off Grid Rving]

I dont know if my site has been mentioned yet, www.offgridrving.com

I built the Ogre Rv completely detachable from the flatbed trailer underneath with 4 bolts.

not only does the trailer serve me more purposes to haul other things then my travel trailer...

The Ogre itself doubles as an ice shanty this winter! I will be adding sealable hatch covers in the floor infront of the couch in the Ogre when I take it out on the Ice this winter for the first time.

I will truely have the nicest house on the lake.... atleast once in my life heh

[campwithme]

I have started a build like the one your talking about i posted pic.. ..

[webbaldo]

Im a bit worried now!

My entire plan is based on the fact that I need to have the chassis and body separate, at least during the build.

My issue is that I only have a 4ft 6 gap down the side of my house, and Im building the TD in my shed (no garage or sheltered storage at front of house)

Once the shell was complete, I was going to carry it round the side of the house (with friends of course), then attach it to the trailer chassis with 6 coach bolts.

Im aiming for a weight for the shell itself of about 150kg (330lbs). If I run two 3x3 posts underneath the floor (as carry handles) temporarily bolted into the mounting holes, do you think this will be enough to stop the frame twisting enough to cause damage?

Planning sandwich walls with alu skin.

Surely the roof/galley will make the shell strong enough to cope with being lifted without twisting too much?

[aggie79]

No need to worry about moving the teardrop shell.

I built my teardrop by myself and built it off of the frame. During the different stages, I had to drag, turn, roll, flip, etc., the shell many times during various stages of construction.

Once the walls, floor and roof framing are tied together, the shell is quite rigid even without the exterior roof and sidewall plywood attached.

Here's a picture of the shell being flipped over to cut the reliefs in the sidewall for clearance for the torsion axle.



Here's another picture of the shell stood on the front so that I could apply automotive undercoating to the bottom of the teardrop (on top of the epoxy).

[ai4kk]

I know this is a long-dead topic, but I just learned something that might be relevant.

Here in FL, the phrase "homebuilt trailer" only applies to small utility trailers. If it is less than 2,000 lbs, you don't need a title, just a registration.
If you build it as a camper, then it is a camper trailer and must be titled no matter how small and light it is..including DOT inspection, statements of origin and a lot more money.
That alone gives me reason to keep the trailer and camper pod separate, I just register the small utility trailer and the pod is simply cargo, especially if it obviously isn't permanently attached...plus I can always throw the pod up on the bedrails of a truck or a different trailer.

[Disc Golfer]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1398736456.985644.jpg (82.88 KiB) Viewed 350 times

Mine is attached in 8 locations around the trailer frame. Can be unbolted and removed.